Editor of L'Officiel magazine Ira Shcherbakov about favorite outfits
FOR RUBBER "WARDROBE" we take pictures of beautiful, original or strangely dressed people in their favorite things and ask them to tell related stories. This week, our heroine is L'Officiel magazine editor Ira Shcherbakova.
So it turns out that my wardrobe can be divided into two parts. The first - the classic things in black, dark blue and (occasionally) beige. I will dress them in a meeting, on a date, just to work. The second is gold, sequins, lurex, colored fur. Any unusual stuff. They are cool, but every day I don’t dare to wear them - in the mood, I can walk to a party. At times, I am very willing to dress up my friends in them.
And this and that I collect as small collections - they simply have a different theme. And there and there is vintage and non-screwing. I choose everything carefully, with great love and confidence that I will wear it often and for a long time. I like it when there are one or two universal black dresses, one bag for all times, one jeans that really suits you, some really suitable perfumes that make you feel good.
Walk of Shame Dress, Shoes & Other Stories
Universal evening dress. He remembers me as a junior editor of the magazine SNC (it’s not that I, the younger editor, was very different from the current one, just the hair was shorter and there were more complexes). In this dress, I went to shows and corporate parties, was photographed at home with a friend, woke up at three in the morning on a lounger by the pool to the sound of "Party at Decl at Home." One colleague, having seen this thing, sent me a shot from "Office Romance" - from the scene where dressed Lyudmila Prokofyevna meets Novoseltseva. She is dressed there in something frighteningly similar.
Yves Saint Laurent Dress, Shoes & Other Stories
One of the favorite dresses. It was 1971, the spring-summer collection - Saint Laurent began to make big shoulders ten years before they became fashionable en masse. In that collection there are a lot of models with the same print in other colors - red, red, - but I came across a blue one. The hostess of the vintage shop in which I ordered this dress, the most beautiful woman from Canada named Cherie, still sometimes sends shots of old fashion filming with him. When it first arrived, for a long time I could not figure out how to tie a belt. It happened that everything at the most inopportune moment was leaving, like a robe in real porn (well, I exaggerate).
Yves Saint Laurent sewed on very tall and very thin. Quite unexpectedly, but the dress on me, with my 162 centimeters of growth, the village is exactly the same as in the archive shootings. There is a feeling that the previous owner had shortened it slightly.
Dior Jacket, Trousers of Unknown Origin, Shoes & Other Stories
In general, before our shooting, I was sure that this jacket can be worn only wide-open - buttoned up, he supposedly looks too formal and formal. But no - I tried and liked it! I like to wear it with a white T-shirt or a turtleneck under the throat. I have it "in case of important negotiations" - for the appearance of the advance ladies.
Gathering, I accidentally picked up, instead of skinny black pants, which I always wear, huge and long, whose existence I had safely forgotten for two years. It turned out well, I will walk like that.
Dorothy O'Hara Dress, COS Shoes
Dress Dorothy O'Hara, perhaps one of the most favorite things. Dorothy O'Hara worked in Los Angeles in the forties and fifties and wore mostly young actresses from the golden age of Hollywood - and mostly in black dresses. O'Hara had things very complicated, almost architectural, as they like to say now, cut. They always coolly emphasized the figure - these are exactly the dresses in which you like yourself very much.
This particular thing - the period of the forties, from the collection of ladies, only Dorothy O'Hara in his youth and worn. I accidentally saw the entire selection in the store on Etsy, and the prices were three times lower than in the "luxury" vintages. I still chose for a long time, asked the price, doubted whether there would be a narrow waist. And then on New Year's holidays I called my friends home - and after the third stack of vodka, we somehow suddenly climbed onto Etsy. Friends said: "Take it." I took and never regretted.
Shoes - a surprise! - cos. I have already bought two pairs of these and seriously think about the third. They are terribly comfortable, but at the same time also cute, in a good retro. And clean them easily.
REDValentino Dress, Shoes & Other Stories
Universal evening dress 2.0. I bought it with a good discount in Aizel on New Year's Eve. Here I like the cool fluffy skirt and bow - clean in the fifties in spirit. The fifties, by the way, is not the most quoted era in fashion now, but the silhouettes of that time are very suitable for me.
Coat Marusya Furs, homemade t-shirt, Balenciaga skirt, shoes & Other Stories
Coat sewed to order a friend of the family Marusya Ilchenko. It is easy, without unnecessary details, most convenient. Costume skirt - there’s still the same sparkling silver Lurex top without sleeves.
I made a t-shirt with a meme for a party dedicated to the launch of the site L'Officiel, in order to tweak my colleagues from the digital version. The slogan was discussed by the entire editorial board of the printed magazine: photo editor Lida and art director Nick helped choose the font, designer Misha moved the inscription to make it more beautiful. It turned out ... well, like a shirt with the inscription. Put on just with a silver skirt and studs.
Oscar de la Renta Dress
I do not know how and do not like to buy vintage impulsively - just as I do not like to romantically search for it at flea markets. For me, a separate thrill is to ask the price, carefully examine the state of things, compare the measurements with their own, make a selection for yourself on Etsy consisting of five to ten options, add options not with Etsy, and then take one thing, " my". I like to know what a thing is from, and more - ideally - to whom it belonged.
Still, one impulsive purchase I have. This is the golden dress of the sixties - it was the second vintage item in my wardrobe. It is too big in my chest, and the length is probably not quite mine. But he has such an incredibly beautiful fabric - all the early Oscar de la Renta is just a feast of the eye and the spirit - that I look and rejoice. I tried it on myself many times, but I never put it on anywhere, I’m waiting for a reason. But on the other hand, I like to dress up friends for her - one even met New Year in my house, and she was crazy about Oscar.
Almost all of the sixties and seventies period Oscar de la Renta is something with something. There is such a brocade and such embroidery that you want to walk in it all every day. Until now, I am looking for a thing that would be exactly my size and my style, and without torn jewelry buttons in the most visible place (these vintage buttons are sold separately, you can find them, but they are terribly expensive). I meditate on a pink-purple-gold set of a dress and coat, which I have already seen twice, but in one store it is L, and in the other it requires serious restoration.
Caftan
I myself met the New Year in this golden caftan, barefoot - it has a rather interesting history. Last fall, I started a telegram channel about vintage. Readers began to write - so I met Anya, the owner of a small St. Petersburg store More is More Vintage. We somehow quickly had such a club of interests out of two people: they were discussing particularly strange finds, boasting. And so I began to look for a new year's outfit, I wanted something golden, but nothing great came up with imputed money. And Anya just went to Los Angeles for purchases and for the estate sale - the full sale of someone's property - she found a gold caftan and brought it.
This is the sixties, apparently. Pure synthetics, but at that time, synthetics were more expensive than the current, was a fashionable material and was done conscientiously: the view does not lose until now. Cool, what a caftan maxi, but is designed for a small height like mine. There is no need to step on the hem or put on huge heels. I never figured out what kind of shoes to wear. And I decided: maybe, well, her shoes? ... I put this thing on at home parties, walk around the house barefoot.
Vintage leopard fur coat, Monki jeans, COS shoes
This is mom's fur coat from the nineties, rabbit; Initially, she was almost in the floor and without a collar. Five years ago, I dug it out and decided to shorten it, but did not wear it, did not grow together. Then, about two years ago, she was again taken to the dressmaker and a crazy blue collar was put on. And since then we are inseparable with a fur coat. She has a burned heart-shaped spot near her pocket: she looked in at a reunion meeting and one of her former classmates accidentally dropped a cigarette. I like this spot even.
Jeans are the most common, with a high waist, they are with me before last fall. Fit very well. I, in principle, wear only this pair, and one more - with trouser legs a little longer.
Books Betty Holbreich "Secrets of a Fashion Therapist", Gennady Shpalikov "Favorites"
Yes, this book is far from new, but I still think that it is timeless and one of the most important textbooks on style. The author is the legendary personal stylist from the Bergdorf Goodman department store. The book teaches fundamental things that came in handy to me, but it does it playfully, with historical anecdotes like "Ronald Reagan came here once for me to get a dress for my wife." The paper version was presented to me on the birthday of Julia Vydolob, for which she had immense gratitude and the rays of love.
One of my closest friends, director Anton Utkin, has a talisman - a plush duck named Paul, who has remained from the filming of the TV series “It's Complicated”. Anton takes her from time to time somewhere with her. Instead of a plush duck, I have a collection of Gennady Shpalikov: this is one of my favorite writers. Reading Shpalikova clears his head always. When everything is sad, Shpalikov reconciles with the outside world: you sit down, open "I am twenty years old", and everything suddenly becomes ok. I really like the paper book to touch, leaf through, and generally just to carry with me. This is the first edition, seventy-eighth year.
The Face Magazines
Igor Kompaniets, the head of SNC magazine’s editor-in-chief, taught me to collect magazines — he especially liked The Face, who went out from the eighties to zero. To zero, "Face" sour and closed, but in the first fifteen years of its existence, he annealed as best he could. An unknown sixteen-year-old Kate Moss made the "face of the year", printed the early works of Jürgen Teller and the merry BDSM footage. I especially like the lyrics at The Face: in one of the numbers I brought to the shoot, there is a whole series of materials about what kind of "ugly" (purely from an aesthetic point of view) era were the seventies, in the other - not very censored interview with Bukowski, in the third - a cover story, which was written by a young and fashionable Brett Easton Ellis.
My second favorite magazine from the eighties is Spy. But more about that later.
Vintage pendant
The first vintage item in my wardrobe is the only one bought in a romantic way that heroes of the “Wardrobe” category love so much at the flea market in France. Silver and mother of pearl; Now I try to wear carefully - I noticed that the pearl went cracked.
Chanel bags and wallet
Vintage - only the biggest: she is about fifteen years old and got from her mother. Model Cambon since no longer do with such patch pockets. Pockets, by the way, are very convenient, a lot of things fit in them.
All the rest also serves which year faithfully. The little "2.55" is my first "adult" bag, she is seven years old, and I am very shores of her. Fits almost everything. A wallet of about five.
Perfume Chabaud Lait et Chocolat
Before them did not use perfume. Smell of milk and chocolate, but completely unobtrusive. This particular bottle was presented for the birthday by our former director of the “Beauty” section Olesya Mints. Well, since then I have not parted with them.