What to buy in the fall: 9 collections of leading Russian designers
Autumn is a great time to to revise the wardrobe and replenish it with things from new collections that have already entered stores. At the same time, a decent coat, fur coat, midi length skirts and well-cut trousers can be found in the collections of Russian brands. We tell how a new season is seen by domestic designers and what things to pay attention to.
Walk of shame
While everyone was following the third season of American Horror Story, the designer of one of the most successful and commercially verified Moscow brands of Walk of Shame, Andrei Artyomov, managed to make a collection based on the series. Transparent blouses, pencil skirts with deep cuts to the thigh, shiny combination dresses, usual for WOS bombers, dresses and shirts decorated with fringe, fleecy coats and shorts — all of this, as well as a lot of black things. Natural silk, crepe and cashmere Artemov combines with blended fabrics: artificial fur and wool fabric, the texture resembles cracked skin.
A.W.A.K.E.
Natalia Alaverdyan's young brand A.W.A.K.E., whose things have already been chosen by Kim Kardashian and the heroes of street style from Miroslavy Duma to Natalie Juice, each season devotes their collections to animals. This time - peacocks, and with them the bohemian style of the 70s. So, the collection includes colorful mohair coats, wide floral trousers, checkered capes, velvet tops and skirts, asymmetrical thick wool, raincoats, and transparent chiffon dresses. Separately, you can note fleecy shoes, which was created specifically for shooting lukbuk, and her, to our great chagrin, nowhere to be found.
osome2some
The democratic brand from St. Petersburg has not been producing uncluttered clothing for every day for more than five years. In the new season, designers Natalya Buzakova and Anna Andrienko show iconic cozy cocoon coats from wool of different colors: rich red, gray and pastel beige. The simplicity of the forms, characteristic of the brand, is diluted with asymmetric wrap skirts, snow-white jackets, dresses with frill and mohair sweatshirts with a V-neck on the back.
Jenia Kim
Moscow designer Zhenya Kim admits that this season she created a collection with an eye to the clear lines of the racks of the Italian architect Ettore Sottsassa, details of the national costumes of Japan and Korea, as well as creative mess on her desk. Elements of the Japanese kimono are in dresses, tied at the waist with bows and with drapes on the back. A double-breasted jacket is decorated with multi-colored buttons that resemble chest of drawers, and the decoration of most things is made with pure origami. Despite the excessive decoration, the Jenia Kim autumn-winter collection is functional: it is dominated by velvet, tweed and various woolen fabrics, which makes the collection ideal for our weather.
Cap america
Inspired by the photographs of Sarah Moon and Tim Walker, the designer of the brand Cap America Olga Shurygina seems to have sent her heroine to a surreal world. Olga skillfully works with contrasts, combining polar materials in the collection: matte smooth silk and fluffy fur, as well as brocade and hand-made fringe. What really attracts attention is the key things of the collection: double-sided lilac parka-fur coat, milk dresses-combinations with faux-fur trim, as well as cotton top and skirt with fur inserts in the form of letters CAP.
Yulia kondranina
Yulia Kondranina, a graduate of Central Saint Martins, launched a brand name in London two years ago. Now the designer is actively taking orders in the showroom in Paris and shows his collections during the London Fashion Week on the Fashion Scout platform. In the autumn collection, the designer shows multi-layered asymmetrical things, referring to the early works of the Japanese avant-garde artists of the 80s, and pays great attention to manual work and detailing things. As a result, Julia is able to find a balance between art and modern casual wear. At least, Opening Ceremony buyers with us are in this solidarity.
WHITE by Parfionova
Tatyana Parfenova's fashion house is one of the oldest in St. Petersburg and in the country. Today he is engaged not only in creating couture collection items and interior items, but he is working on the prêt-à-porter WHITE by Parfionova line, which the designer resumed 13 years later and has already taken to the Tranoï Paris exhibition. Considering white as a lack of color, and black as a mix of all colors, Tatyana Parfenova transfers her signature illustrations to clothes. The collection is made of environmentally friendly cotton, high-quality wool and faux fur, which the designer manually cuts and joins the details with stitches, creating intricate and multi-layered coats, pants, vests, sweatshirts and dresses.
LES 'by Lesia Paramonova
Lesya Paramonova creates fabulous and sometimes strange collections, and she takes pictures of the lookbooks with fantastic creatures. LES 'new autumn-winter collection is no exception. The designer puts embroidered dresses on author's dresses, which have long become Lesia’s business card, on blouses, sweatpants and sweatshirts — prints with the texture of tree bark and grass. In addition to the fabulous theme, Lesia released a collection of accessories - headbands with huge butterflies and tree roots.
ZDDZ
ZDDZ is the British brand of Central Saint Martins student, Dasha Selyanova from St. Petersburg, who makes good casual clothes and experiments with the aesthetics of the 90s. In the autumn Dasha’s collection: voluminous contrast sweaters with the words “This way up!”, “Drivers Wanted”, items with optical prints, striped trousers and turtlenecks with a multiplied Fragile print, as well as bulky bombers, long men's shirts with large pockets on the chest and strict coat Like many designers, ZDDZ took layering as a basis for the style and did not lose: the collection is very functional and meets the spirit of the times.