Belgian dozen: who will replace the Antwerp Six
Tiny Belgium was once not the most obvious country to look for design talents. Until Martin Margiela, Raf Simons, Dries Van Nothen, Ann Demeulemeister and a dozen more names that you heard more than once left. Wonderzine editor Rita Zubatova went to Brussels and Antwerp to watch the La Cambre school graduation show and, along with the legends of Belgian design, evaluate the masters of Academy of Fine Arts. Here are the names that are worth remembering, and tell how you can buy things from their first collections.
Buy now
In the showroom Madifesto gathered designers working in Brussels from one to three years. These brands have not yet had time to put things into the global stream (which is even not bad), but they already sell them in several stores and sew things for personal orders. We talked to the designers and found out how they live and where they can be bought.
As a basis The new collection from Brussels, Jean-Paul Lespanyar, took the image of a Danish fisherman: against classic Paris, the sky and “my mom”, inspiration seems not the most obvious. At the exit we see a jumpsuit transforming into trousers, jacquard skirts and costumes in logos referring to comics. Ugly, exaggerated shoes do not add practicality: we would feel sorry for fishing in such a way.
Especes
The idea to create jewelry, inspired by the skeletons of animals, not the freshest, but the design Especes bribes real interest in the anatomy of each. She showed us necklaces poured out of silver over the real jaws of a boar, cats, foxes, shark's fang.
How to buy: Le Meute (Brussels)
Two incredibly cute the girls behind the Krjst brand, Erika and Lyustrin, graduated from La Cambre school in Brussels only last year and presented their first collection. Among the many brands inspired by subcultures and religions, this one is characterized by its incredible quality and unusual textures for its debut work.
Marc-Philip Couder He says that he worked with dark flowers for a long time, and then broke through: he dedicated the summer collection to Spain and bullfighting, and in winter (which still can not be shown, but believe it in word), sewed skirts and dresses in a fluorescent leopard print.
Online store will open in 6 months
A.Knachfuss
We already told About German Alice Nakfus as a designer, working with a discreet color palette and avant-garde cut. The love for experiments with volumes from Alice remained, but in the past two seasons, the designer has taken a great interest in prints. Tropical, wicker wood and mystical abstracts appeared after a trip to the forests of the Amazon.
How to buy: Ra 13 (Antwerp)
www.farfetch.com
Jesse Lecomt Clothing refers simultaneously to ethnic nations and pop culture. The designer lovingly talks about each seam, feathers woven into the fabric and printed prints, and is ready to sew a dress according to your standards and send it directly to Russia.
Love and remember
Graduates of the Belgian design schools often embark on a desperate avant-garde and make a coat of clips and shoes made of polyethylene. We watched 50 shows of masters of Brussels-based La Cambre and the Antwerp Academy of Fine Arts, where graduates first rated "Antwerp Six" in full force. Wonderzine chose six very young designers who managed to find a compromise between crazy ideas and practicality.
Graduates cannot still be found in stores (we give them at least six months), but their names are useful to remember: by writing them on Facebook now, you risk getting the debut creation of the future creative director Dior. Agree, the expectations are worth it.
Esan Morshed Sefat he releases models on the catwalk to the sounds of birds and trees, and he puts on a turban on his head. If you close your eyes to the latter, you will surely fall in love with dresses, swimsuits and capes with newspaper collages.
Emmanuel Lebas - One of the few graduates of the Brussels school La Cambre, things that you can imagine in life. Architectural dresses inspired by colonnades are not only pleasant to look at, but you want to wear them at the same moment - models in complexly designed things look so fragile.
About Minju Kim You have probably already heard about the winner of the H & M contest - in the next season she will present a clothing line, which will be sold in selective stores of the brand. Successes Minzhu achieved, not yet completed the magistracy of the Antwerp Academy. In the graduation collection of the designer there are hyper volume coats and dresses that attract with cut and textures. About hats, yes, in Russia you can forget.
Seeing Felix Boehm's clothes, immediately you think - this is someone who in a couple of years will be taken by the next Versus designer. Donatelle will most likely have a coat made from metalized leather and light blue dresses trimmed with stones. For the fact that with blue fur, fashionistas are fighting now.
Dries Van Notein Jury Surely he will take the practice of Sol Alonso. Dresses in a flower and a cage are sent to his summer collection, which, in general, is unserious: it would not hurt to learn from elders (especially such) at first.
We have already seen plastic coats on the podium, but Wim Bruinok managed to stand out. Coat with voluminous bows and translucent through the patterns on the dresses I want to consider.