Direct speech: Terry Barber, chief makeup artist M.A.C UK

During London Fashion Week, Alexander Boyarskaya-Waitt questioned Terry about what's new in make-up next season, why you shouldn’t be perfect and what is more important - lips or eyes.

What is more interesting to talk about: what is happening now, or what are you doing at shows for the next season?

For me, London has already ended: I am leaving in the evening to Berlin, and in the morning from Berlin immediately to Milan. But if we talk about the present moment, then I am inspired by what I see. A lot of metal - again! Not only on the eyes, like a shadow, but on the whole face, on the skin. Metallic as a way to highlight the structure of the face with light. Highlights, light tones that emphasize or draw high cheekbones, nose, face contour. And no shadows and dark tones.

That is, not so much color, how much structure?

Yes. All these highlighters of skin tones with different textures, when the face appears smooth and matte full face, and when you turn the head you notice a super-moist effect on the cheekbones and cheeks. The contour of the face, underlined with different textures, and even color. This, in my opinion, is the most modern image for today. This is how to sculpt a sculpture, and not to paint a picture. You can just blind yourself clean face, highlight the cheekbones with light and stop.

That is, this is an advice for every day: do the minimum and that's it?

I would prefer to see something else. Another item. The skin, the face, its matte radiance plus either the eyes or the lips. The best thing is a clean face, as if washed, and red lips. In front of this, nothing should be, even carcasses. Or vice versa: face and eyes. At the same time, the lipstick should be of pure color, and the eyes are made up very minimalist too: for example, just a sure eyeliner for the upper eyelid.

English girls love false eyelashes, false hair, false nails, tanning. This all annoys me

What is more important now: lips or eyes?

It depends on how you feel now. Women tend to change during the day and even more so every day. At first, this happened to fashion - there are almost no women who would wear the same thing every day under the pretext that this is exactly what suits them the most. With makeup too. Every day you can wear something new, completely different. But, as with clothes, not all at once!

Yes, moderation and the ability to stay in cosmetics is generally such a topic for Russia ...

And here, too, do not hesitate. This is very similar to the reality show, The Only Way Is Essex. All at once. Very annoying.

And what annoys you at all? For example, false eyelashes?

Oh, English girls love false eyelashes, false hair, false nails, tanning. This is all annoying me.

So you just do not like fakes?

I have nothing against all of the above, if it is done very well and not excessively. Most often, however, it is an attempt to make of Pamela Anderson; instead of Pamela is a roadside whore. Too much bronzer. When using the 70s with it, emphasizing the shadows, and leaving freckles - that's fine. But when it is a monolithic orange spot instead of a face! What can I say. What else? Too much lip gloss. Huge false eyelashes - I like short thick eyelashes, even fake ones, in the spirit of mods - but long eyelashes with curled edges, thick and obviously fake - this is nasty. Especially on young girls.

Now the story about the beautiful collision of colors. Matched colors are very old fashioned.

But when, if not in youth, try all this and make mistakes?

Sometimes these are not mistakes, sometimes such experiences can transfer us to the 60s, to Brigitte Bardot. She was very, very rock and roll, such a slightly unkempt, relaxed goddess, queen of dry shampoo. I love Bardo. By the way, I worked a lot with Pamela Anderson, and they are somewhat similar: Pamela is also surprisingly very rock and roll. She wears almost no tonal means, she always has very clean skin and blurry eye shadow and mascara. But girls clumsily copy it, and instead of a natural tan, they have only a dark tone, instead of a light blur of make-up eyes - just sloppy.

This is not a very modern yet image, smeared mascara. What would you recommend now?

Take one element and bring it to modern perfection, choose the quintessence. I am for the liner in all its modern interpretations. Dense clear line, slightly exaggerated, as a tribute to Amy Winehouse. The make-up at the Jonathan Saunders show was such a dedication - and for good reason, because Amy summed up a whole generation of women. The second method - just eyeliner, without mascara. Very clean, very sophisticated way to make up your eyes. It is possible to make it even simpler and more refined: at the Richard Nicoll show, we simply made a small accent on the eyes on clean, moist, shining faces - we drew not a full arrow, but just its tail. They didn’t even draw, to be honest, but used ready-made special stickers.

These are two opposite stories: ideally verified cleanliness and Amy with her sweeping rock'n'roll eyes. Which direction do you prefer?

Oh, of course, dear rock and roll. Now all women want one thing: stop trying to be perfect. Slightly shiny, oily eyelid; barely noticeable, but still underlined eyeliner. Dear rock and roll. In the mood of the whole of Milan now about it. The wife and the girl is a big star. Red lipstick with clean eyelashes and slightly erased edges, nothing perfectly traced. Let the makeup remain a feeling of lightness and maximum simplicity.

What about the boyfriend himself, the rock stars? At the shows, the models are made up, but in real life?

It's cool that men are less afraid of cosmetics. The basic points - skin care, a little translucent tone - this is everyday. I would advise you to close your eyes, take a little black matte shadows and how to rub them into your eyelashes - just emphasize the look with a shadow, and not make up.

That is, in general, you can paint anything, it is not necessary to follow instructions faithfully?

And how! Now I would advise everyone to use a fuchsia lipstick on lipstick, not on lips, but on eyes - even if it does not last very long. Here is a color like your sweater. And to lighten the cheeks with shadows, and to give the desired tone to the lips with cream blushes with their natural shades.

And now what would you advise me to do? Eyes fuchsia the color of the sweater?

No way. Now the story about the beautiful collision of colors. In no case do not choose the tone of the eyeliner for clothes - let it be an unexpected color. Matched colors are very old fashioned. Make arrows - so that in pencil, careless, thick. I'll show you now.

Photos: maccosmetics.tumblr.com.

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