Bare shoulders in spring-summer collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how designers today offer to expose shoulders, maximally emphasizing sexuality.
How it all began
Fashion exploits sexuality for many centuries. Bare shoulders, like bare hips, are just one of the ways to show it. Open shoulders symbolize athleticism and strength, and an asymmetrical cut, which opens them, is associated primarily with ancient Greek and Roman togas. In the footsteps of antiquity, Empress Eugene in the middle of the 19th century wore dresses with open shoulders and crinolines, created by the first fashion couturier Charles Worth in the history of fashion. Here you can recall the picture of Franz Xaver Winterhalter "Empress Eugene surrounded by maids of honor" of 1855, which depicts women in dresses with bare shoulders.
The next wave of popularity of bare shoulders is associated with the birth of glamor in the 30s of the XX century and the golden era of Hollywood. Suffice it to recall what kind of asymmetrical dress Claudette Colbert wore in Cleopatra in 1934, a dress on thin straps Carol Lombard in Nothing Saints, sexy outfits Mei West in She Did Not Fair with Him and, of course, Jean Harlow in Dinner in eight "- Gilbert Adrian tailored for her outfits, who headed the" wardrobe "Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer film studio and worked with Madame Vihonne's technology.
Asymmetrical dresses, overalls and one-shoulder leotards were popular in the seventies discos in the walls of Studio 54. American designer Roy Halston, whose heir subsequently became Calvin Klein, offered just such flowing things on one shoulder of bright colors: orange, pink, turquoise from elastic synthetic materials with draperies that his star friends wore from Lauren Bacall to Bianchi Jagger. In the 80s, the heroes of the Dynasty series, whose costumes are quoted in their collections by Karl Lagerfeld, wear bare shoulders.
In the 90s, Calvin Klein offers off-the-shoulder sheath dresses, and in the early 2000s asymmetrical dresses flash on the pages of magazines — such as Versace, Gucci, as well as young designers interested in commercial success. For example, Jason Wu creates a cruise collection in 2009, with a dress with an asymmetrical top that Michelle Obama puts on at the inauguration ball - Jason Wu will be recognized all over the world overnight. In 2010, Raf Simons, during his work at Jil Sander’s house, shows a classic tweed dress with cropped shoulders, from which a T-shirt is visible - today we see a similar way to work with tweed in the Chanel collections.
How to wear things with bare shoulders now
Of course, most designers are positioning things with bare shoulders as evening dresses. But we are well aware that in the heat, another reason to bare the body will not be superfluous, since this summer, the things that open shoulders are enough in the designers' collections. Jonathan Anderson has asymmetric tops, decorated with fringe, Karl Lagerfeld in the Chanel collection has tweed jackets with bare shoulders, asymmetrical dresses and tops, and Stella McCartney has evening dresses in a linen style. Marco Dzanini for Rochas and Raf Simons for Dior have neat evening dresses on one shoulder. Eddie Sliman shows this summer a lot of dresses and tops resembling large candies and opening shoulders, Christopher Kane - cut-out sweatshirts, Marques'Almeida - asymmetric tops with raw edges. Miuccia Prada opens shoulders completely.
The fact that bare shoulders will remain with us a year later, says a few facts. Designers who feel the most subtle and set trends show asymmetrical things with bare shoulders in future seasons: in the Phoebe Faylo Faylo for Céline collection, thick wool tops and dresses with nap, Christopher Kane, Raf Simons for Dior and Jonathan Anderson show all kinds of dresses.
Watch out!
Bare shoulders, as you know, look quite sexy, so during the day it’s better to wear things with bare shoulders with something modest: comfortable shoes on a flat run (boots, sneakers, slipons, birkenstocks), light trousers, and a midi-length skirt. Dress on one strap will help to wear and put on a crop top or knitwear. By the way, Miuccia Prada spoke out before anyone about bare shoulders and layering in the fall collection of 2013, showing open-shoulder dresses with cardigans.
It is worth avoiding things with bare shoulders and draperies in the key of the 70s. The most interesting things are things that were not originally intended for such a cut: for example, strict jackets, shirts that have shoulders cut off. In the fall, an asymmetrical top or sweater can be worn on top of clothes, for example, as in the Thakoon and 3.1 Phillip Lim pre-collection, leaving one shoulder open.
PHOTO: Getty Images / Fotobank (4)