12 angry spectators: Guys and girls evaluate the latest men's fashion
Shows of men's collections of the next autumn-winter season - 2015-2016 is in full swing, and they are being watched with unprecedented revival. This week ended the show in London and started the main exhibition of clothing, shoes and accessories Pitti Uomo, held twice a year in Florence. Lately, men's collections are often more interesting than women's collections, but they give rise to conflicting opinions. We asked to comment on the bold collections from London from two points of view: male and female, in order to find out what is men's fashion now.
Nasir Mazhar
FW 2015-2016
Nazir Mazhar's new collection turned out to be very winter and very patriotic. So, Nazir perfectly beats up the Turkish theme (for nothing, he lives in London). Here and print "cucumber", and transparent T-shirts from the grid, vests, shiny down jackets. Down jackets are good. In these you can meet the winter dawn on the Bosphorus, to sit in the Turkish bars at the Kottbusertor in Berlin, so that there, at least in the Alps to climb on the lift. Another collection is very youthful, very fashionable and very much in the style of the nineties, which, let's say honestly, are pretty fashionable. Since I'm already thirty, I chose the most peaceful option, sorry, onions. It seems to me that he personifies the phrase: in the feast, in the world, and in good people.
Modern Caucasian style with a twinkle. In general, I do not understand why Russian guys are so wary of Lurex and other iridescent fabrics? I am for the emancipation. In addition, I love everything Eastern. In general, the collection should go with us to cheer. In my fitness club, guys like to dress like: sweaters with stripes, mesh shirts - this is understandable, I want to emphasize biceps. Opened buttons on the polo is fine, but it would also be nice to raise the collar. In shiny vests with an oriental print, you can both dance and lezginochku hookah. But seriously, I liked only black and white tracksuits. In matters of male fashion, I am a terrible conservative.
Christopher Raeburn
FW 2015-2016
I must say, I am not an expert in fashion. However, not so long ago, at Look At Me, we wondered how the clothes of the future look like and how functional they are. To solve this question, we asked futurologists: are there already examples of things that are suitable in terms of functionality and design for the future? Despite the fact that we do not have a Christopher Raeburn FW2015 collection, it meets all the criteria in order to become everyday clothing for the post-apocalyptic world.
It is suitable for several reasons. Virtually any item from the collection is functional in nature, and their smart design is more interesting than decoration. The main material of the Christopher Raeburn collection was residual components from production. For example, to create vests used raft. So the designer develops the idea of waste-free production. Pick a more suitable and durable material for survival is difficult. From a visual point of view, the rubber in the collection perfectly complements the simple cut of parks and bombers.
Blown jackets resemble life jackets. Most likely, the jackets retained their functions, which means they can save in an emergency situation, for example during a flood. In a more domestic case, I hope, an inflatable jacket will save from bruises and fractures if you slip on the ice.
To be honest, quilted down jackets in combination with trousers evoke memories of junior classes. So you expect that the guy from the podium will run up to you after school, knock his red backpack on the head and tumble down into the snow. If you distract from the image of a classmate, a bully, then separately I like things. A down jacket will suit some extravagant lover of futuristic clothes, and pants - even an attached clerk. In general, it seems to me that the collection is designed for very brave (unfortunately, only in terms of clothing) young people. If only because most things are bright. I think that if certain things can be seen on the streets of Moscow, then whole images - definitely not. At least, on the guys far from the fashion world. This image is not close to me: red duffles and orange down-padded coats do not captivate me. Most of all in the collection I liked the classic look and also, perhaps, this one. All because of the touching shark sweaters.
Craig green
FW 2015-2016
Maybe because of the number of ribbons or because of the models in socks, it seemed to me that the new collection of Craig Green was created exclusively for the character of the Japanese series of hack'n'Slash games "Devil May Cry", the cartoon "InuYasha" or designed for the wardrobe of pop artist Kamui Gakta. All these endless ribbons, wide pants, bright red coats would clearly look perfect in a rapid action scene.
In my opinion, in the image that I chose, there is everything that a man should like. First, these things look like a form. There are many quasi-historical signs: "samurai" belts at the waist, collar and "sea" sides like a pea-jacket, wide trousers with a high waist, a turtleneck with a free collar and a dark blue strict "school" color. The second is massive clothing, very masculine, emphasizing broad shoulders (which not everyone has). On the third hand, the collection looks elegant, youthful. Perhaps because of the glut in details and impracticality. In addition to this image in my wardrobe, of course, I would take a sweater with a hole in the middle, which would definitely wear too often.
Craig Green is called the new Jonathan Anderson. The whole London fashion party is crazy about him. Frankly, I would wear the things he does. Green is one of Lulu Kennedy’s clients in Fashion East, from where the coolest modern designers from Meadham Kirchhoff to Marques'Almeida came from. Sam Lulu calls him his personal favorite. He is actively supported by stylist Anna Trevelyan, and she knows a lot about who will be the new superstar.
Green from that wave of designers who rethink men's fashion, shake it, break the canons and produce a fresh product that dilutes the endless stream of classic and street fashion. Specifically, in this image I like how he beats up the idea of workwear as something very masculine. At the same time, Craig adds irony: ridiculously exaggerated volumes, all these strings, a double belt of trousers. Would I like to see my boyfriend in this outfit? If he was a frequenter of fashion weeks (which, I hope, will never happen), definitely yes. Since discharged guys in the spirit of Pitti Uomo and fans of Hood By Air are pretty tired. For everyday life, it is possible to leave the upper part of the image and add chinos and sneakers.
Casely hayford
FW 2015-2016
The perfect Russian man of the future looks like this. Boots that are not afraid of salt and slush, half-half-shorts, black jacket, another black jacket is longer, a blown bomber jacket over, of course, black. Restrained hairstyle or lack thereof. Besides jokes, I like this look. Probably, this is a professional deformation: after several years of working with the “Style” heading, it seems that the best clothes are those that can be pulled on in several layers so that it is warm, and not to bathe, are there any stains from the sweet and sour sauce.
On the move, I am glad that the model is a pronounced man, which not everyone can boast at this show, and indeed in life. Of the other advantages - the lack of skirts, heels, playfully shortened / translucent elements of clothing and other game, which can be found at current shows from the men's fashion weeks. Globally confused "hangers" on the pants: dangling when walking the rope below the belt suggest the idea that the young man, as the hero of the film "Everything and all at once," "well, like sublimates." The collection as a whole evokes a minimum of emotions and associations, which, in my opinion, is ideal for men's fashion. Although a few exits still confuse: pink coats and jackets, striped skirts, sleeves to the knee - in the Moscow subway with such equipment can not survive.
Christopher Shannon
FW 2015-2016
I like to watch the development of Briton Christopher Shannon. He makes a kind Jacquémus, only for guys. He has a funny perception of fashion: for him it is a broken mechanism, but the collections always look very cool. I like people with a good sense of humor, especially in fashion design, where irony is a big problem. Would I walk like this? Of course not, but the sweater (they are always especially successful for Shannon) and the pants are mine for sure. By the way, from this summer his collection can be found in Moscow Wood Wood: SS'15, a little more punk and straight, but just as funny and ironic.
Christopher Shannon graduated from Saint Martins under the auspices of Louise Wilson, and that says a lot. His collections perfectly embody what is in our view of the British fashion. It is important that graduates of Saint Martins always have a meaning behind their eccentricity. The basis of the collection Shannon took the famous logos, revising them in his own way. From recent, we remember this reception from Jeremy Scott in the collection of "McDonald's" Moschino. Shannon uses logos neater.
Here, not everyone recognizes the Tesco logo - a cheap British supermarket. Now I am studying in London and I see from the inside how relevant his collection is and it coincides with the spirit of the times. Shannon says that he cares about all young designers and editors - about the crisis. The crisis has affected the fashion industry: many graduates can not find a job. The lettering "broke" on a sweater describes this situation. Here Shannon is right - sometimes, really, I want to put a bag on my head. In addition to the general idea, I like trouser silhouettes and color combinations.
J.W. Anderson
FW 2015-2016
The latest collection of Jonathan Anderson reminds me of the first verse of the song "Diamond Dogs", which David Bowie dedicated to the dandy of a vaguely acid dystopian future. She sounded like this: "As they pulled you out of the oxygen tent, you asked for the latest party." And the Anderson guys go to the party straight from the trailer village of the retrofuturists, which clearly exists on the outskirts of the embodied future. Otherwise, it is difficult to explain these silhouettes of an hourglass, multi-layered images, an abundance of incongruous elements, a briolin styling and a gypsy color palette. Minimalism retreated here. In its place came excessiveness and deliberate high cost.
I especially liked this image. Here you can see the chiseled glam silhouette of the 70s. With total restraint, there are elements from the DNA of the entire collection: a two-color complex gate, an abundance of textures and a pendant in your hand, which you can chat with with a bored look. The final note are the pants with cuts on the sides. In this image one can see the cunning and wit of the design solution of the genius Anderson.
Endless love and respect for Jonathan Anderson, one of the few designers who publicly does what he believes. While most of the talents involuntarily bend under the pressure of the commercial department (whose task is to sell), Jonathan stubbornly defends his understanding of fashion - unique and not simple, and therefore he is engaged in art. Dmitry chose, say, not the most characteristic bow for showing. Nevertheless, he clearly illustrates that the designer did not think about gender when he was created. The boundaries of gender for Jonathan do not exist, the men's collection flows smoothly from what was shown a little earlier than the female one and is, in fact, the visual embodiment of his idea for this season - he invented, painted. Therefore, when you see a designer’s perception of such normal things as “the average guy doesn’t brighten up these pants,” you don’t think about it. You think about it later, on the purchase, where you realize that “okay, I’ll look at the very pants in a beautiful shooting of Brett Loyd for AnOther Man, but these are easier to cut - I’ll take to the store. And this is in one case. In the other - you understand that they are not even in the showroom. Walked across the room and, seeing the endless commercial processing seen on the show and the lack of that bold and strange, you state - art is art, and the proposal creates demand.
Photo: Getty Images / Fotobank (6)