From scratch: 7 update flavors
Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
We hope you have already managed to break or forget all your New Year promises, but if not, we also sincerely support you and want to really start a new life. And our perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova shows seven flavors that are associated with the update - it’s nice to start only the coming year with such.
Fresh life
Fresh
$90
for 100 ml
It is a pity that in Russia it is not for sale, at least officially, the American Fresh perfumery is not very expensive, good, and in some places is a very good perfume in bottles resembling sake bottles (the brand has the corresponding fragrance, the best in the line). If you believe the site, the plot of the fragrance is this: you woke up at dawn, outside the window is fog, the lake near the house - because the weekend is somewhere off the beaten path, in nature, it’s still cold, but you, a good fellow, are hungry for movement and everything still go swimming. Fresh Life Synopsis contains about a dozen classic New Year promises that have been fulfilled, and it smells in the early morning of a happy person surrounded by beauty: magnolias, clear water, green grass and mosses.
Fresia
Santa maria novella
9920 rub.
for 100 ml
In nature, freesia is a fragrant African flower, which is sometimes called the "Cape Lily of the Valley" (although today it is mainly grown in the Netherlands). In perfumery, it is a universal abstract floral shading without characteristic odorants, something that brands like to indicate in the list of notes, if there is nothing more to put into it. Schematically, the smell of freesia can be made a couple of fragrant substances, which are already in any composition, that is, it turns out that speculative freesia is everywhere.
A good example is Fresia Santa Maria Novella, an elderly Florentine manufactory: do not write, the marketer thinks, that the cologne smells like cream Camay? In fact, there is nothing shameful about it: its classic flower-musky, delicate, enveloping fragrance is very good and causes a lot of people to have exceptionally pleasant memories of childhood, when the world seemed so pure, new and full of treasures.
White linen
Estée lauder
from 5175 rubles.
for 60 ml
There are perfume brands that - consciously or unintentionally, as a side effect - have been perfumed an inventory of reality for years. The first, for example, is Demeter, who has appointed himself responsible for the inventory of all the smells of the world: the portfolio has already exceeded three hundred colognes with the smells of rain, mold, pizza, zombies, New Zealand beaches and other ordinary and exotic things.
To the second - a great, and maybe a great brand Estée Lauder, which up to a certain time felt the historical moment so well that it produced real milestone spirits (in particular, Pleasures): today one can study the evolution of the American dream and American character whole In addition to its obvious beauty - in the end, the composition of 1978 was collected by the ingenious perfume Sofia Sophiesman, - White Linen is remarkable for the fact that it fits perfectly into the gallery of eternal American values with their apparent accessibility. It’s right there, somewhere between the white tennis shorts replicated by Edward Hopper’s postcards and the sea sunsets at the Hamptons, which effectively glitter everyone, but the local “old money” especially. Most likely, White Linen was created primarily for rich women, those whose linen dresses never crumple and silver does not grow turbid, but in the end became a bestseller of a whole generation. The reason is clear: the aldehyde-floral, thick and crisp like a fresh shirt, the new banknote or the American beauty rose petal, White Linen smells of a bright future and a million possibilities.
Musk eau de parfum
Etro
14 400 rub
for 100 ml
Musk is a re-release of the same flavor of 2004 in a higher concentration, which always means a new assembly: indeed, the Musk of 2018 is bitter, greener and more angular than its predecessor fifteen years ago. The picture that comes to mind when you inhale this clean, bitter bouquet of forest grasses — a white T-shirt in green spots of moss and sedge: roll on the surface well, which is not a chiropractor’s table or a yoga mat, but also smells of rain and spring and does not require anything from you. Extremely far from Etro's languid-oriental heritage, but very good.
Eau Simple de Concombre
Phaedon paris
11 800 rub.
for 100 ml
Phaedon is one of the lines of perfumer Pierre Guillaume, the main multilanter of today's niche and a great lover of T-shirts with a serious neckline. It is slightly less popular than, say, Pierre Guillaume Paris (formerly Parfumerie Generale) and the aquatic La Croisière, but at the same time very nice and predictable in a good way that for modern perfumery is rather a plus: Rue de Lilas ("Lilac Street") as the name says, it smells of lilac and a little rain, Lentisque ("Mastic") - the Mediterranean coast, where the mastic pistachio grows, Tabac Rouge ("Red Tobacco") - a strong Egyptian hookah.
“Simple cucumber water” really smells of strong, crunchy cucumber, crushed with mint and lemon, that is, a classic set for refreshing water, which is usually offered to spa visitors. Let us suppose that not everyone spent the holidays in detox retreats, balneoclinics and other wonderful places for which there are neither words in Russian nor money in the account - but with “Water” on your wrists it would seem that you ran somewhere nearby.
Paris Santorin
Carven
11 390 rub.
for 100 ml
Almost everyone likes perfume figs, but the problem with him is that in the mid-1990s two ideal flavors came out on this topic, Premier Figuer, L'Artisan Parfumeur (actually, the first fig flavor in history), and Philosykos, Diptyque, both are authorships of Olivia Jacobetti's perfume. Accordingly, it has been assumed for more than twenty years that it is not possible to present anything new to the genre. On the one hand, those figs are really very good, on the other hand, the offer in the field of perfumery has increased tenfold and a lot of wonderful things sink in its mudflows: tobacco-salty figs Dirty Velvet of Swedish brand Vilhelm Parfumerie, Womanity Americans Mugler, Armani Privé Figuier Eden, Giorgio Armani - do you remember them?
"Santorini" from the exclusive Carven collection can also be overwhelmed with a wave of new releases: the new flavor arose on the shelves of stores during the holidays, when we sniffed perhaps our pillow, and yet this is a wonderful fig - a ripe fig with a glass of almond milk, in which we put a spoonful of honey , the smell of next summer.
Sacred water
The harmonist
22 000 rub.
for 50 ml
Before the New Year, the Harmonist brand, made by Lola Karimova-Tillyaeva, daughter of the first president of Uzbekistan, was brought to Russia. One would have thought that the perfumers of the brand were elbowed their hands to Zira, barberry and dried rose petals, but nothing of the sort: with the current geotag of the hostess, Los Angeles, the brand has much more in common than with its historic homeland. Sacred Water, for example, smells like salty air on the coast, rubber from California bicycle lanes, cocktail beatters and other signs of life that you want to fly at least for a couple of weeks.
PHOTO: Sephora, Amazon, Perfume Empire, Essenza Nobile, fifi, Jane de Boy, The Harmonist