Make up your mind: Ideas and thoughts of 10 famous makeup artists

If once the makeup artists played a mediated role on the set - for example, they simply removed the imperfections of the skin of the models, now they do with the faces of the models almost everything they want: they paste on hundreds of rhinestones, paint them in blue-black and stylize clowns and mimes. Inspired by the experiments of makeup artists, we decided to find out who they are and what they think about their work.

Pat McGrath

Pat McGrath - the most influential makeup artist of our time according to Vogue. After graduating from school, a black British woman studied art at Northampton College, but she never received a specialized fashion education — she began working with i-D and The Face magazines. Pat says that her mom taught the masterful handling of cosmetics: she advised her daughter to choose lipstick and shadows for prints on clothes. A few years ago, McGrath was appointed design director for the beauty division of Procter & Gamble, which is responsible for Covergirl and Max Factor products. In preparation for work on the set and shows, Pat McGrath takes with him about 40 bags of cosmetics. No wonder: with a light hand makeup artist on the faces of the models Dior and Viktor & Rolf, these pictures appear.

Fashion incorporates everything. Make-up is not just make-up, it's a movie, television, art history ... culture. Development of the concept of make-up is always a test, the key here is to come up with something new every time

Gucci FW 2012

natural tone of face

lightened eyebrows

maroon lips

Louis Vuitton FW 2012

eyebrow accent

Smokey Aiz

natural tone of face

Prada FW 2012

bleached whiskey

orange eyebrows

black shadows and purple eyeliner

Gucci Westman

Californian Gucci Westman, who grew up in Sweden, is known for working on the make-up of the films "Buffalo 66" and "Being John Malkovich", as well as makeup Cameron Diaz and Natalie Portman. The girl clearly finds a common language with celebrities: the lion's share of filming with them, the Allure and Vogue publications are entrusted to her. Since 2003, Gucci has worked as the international creative director of Lancome, and in 2008, she moved to a similar position in Revlon. Westman practically doesn’t develop a make-up for shows, with the exception of New York shows like Oscar de la Renta and Preen.

When I was 13 years old, my mother did not allow me to be painted. Therefore, I wanted to be even more beautiful and put on myself a ton of cosmetics - I didn’t have the best look. Now the work of a makeup artist seems beautiful to me. I travel and experiment with cosmetics - what could be better?

Oscar de la Renta FW 2012

cream shadows

naturally pink lips

shimmering skin

Preen FW 2012

eyebrow accent

some black mascara

cheekbone blush

Tom Pesho

Tom Pesho began his career as an assistant to the famous makeup artist Linda Cantello and reached the position of art director Estee Lauder - the first in the history of the brand. Favorite Kate Moss and Madonna became famous thanks to the collaboration with the duet Roitfeld - Testino in the late 1990s, worked with Demarchelier and Lindberg on the campaigns Burberry and Givenchy, created images for the show Balmain and Ralph Lauren - in general, worked with half the fashion industry. The French makeup artist, highly appreciating friendship with colleagues, has many interesting stories in stock. For example, at the Prada show in 2001, Tom made the lips of the models fluorescent red. However, this idea did not like Gisele Bundchen, who at that time preferred to simply stroke her lips with a contour pencil. Pesho gave way to the model and said that he would personally report to Miuccia Prade about changing the Brazilian make-up and outlining her fluorescent-red lips with a pencil. They say that on that day Gisele Bundchen was very pleased with the work of the makeup artist.

I always try to respect a woman and do makeup for her: for me, beauty is more important than creative refinements

Derek Lam FW 2012

Smokey Aiz with burgundy shadows

mat pink lips

Marni FW 2012

pale skin

dark blush

artificial eye shadow

Moschino FW 2012

black arrows

light blush

natural complexion

Peter Phillips

Look at several shootings of the Belgian Peter Phillips - and you will immediately understand that he is a graphic designer by education. For the i-D and W editorial, he puts blush and shadows on the cheekbones and eyelids of the models so that any illustrator would envy. The makeup artist, who is the creative director of the beauty line Chanel, can afford almost everything. He pastes models with rhinestones and glitter on his face, stylizes eye makeup under the dirt, and invents translated tattoos for Coco Chanel. And each season makes everyone go crazy over one of the shades of Chanel nail polish.

At one shooting in the 1990s, I drew a model of Mickey Mouse on the face. After that, I was remembered for a long time as Mr. Mickey Mouse.

Chanel FW 2012

eyebrows plastered with glitter

Smokey Aiz in gray and lilac tones

Dries van Noten FW 2012

orange shadows

natural tone of face

Fendi FW 2012

black arrows

white shadows

natural color of faces

Stephan Marais

Stephen Marais was born in France, but he spent most of his childhood in Africa. He has been in the beauty industry since the 1980s: then he began working with Peter Lindberg and German Vogue, and later engaged in a cosmetics line for Shiseido. Since then, the makeup artist has acquired many regular customers, including the singer Madonna and Lady Gaga. In 2008, Stefan Marais published the Beauty Flash book, which collected his own polaroids from filming over the past fifteen years.

When I look for a source of inspiration, I watch movies. Pictures of Fritz Lang, old black and white ribbons with Smokey Aiz and these eyes from "Cabaret". I can even turn to "Blade Runner"

DKNY FW 2012

silver shade

natural complexion

clear shine

Jean Paul Gaultier FW 2012

black eyelids

black eyeliner

Haider Ackermann FW 2012

golden shadows

cranberry lips

Lucia pieroni

Since the 1990s, Lucia Pieroni has worked with the magazines Marie Claire and Vogue, and in recent years the most influential fashion industry photographers, Mert Alas and Marcus Piggo, have trusted her make-up. Unlike most of his colleagues, he loves color, but uses it quite rarely: if it’s not about theatrical shooting with a make-up for Love, only bright lipstick is used. The latest advertising campaigns of Chloe, Loewe and Versace are hers.

To too much makeup, I say absolute no. Make-up should not be a mask. But natural bow is also not for me: I prefer lipstick on lips, preferably red

Christopher Kane FW 2012

eyebrow accent

pale skin

Rick Owens FW 2012

pale complexion

scarlet lipstick

Rochas FW 2012

maroon lipstick

natural skin tone

Diane kendal

Diane Kendal began her career with television, and now makes sets for Interview and W. A British make-up artist who in 1990s popularized grunge and created a cosmetics line for Calvin Klein, is responsible for the main New York shows - Alexander Wang, Jason Wu, duo Proenza Schouler. Diana Kendal considers Pat McGrath her idol; she uses M.A.C. cosmetics in her work. and Nars herself, by the way, is not beautiful.

Initially, I wanted to do special effects and filmmaking. Enrolled at London College of Fashion to study theater. There I met designers and photographers and began to realize that there is a whole world of make-up and that I can be a makeup artist.

Alexander Wang FW 2012

graphic eyebrows

black arrows

Jason Wu FW 2012

khaki shade

light blush

Thakoon FW 2012

scarlet lips

even tone

Dick page

Dick Page is another big name from the beauty industry: since 2007, he has taken the chair of the creative director Shiseido. The Briton mastered the technique of make-up, working with friends, then studied art, recently took up photography. Now he manages not only to constantly collaborate with Marc Jacobs, but also to lead the column The Makeup Guy in the magazine Allure.

For me, there is no ideal of beauty, there are only beautiful personalities.

Michael Kors FW 2012

frosty blush

pink lips

Narciso Rodriguez FW 2012

orange shadows

black eyeliner

Sonia Rykiel FW 2012

coal eyebrows

gray shadows and black arrows

strawberry lipstick

Charlotte Tilbari

Red-haired Charlotte Tilbari grew up in Ibiza and learned the art of makeup from makeup artist Mary Greenwell. On her shoulders - the position of artistic director Helena Rubenstein, as well as contracts with Burberry and Tom Ford. Charlotte says that no one saw her without makeup — not even her husband. Her clients include Gwyneth Paltrow and Kate Hudson, but she considers Kate Moss Tilbury to love her heart-shaped lips and the expressive cheekbones of the British model as her favorite face.

I do not understand women who do without makeup. They need to come to me, I will hide them, they are crazy! They just do not realize the power of makeup, it can change our lives.

Sportmax FW 2012

thick brown eyebrows

Red lips

Etro FW 2012

bulky eyebrows

brown matte lips

Val Garland

If you watched the closing of the Olympic Games in London, you probably saw the release of Karen Elson, Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss and other models in the dresses of British designers. The make up for this defile was made by Val Garland. She was born and raised in Bristol, and then moved to Sydney, where she learned to be a colorist and began doing makeup. In 1994, Val returned to London and began working with Alexander McQueen, Dazed & Confused and Nick Knight. Now Garland does Lady Gaga's make-up, and also works with her friend and stylist Nicola Formichetti and his Mugler brand.