Face tonics: Why they are needed and whether they are useful
Text: Adel Miftakhova
Tonic is not the cornerstone of care, and without it it is quite possible to do. Another thing is that tonics are different, and we tried to figure out which tonics can be very useful, and which ones can be completely avoided.
In the very first approximation, the idea of tonic is to restore the acid-base balance after washing, remove the feeling of tightness and remove the remnants of a cleansing agent. Human skin has a pH of 3.5-5.5, and the protective lipid layer covering it is sometimes called acid mantle. Washing breaks the acidity of the skin, because the surfactants contained in cleansing agents are alkaline. Acid-alkaline balance after some time after washing is restored itself, but the use of tonic involves the acceleration of the recovery process. However, scientists and cosmetologists agree that using a tonic after washing does not have any noticeable effect on the acidity of the skin, so its use in this capacity is hardly justified. In addition, today more and more sparing cleansers are produced, and many of them do not contain soap at all. As a result, they practically do not break the acidity of the skin, and if they break, it is much softer, and it recovers by itself rather quickly.
From tightness and to remove debris after washing, tonic can certainly help. But many tonics contain witch hazel and alcohol, and both of these ingredients irritate and dry the skin, especially if it is dry and sensitive in itself. Therefore, if you still want to use a tonic for this purpose, it is better to choose those in which there are no components irritating the skin, but there are moisturizing and soothing: glycerin, aloe vera or hyaluronic acid. The problem of tightness is easier to solve if you choose mild cleansers, which are becoming more and more every year. In addition, there are many means for washing, for example, oil-based, which remove all contaminants and wash away without residue. After such a need to further cleanse the skin with a tonic disappears.
In non-professional circles it is believed that the tonic acts as a conductor for the rest of the cosmetics, but this statement is very controversial. The only obstacle that cosmetics encounter on the way to the skin is the stratum corneum and the small distance between the skin cells, which prevents large molecules from penetrating into it. And if the first problem can be easily solved by regular exfoliation, then the second one cannot be solved at all. A simple tonic, for obvious reasons, will not solve either one or the other. In addition, special components are initially added to modern cosmetics, which cause it to be quickly absorbed into the skin, and no additional effort is required for this.
Many creams contain water-retaining ingredients that act as a sponge to retain water, and when applied to tonic they actually work better. For example, products with glycerin or hyaluronic acid. If applied to dry skin, there will be no water to hold, and they will have the opposite effect. Tonic can make just the source of this water, but with the same success you can apply such creams just on the skin wet after washing.
Nevertheless, against the background of quite useless tonic type "water with alcohol and extracts" manufacturers recently began to produce an increasing number of tonic with a very rich composition. Such tonics contain moisturizing, anti-aging, antioxidant and soothing ingredients. Conventionally, essences or toners can be attributed to the same category - thick moisturizing tonics, which are extremely popular in Asia. They are not intermediate, but a completely independent stage of care and are able to moisturize, nourish, protect and smooth the skin. And they quite have the right to exist on our dressing tables. For example, Estée Lauder Micro Essence Skin Activating Treatment Lotion, although it is called lotion, is essentially an enriched tonic with a lot of regenerating and moisturizing ingredients. In the lower price category of such tonics also abound. For example, Bioderma Hydrabio contains glycerin and niacinamide, which is gaining increasing popularity as an anti-aging ingredient. Such saturated tonics can be the first step of moisturizing for dehydrated skin, especially if it is prone to fat and you prefer light textures.
Another type of tonics - matting and balancing - is designed for oily and problem skin. Their main drawback is that they almost always contain a huge amount of alcohol. Alcohol in this case acts as a drying and antibacterial component. We do not cease to repeat that the oily skin is controlled mainly by hormones and to a much lesser extent by the way of life. Therefore, drying the skin with alcohol and other aggressive components will not help to reduce its fat content, but will only give a temporary effect of purity and dullness. Ultimately, the use of such tonics leads to irritation and dehydration. Moreover, irritated skin as a defense begins to produce even more sebum, and this leads to additional rashes. Often these remedies also have a narrowing of pores, but this effect, unfortunately, is only temporary. And the point is not in the means themselves, but in the fact that it is impossible in principle to shrink the pores. You can reduce the visibility of pores, maintaining their purity, but even here there are a lot of much softer alternatives, which will be discussed below.
In addition to moisturizing and matting tonics, there are also exfoliating. In spite of the fact that, by their effect, such means are not related to tonics, their format and method of application is closest to tonic remedies. As a rule, they contain AHA- or BHA-acids. And precisely tonics from this category, if you choose the right one, can transform your skin. Tonics with ANA-acids exfoliate the surface of the skin, make it shine and help the subsequent care to act more efficiently. Among such tonics are, for example, PIXI Glow Tonic, Clarins Gentle Exfoliator Brightening Toner or REN Clarimatte Clarifying Toner. All of them act very gently, but at the same time they perfectly peel and refresh.
And tonics with BHA-acids, that is salicylic, are excellent for oily and problem skin. And it is they who are able to clean pores, remove black spots and not injure the skin. There are not many alcohol-free tonics on the market, and Paula's Choice Skin Perfecting 2% BHA Liquid Exfoliant is considered the model. Other products from this category are very soft SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age Solution or Stridex Soft Touch Pads 2%. The latter can dry the skin, so it is better to use them only locally. For detailed information on various acids and their areas of application, we recommend that you refer to our monumental material on acids in cosmetics.
Thus, tonics in the care - a thing quite controversial and, of course, not the most necessary. Means with a simple composition based on alcohol do little for the skin and, at best, can only eliminate the tightness after washing. However, soft tonics saturated with additional components can moisturize the skin, nourish it without feeling heavy and act as an independent means of care. Acid tonics may well replace the usual mechanical exfoliation, smooth fine wrinkles, even out the tone and clean the pores, but it does not harm or injure the skin. Therefore, tonic may well be a very useful means of care, if properly pick it up and use.
Photo: Sergey Yarochkin - stock.adobe.com, shishiga - stock.adobe.com, dusk - stock.adobe.com