Tuxedos in the autumn-winter collections

IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months.

In this issue, we understand why designers offer to wear a tuxedo this fall.

How it all began

Women wore tuxedos at the beginning of the last century: remember the androgynous German woman Marlene Dietrich in Joseph von Sternberg’s Morocco. However, evening suits made of jackets with satin lapels and trousers with a wide satin belt became extremely popular in 1966. You probably know that that year Yves Saint Laurent wore tuxedo girls. "Yves Saint Laurent resists the domination of elegance," wrote Women's Wear Daily. Of course, the costume design itself cannot be called revolutionary: it is already two hundred years old. However, Yves Saint Laurent successfully chose the moment. In the late 60s, women sought to gain independence and be on equal footing with men, and outwardly there was little that could emphasize this better than borrowing clothes from a man’s wardrobe. Proof - paradoxical at first glance, the words of Catherine Deneuve: "The best in tuxedos is that they are easy to wear, and they emphasize femininity."

Since the 1970s, everyone is wearing a tuxedo: Bianca Perez Morena de Macias marries Mick Jagger in it, and Helmut Newton takes pictures of Vibeke Knudsen and Charlotte Rampling in tuxedos for Vogue. How to wear a tuxedo in the 2000s, Stella McCartney and Phoebe Faylo showed by example: he became a uniform for them when it came to parties and other celebrations. The fact that the tuxedo will certainly appear in the collections of the last two seasons, it became clear with the return of designer Edie Sliman to Saint Laurent. This was hinted not only by the legacy of the brand entrusted to him, but also by the fact that in the early 2000s, Sliman, then the creative director of Dior Homme, dressed in tight suits of guys (and the girls of these guys who complained about the lack of well-tailored suits in women's collections) .

How to wear tuxedos

Perhaps, now in everyday life, you can even wear lace dresses, shirts, but tuxedos remain a suit for the evening. Many, like the French House Hermès, show off a classic tuxedo fabric with glitter, which you can only wear at a party with a black tie dress code. Diesel Black Gold and Cédric Charlier make them a part of the outfit for every day: the first are advised to wear a lapel jacket with leather trousers, and the second suggest combining a voluminous sweater with trousers with a wide satin belt. The most intricate interpretation of the brand is the sisters Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen The Row: they show dresses that look like a mixture of kimono and tuxedos, as well as warm jackets that resemble a tuxedo jacket.

BEWARE!

Tuxedo - an investment for a decade, so be careful with the costumes from the mass market, which can serve a relatively short time. No matter how trite it may sound, it is better to invest in a well-cut suit of wool and silk. Pay attention to the proposals of one of the brands that they ate in a dog tuxedo - Helmut Lang or Narciso Rodriguez.