Trend: Ugly fur
This season, it became clear that the paradox "the worse your fur coat looks, the better" is the basis of most of the collections in which fur is somehow present. Even such stately brands as Fendi or Oscar de la Renta showed fur coats that can be easily imagined on the homeless. Thus, the street trend, which appeared several years ago, finally strengthened its position.
1. 3.1 Phillip Lim Fw 2010 / 3.1 Phillip Lim FW 20102. Acne FW 2010 / Acne FW 20103. Alberta Ferretti FW 2010 / Bottega Veneta FW 20104-5. Altuzarra FW 2010 / Altuzarra FW 20106-8. Burberry Prorsum FW 2010 / Burberry Prorsum FW 20109-11. Chanel FW 2010 / Chanel FW 201012. Chanel FW 2010 / Isabel Marant FW 201013. Chloe FW 2010 / Chloe FW 201014. Dolce & Gabbana FW 2010 / Dolce & Gabbana FW 201015-16. Fendi FW 2010 / Fendi FW 201017. John Galliano FW 2010 / Oscar de la Renta FW 201018. Konstantin Gayday FW 201019. Lanvin FW 2010 / Lanvin FW 201020. Lanvin FW 2010 / Proenza Schouler FW 201021. Maison Martin Margiela FW 2010 / Maison Martin Margiela FW 201022. Marc Jacobs FW 2010 / Marc Jacobs FW 201023. Marc Jacobs FW 2010 / Marni FW 201024. Michael Kors FW 2010 / Michael Kors FW 201025. Michael Kors FW 2010 / Missoni FW 201026. Missoni FW 2010 / Missoni FW 201027. Missoni FW 2010 / Rodarte FW 201028. Reed Krakoff FW 2010 / Reed Krakoff FW 201029. Serguei Teplov FW 2010 / Serguei Teplov FW 201030. Sonia Rykiel FW 2010 / Sonia Rykiel FW 201031. Sonia Rykiel FW 2010 / Sonia Rykiel FW 2010 32-34.Thakoon FW 2010 / Thakoon FW 201035-49. Unique FW 2010 / Unique FW 201040. Gosh Rubchinsky "We grow and develop"41. Vardoui Nazarian for NAFA FW 2010 / Zac Posen FW 201042. Zac Posen FW 2010 / Zac Posen FW 2010 |
Concentration of popularity of fur coats that looked deliberately bad came in the hippie era - the end of the 60s and the beginning of the 70s: the girls and wives of the Rolling Stones, actress Anita Pallenberg, singer Marianna Faithful and model Bianca Jagger were captured in photos of 60-70s fur coats that otherwise can not be described as ugly fur. This, among other things, expressed the hippie rebellion against the bourgeois. Yes, Andy Warhol's muse - Edie Sedgwick, a well-known fur lover - in several pictures in a fur coat, as if taken from the station inhabitants. And in the 90s, rave influence was felt: for some time fur coats of the most incredible colors were in use.
1. Sienna Miller in the film "I seduced Andy Warhol" / Singer Janis Joplin 2. Singer Janice Joplin3. Versace 1992 advertising campaign / singer Janis Joplin 4. Singer Joanna Newsom / singer Marianna Faithful 5. Pink Floyd Group 6. Actress Anita Pallenberg / Actress Anita Pallenberg with her son and husband Keith Richards 7. Actress Anita Pallenberg / Actress and model Gene Shrimpton 8. Edie Sedgwick model 9. Shot from the movie "In Fat" 10. Mick Jagger and model Jerry Hall 11. Singer Marianna Faithful / Kate Hudson in the movie "Almost Famous" 12. Sienna Miller in the movie "Handsome Alfie" 13. Andy Warhol surrounded by Bianchi Jagger and Liza Minelli |
Ugly fur is a characteristic not only of real fur, but also of artificial. Finding such a coat is not a problem now: there is in Zara, in Topshop, and in H & M. A separate topic is ugly fur vintage: fur coats that looked noble 30-40 years ago now represent a pitiful sight. It is for the better: these are the furs most often featured in the blogs of Mr. Newton and The Sartorialist.
1-3. Photos from the blog Jak & Jil 4. Harper's Bazaar fashion director Natalia Alaverdyan / Model Charlotte Kemp Mule and musician Sean Lennon 5. Photo from the Facehunter blog 6. Actress Sienna Miller / Spanish blogger Pelayo Diaz Zapico 7. Blogger Brianboy / Photo from The Sartorialist blog 8-10, 13. Photos from The Sartorialist blog 11. Singer Kanye West 12. Model Agnes Dane 14. Creative Director of Japanese Vogue Anna Dello Russo on The Sartorialist blog / Photo from The Sartorialist blog 15. Stylist Catherine Baba / Singer Lenny Kravitz 16-18. Blogger Gala Gonzalez 19. Blogger Gala Gonzalez / Blogger Rumi Neely 20. Bloggers Gala Gonzalez and Bryanboy 21-26. Blogger Rumi Neely 27, 28. Blogger Jane Alridge 29. Blogger Jane Alridge / Photo from the Facehunter blog 30, 31. Photos from the Facehunter blog32, 33. Group Dead Weather 33. Group Dead Weather 34-38. Photo from the blog Waynetippetts 39. Photo from the blog Waynetippetts / Photo from the blog Mr.Newton 40. Photos from the blog Mr.Newton 41. Photo from the blog Mr.Newton / Model Abby Lee Kershaw in the blog Mr. Newton 42. Actress Chloe Sevigny 43. Model Elena Perminova on Mr Newton blog / Director of Baibakov art projects communications Anna Dulgerova in Gosha Rubchinsky's fur coat44-50. Sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen51-55. Model Kate Moss |
OLGA PETROVA Representative of the North American Fur Auction (NAFA) in Russia Things that are in opposition to the stereotypical “expensive and rich” fur are a true zeitgeist of today's fashion. Choosing furs with character, unusual breeds and contrasting textures, designers pay tribute to the spirit of the times and tastes of the youngest buyers. Fur antiglamor at Gaultier or Zac Posen- These are eccentric experiments with coyote or fisher wild fur. With Luca Luca, Missoni, Prabal Gurung, Marc Jacobs, Hermes or Vardoui Nazarian, these are more restrained accessories and finishes made from raccoon, long-haired or clipped beaver or gray fox — NAFA wild furs of North American origin. These collections rely on the natural, wild nature and uncombed fur. They emphasize not only its alternativeness (compared to the usual bourgeois furs such as mink or fox), but also its proximity to nature. The new slogan of fur fashion - "Fur is green" - puts the fur on a par with organic cotton and flax. With this you can not argue. Young designers have especially succeeded in creating fur alternatives. As part of the project No.W! by NAFA they offered an excellent substitute for boasie and sheepskin coats from grandma's chests. This winter, I'm in love with transformer scarves from Sergey Policov, from a raccoon and a coyote NAFA. This ugly fur is more beautiful and more practical than many fur coats. He has a great future. |
1. i-D, pre-fall 2009 / Actress Chloe Sevigny on the cover of Japanese Numero, December 20072-8. Italian Marie Claire, October 20099. Cover Dazed & Confused, December 2009 / Photography Iris Erlingsdottir, 200910. Dolce & Gabbana Advertising Campaign 200911. Isabel Marant Advertising Campaign12. Russian Vogue, shooting "Golden Fur", November 201013. Rapper P. Diddy and model Kate Moss in American Vogue, 199914. Charlotte Kemp Mühl in the New York Times / Sean Lennon and Charlotte Kemp Mül in Nylon Magazine, February 2010 15. Sean Lennon and Charlotte Kemp Mule in Nylon Magazine, February 201016-19. Shooting French Vogue "Fur Is Dead", August 200820-25. Shooting Italian Vogue "Venus in Furs", November 201026-28. Shooting Fashion Rocks "Here Comes the Sun", 200829-36. Shooting Flair "Inverno", November 201037-40. Shooting of the American Elle "Easy Riders", November 201041-43. Shooting Cover "This is fur real", September 2010 |
VIKA GAZINSKAYA designer I'm not sure that faux fur coats, which designers have so often begun to show in the past two seasons, are due to these designers' concern for animals and nature. This is just another search for design solutions, that's all. To be honest, for me, everything that is made of natural fur is ugly. I use the material, which, in my opinion, is the most beautiful alternative to fur: firstly, it is 100% natural - it is mohair and alpaca (varieties of wool). And even the base fabric, on which woolen fiber is put on, imitating this or that type of fur (I have a karakul, a sheepskin, a goat and a ram) is cotton. I also use cotton lining. It is not only beautiful, but also, no matter how strange it may seem, very warm. I wear it in the winter in our frosts! As for any unusual fur textures, then for the next season (autumn 2011) I ordered colored long-haired “skins” under a shaggy sheep! From the natural, even close you can not tell. I hope they will become a hit - it’s a very beautiful and wildly fashionable look! |
1. Vanhatapio FW 2010 2. Opening Ceremony 3. Opening Ceremony 4. Opening Ceremony 5. Opening Ceremony 6. Sergey Policov for NaFA / No.W! |
ANYA KHRUSTALEVA-HEHT InStyle Editor The fashion for ugly fur is a logical link in the chain called “I spent a lot of money, and I look like a bum”. Oil spots, cracks, creases, raw edges, paint stains - as soon as they didn’t tear their clothes in attempts to at least visually level their cost and status. Came the turn of the fur. The first episode was the spring-summer show of Isabel Marant. The whole collection was hippie-chic, and its highlight was a spotted fox jacket. The jacket was cut from pieces of fur in terrible stains of ocher, rust and brilliant green, and on the whole the bow embodied the image of a city crazy, feeding stray cats. This season, the fur looks deliberately bad. What Oscar de la Renta showed is beyond description at all: some kind of fur herring under a fur coat. If you exaggerate, this trend equalizes the rights of the poor and the rich. Still, fur is an expensive material, not everyone can afford it. A fur coat made of faux fur looks quite fashionable. Another thing is that the same Bottega Veneta asks about 150 thousand for its Cheburahu. I am a big fan of fur coats from both natural fur and its imitations. My first fur coat was a jacket under the astrakhan Sonya Rykiel, then I bought an item of my short pride - Gosha Rubchinsky's fur coat. In alliance with the Belgian trench and intentionally matted hair, the fur coat created the image of "I am an orphan, escaped from the orphanage." Once in it they did not want to let me into the restaurant "Semifredo". In my opinion, this is a standard ugly fur. I would really like a fur coat by Arthur Lomakin. I think he will surpass Gosha in this matter. Now I have three fur coats, two of them are ugly. The first is from a Dior raccoon and silver fox. She resembles a theatrical costume: makes me look like an exaggerated version of the boyfriend Morozova. But I like the fur coat: there is some kind of charm in this simplicity, ostentatious nobility; now it’s not for nothing that everyone wears logos again. I also have a blood-cherry Pucci fur coat from a ram. It looks like a gypsy, but there is something in it. The spirit of Cherkizovsky market. Excellent mohair coats are made by Vika Gazinskaya. They look like snow maiden. In general, I believe that fashion is a big illusion: you do not impersonate who you really are. And the ugly fur is a double illusion. It turns out such a habitual break: the sky is blue, the grass is green, and the fur is shiny and beautiful. A fur coat made from ugly fur is secret knowledge. A kind of secret bed. |
1. Anna Sui, £ 259.57 2. Topshop Handbag, £ 35.00 3. Elizabeth and James, £ 565.96 4. Halston Heritage £ 544.68 5. Issa, £ 553.19 6. Juicy Couture, £ 204.26 7. Topshop, £ 59.00 8. Topshop, £ 59.001 9. Topshop, £ 80.00 10. Topshop, £ 195.00 11. Topshop hat, £ 22.00 12. Topshop scarf, £ 18.00 13. Topshop hat 14. Bess jacket, £ 1,251. 15. Vest Topshop, £ 75.00 16. Topshop, £ 95.00 17. Topshop, £ 95.00 18. Topshop, £ 98.00 19. Topshop, £ 120.00 20. Topshop, £ 220.00 21. Topshop, £ 250.00 22. Vanessa Bruno, £ 893.62 23 Lovas Wesley Badanjiak for NAFA 24-28. Zara |