The Silence of the Lambs: How Animals are Used to Make Cosmetics
Margarita Virova
Last week we actively discussed the Natura Siberica relationship. with reindeer antlers - everything was resolved in favor of the animals, but the stormy discussion itself was indicative. Components of animal origin, justice for the sake of, are used in many cosmetics, and a considerable part of them is obtained by cruel methods. The times, of course, change, and with them the attitude of consumers and producers to the ethical side of the issue and respect for nature. Progressive companies seek to obtain certificates of environmental friendliness and refuse to test on animals. However, the cosmetics industry has a long-standing and strong relationship with ingredients of similar origin that cannot be quickly and easily abandoned. It is impossible to consider this problem from an unambiguous position, but we have the facts: we tell you what widely used components of modern cosmetics can be considered unethical.
Stearic acid
The use of this fatty acid is very common in the production of soaps and creams, it is often one of the main components of the tool, it is also found in candles. In general, humanity has already learned how to synthesize stearic acid, but it can also be obtained from vegetable raw materials, such as palm oil. Nevertheless, stearic acid is more often extracted from animal fats: mutton and pork fat contain about 30% of this substance. The origin of the component is not always indicated on the packages, but brands that use the ethical version of stearic acid are often written about this in open sources - check on websites and forums.
Castoreum
Aromatic substance, which is extracted from the glands of the internal secretion of beavers (animals of both sexes suffer at the same time), is popular in perfumery and traditional medicine. The beaver stream, like the infamous deer antlers, is surrounded by many claims about its inherent healing properties, however, official medicine is recognized only as an adaptogen. In the production of fragrances, the beaver stream, like amber, has long been a fixative. We draw your attention to the fact that the extraction of the beaver stream is impossible without killing the animal (for this, the glands themselves must be taken out of the body of the beaver), and poaching on this soil is not a rare practice.
Musk
The very name of this substance does not hide its origin: the word "muscus", which fell into Latin from Sanskrit, means testicles or scrotum. This secret is produced in the glands of various animals, such as civet, musk deer or muskrat deer. The musk-deer, which was slaughtered in large quantities for the sake of musk, today is listed in the Red Book, and the secret is obtained on farms from living organisms with the most humane methods (the substance must be removed from the body of the beast, but at this time it is anesthesia by all standards). Meanwhile, it is widely known in perfumery and vegetable musk, extracted from galbanum - but its flavor, however, is slightly different from the "glandular" musk of animal origin.
Collagen
Speaking about collagen, one should start with the fact that its effectiveness in cosmetics is not convincingly proven, but it continues to be present in a variety of formulations, including quite expensive and serious means. Collagen is extracted from the dermis of cattle hides, and this is the only option: when people talk about "sea" and "vegetable" collagen, they mean substances that are extracted from the skin of sea fish or from plant sources similar in properties and structure. Why is this more or less meaningless idea? Because collagen molecules are rather large, and they are simply unable to penetrate deep into the skin, although on the surface the effect of products containing collagen is often quite noticeable (as it is easy to guess, this is not for long).
Squalene
The necessary component in many creams is responsible for ensuring the integrity of the skin lipid barrier. Substance extracted from shark liver gradually fades into the past for objective reasons: in cosmetics, squalane (a synthetic analog of squalene) is no worse than natural in its properties, the same substance can be extracted from vegetable oils (for example, olive) and origin will cost much more than its ethical counterpart. But a few years ago, it was widely used by Asian manufacturers, and also continues to be used in some products with a “natural” image throughout the world.
Honey
Popular on the "organic" production, and among the brands without a natural image, honey is extracted without killing insects, but its absence in the composition is essential for opponents of the exploitation of animals in all its forms. Honey is unpretentious in interaction with other ingredients, often found in creams, soap products and a variety of shampoos and balms. For those who adhere to strict views, it is necessary to monitor the presence of honey: often even those brands that follow environmental safety do not share Vegan anger over honey and may not indicate it in the composition.
Cochineal
A cochlear bug is an insect from which the bodies of the females make the carmine dye. Today it is found not so often, but still sometimes flashes in the compositions of perfumery products and is used in the food industry. Synthetic red dye is cheaper, and production with its participation costs less effort, so carmine is still a luxury from the past. However, the tradition of the extraction of dye from cochineal is rooted, for example, in South America, so it will not be out of circulation soon.
Elastin
Another ingredient in anti-aging cosmetics is that it is paired with collagen and supports cell regeneration. Elastin continues to be extracted from the blood vessels of birds and mammals - this substance is always of animal origin. They speak about its inefficiency as often as about the inefficiency of collagen: the substance is also unable to penetrate too deeply, so that the skin receives only a superficial effect. Synthetic analogues of elastin in cosmetics and cosmetology are not found.
Caviar
Whole monomark grows on caviar extracts - in caviar there is a really unprecedented high content of substances that are also useful for the skin. And especially manufacturers of anti-aging means rustle around it. Again, they mainly talk about the magic of collagen and elastin, the production of which is enhanced by caviar derivatives. At the same time, all substances that can be found in fish roe are quite successfully obtained by synthetic means, so marketing, promising a fleur of luxury and an instantaneous obvious effect, play an important role in the popularity of cosmetics containing this component.
Snail mucin
The most popular ingredient of Asian cosmetics was discovered in Chile - the first snail cream was released in the late 90s, since then compositions and formulas were re-thought out and refined, and today it has become truly fashionable. The production of mucin is generally considered humane, but it is worth considering that no one crawls behind snails throughout the farm, collecting their regular mucus: in cosmetics, they use the secret secreted by animals under stress. To get it, the snails are shaken and rotated in special devices or scared by a bright light, and then released on their own business. Mutsin, by the way, contrary to some statements, is not a hypoallergenic substance.
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