Get into the tone: How to choose a tonal tool for skin color
Foundation cosmetics and half the success - this is the right tone foundation. You can live beautifully without it, but technical and complex makeup is difficult to imagine without a tone that allows flowers to go as clean as possible, and forms and textures do not conflict with each other. Those times when tonal resources could not be recommended for regular use are far behind. The advantages of the new formulas are more and more: many of them have an additional caring effect, in the cold season, the coating is able to protect the skin from aggressive external influences, and a wide choice of textures allows you to choose the perfect invisible assistant. Together with makeup artist and blog author Super make up Suka Gevorg, we are trying to figure out how not to make a pocket-emptying mistake, what are adjusters and how to find your perfect color.
Hue and undertone
All the basic rules of how to choose the right decorative tool can be found in the mandatory set of any beauty blog: it is recommended to determine the skin tone by the color of the veins on the wrist or by applying a white sheet to the face. These tips are not universal, so take into account the nuances is even the owners of an even and stable complexion. In addition to genetics, a number of factors affect the state and, therefore, skin color - if you take into account everything one day, you can get rid of painful searches for a long time.
There is no uniform regulation in the description of the color of the skin, so the tonal resources are sold under various lush names. You can hear up to a dozen podton notations: golden, bluish, olive, reddish, greenish. Let us agree that five will suffice for our explanation: the subtone can be, as is clear from the popular assortment, yellow or pink, and also olive or neutral (there are several pigments in almost equal proportions in such skin). For dark skin emit more and red. With the basic tone, things are much easier - shades are ranked in saturation from light to dark, and not only professional brands have a wide choice.
Yellow undertones are the most trouble-free, especially today: suitable shades of varying degrees of intensity are easily found among the tonal means of Korean production. Such skin usually does not require strong color correction, and it is easy to achieve perfect coverage using even the lightest fluids. You can change the basics, if in summer the skin easily tans, but it is possible that you can do with one suitable color, complementing it with a bronzer. Owning a pink undertone is somewhat more difficult. Even on healthy and well-groomed skin, areas where the vessels are naturally located closer to the surface may be noticeable - as a rule, this is the area of the nose. In the cold season, reddening, which may not please everyone, becomes a regular companion for each exit to the street.
Owners of a pink undertone are often advised to select a yellow tint to compensate for it. Gevorg explains that it’s worth doing only if you really don’t like strong redness or want to hide the rosacea: “If you have a pink-tinted face, you need to relax and pick up the tone of tonal means that matches your skin color you have problematic skin, closely spaced vessels and pronounced pink complexion, I would advise you to try light moisturizing textures like CC creams. Then, when choosing a color, you can put more emphasis on the yellow undertone. visual sensation of even shade of face. " It should be noted that special markings, again due to the absence of any consensus in naming funds, can be deceiving. The color, labeled as beige, may have both yellow and pink undertones, so the refinements will never be superfluous.
Olive skin tone is not as common and is defined as yellow with a greenish tint. It is because of him that even very fair skin may appear tawny, so that rich bases with a yellow shade are suitable for her. The rarest neutral shade can be friends with different bases, depending on the preferences of the owner - here, when choosing, it is important to choose the perfect color saturation. Special tools also exist for these complex skin tones - they should be sought from professional brands like MAC, NARS and Make Up Forever.
Color customization
Clarifiers and dimmers (or adjusters) of tonal resources, which were previously not found in a cosmetics bag even by every make-up artist, have recently become easy to buy for anyone. If the base suits you in all characteristics except color, then proper customization can work wonders. Gevorg reminds that first of all these products are a kind of tonal means, differing only in an extremely dark or light shade. So, if there is an available alternative, the bank can easily become abandoned on the far shelf over time.
The make-up artist tells you what to consider when using such a product: "The clarifier has its own light texture (for example, MAC Face and Body white tone) or much more dense (Manly Pro white adjuster). and texture. Here is an example: if you take a light, moist tone of Chanel Vitalumière Aqua and lighten the shade using MAC Face and Body, the tone density remains the same low. the general constants cf the food will immediately become quite dense. "
There are also subtleties in the treatment of color: the most popular mass product, the Adjuster of The Body Shop, contains pink pigment, therefore, if you don’t need to cool the tone at all, it may not work. It is possible that the solution to the problem already lies somewhere among the rubble of cosmetics. For example, Gevorg prefers to use Sephora, a very light moisturizing concealer, as an adjuster. So, the role of customization tools can perfectly play your favorite masking tools in very light or very dark shades and comfortable textures - as a rule, among professional clarifiers and dimmers, the choice according to this criterion is very meager.
Most of the tools that are designed for daily use, do not give a dense coverage, what to expect from them and not necessary. Essentially helps correct shrinkage of the color of the tonal base base under makeup. Among them are tools designed for color correction - Givenchy Actimine, Smashbox Photo Finish Color Correcting Primer and many others. With their help, you can easily give the skin the desired neutrality, and then apply the basic tone.
How to choose the means
Of course, the best option is obvious: everything needs to be tried on the face. The inner side of the hand in this sense is a bad helper. The skin color of this part of the body often differs from the skin color of the face, and it is quite difficult to adequately assess whether you have chosen the required coverage density. It is very important to conduct a test in natural light, but, unfortunately, it is a rare beast in our stores. A good solution is to consult a make-up artist who will help you decide not only with the color, but also with the composition that suits your skin type and the general set of tools you need. Many recommend choosing a tone so that it is not necessary to complete the makeup with powder, which may not be suitable for problem skin.
If a curse hangs over you and your favorite means are taken out of production, then at your service is a fairly accurate Findation service, which is looking for similar tonal foundations among all the goods known to it. The same feature is provided with the Temptalia blog - besides, there you can choose the basis for the main characteristics: subtone and shade.
Photo: MAC, The Body Shop, NARS