7 rare brands of clothing from the exhibition Pitti Super
September 20 to 23 in sunny Milan an exhibition of clothes Pitti Super. Wonderzine editor Lisa Kologreeva went to the event to view new collections of two hundred brands from around the world. Now she tells how the trade show is arranged, and selects remarkable brands that are difficult to find in Russian stores.
While Milan Fashion Week was scolded for not wanting to think in the spirit of the times — at least Business Creator Imran Amed and International Herald Tribune journalist Suzy Menkes — in Italy came to the fore a progressive platform that also allows designers to show their work to fashion industry professionals . We are talking about Pitti Immagine, a system of exhibitions of clothing (as well as gastronomy, flavors and fabrics) throughout the year. Thanks to her, you can learn about young brands, as well as about brands with a history that do not chase the grandiose podium shows. It is not entirely correct to compare the exhibition of clothes with Fashion Week, and Pitti Immagine has existed since the 1950s, but among competitors it is considered the most influential platform - only the famous Tranoï is close to it in scale.
The most famous exhibitions in the family are Pitti Uomo and Pitti W, a trade show in sunny Florence, which are known for being invited guests like Kolor and Rodarte, as well as the most elegant visitors. Also in the family - an exhibition of the perfume industry Pitti Fragranze, which we recently talked about, Pitti Bimbo, Pitti Filati and Pitti Taste. This fall, in Milan, the second season of the Pitti Super was held - a brand new trade show, which opens in sync with Milan Fashion Week. The exhibition is taking place in a giant exhibition center with rough concrete ceilings, walls and floors, which is being renovated (large Italian Homes used to be shown here). Here are about two and a half hundred marks, the stands of which are separated from each other by white partitions. Most of them are Italians, there are also Spaniards, Germans and French, you can meet Ukrainians - there were stands at Sasha Kanevsky and Svetlana Bevza. A significant part of the brands offers things for the mass consumer: there are T-shirts with ironic inscriptions, jeans with prints and sneakers on the platform. As they explain to us, such collections attract a large flow of buyers, who can turn their attention to the less widely replicated items, which we tell about.
Alessia Xoccato is one of the winners of the Italian Vogue contest "Who Is On Next?". A native of Venice since childhood, was fond of architecture, and this influenced her vision of clothing. The girl creates cloaks and dresses, flared from the chest, coat-cocoons and oval-like skirts. There are in her collections more suitable for everyday life things - tight shirts and midi shorts. In the new season, Alessia is experimenting with a weaving of light green color: from this material, which feels like a Chinese mat to the touch, cropped tops, sheath dresses and clutches are sewn.
Herno is a brand created by a married couple, which is common in Italy. From 1948, Alessandra Diana and Giuseppe Marendzi created outerwear for women and men. In the latest collection of the brand there is everything that is needed for the Russian bad weather: these are voluminous coats with nylon linings and very light down jackets with high deaf collars that look elegant, which is rare for this type of clothing. Herno can be trusted unconditionally: the brand produces outerwear for Hermes, Jil Sander and Prada.
Eulalia b - a brand with a distinct aesthetics. Her creator is from Barcelona, but she produces all her clothes in Italy. These are girls' dresses, reminiscent of the fashion of the 1950s and 1960s. The clothes are rather uncomplicated and certainly commercially successful: simple summer dresses made of peach cotton with neutral patterns are needed by every girl. The key items in the spring-summer collection of the brand are jackets and dresses in the floor of mint-pink jacquard, as well as dresses with flowers in the form of roses. They are easy to present in the assortment of Click-boutique.ru.
Because of the dominance of mass production, manual labor began to be valued especially highly. This is understood by the Swede Jimi Rousse, who was educated in Italy and decided to stay in Florence. Each of his T-shirts is made of organic cotton and almost entirely by hand: oddly enough, he uses machine labor only to create fine embroidery, which at first glance seems rather sloppy - her designer calls wrong stitching. Rus came up with a machine that puts embroidery in a special, as if hand-made, technique, but the designer completes each embroidery independently. In the new collection of Jimi Roos - T-shirts with embroideries with bananas and dolls, as well as tops with collars and peas. Especially Rusu succeed T-shirts with embroidery with stripes: this is a fresh look at the classic sailor vests.
For MA'RY'YA is Korean designer Maria Icho, who has placed its production in Italy. Perhaps this is one of the most unbanal brands of basic things. She produces woolen cardigans and jumpers in white and gray, some of which are sewn without a single seam. MA'RY'YA can solve the eternal problem of finding a simple T-shirt - the brand has soft cotton, stretched and voluminous. Tops MA'RY'YA sell Farfetch and Yoox, one of the largest online clothing stores, at very reasonable prices, especially for items made from natural fabrics.
Another brand, which is trusted by the production of their clothing large houses - Lardini. The company, founded in the 70s, was at various times responsible for the men's suits of the giants Etro, Salvatore Ferragamo and Versace. Under his own name, Lardini has recently launched the women's line. On the Pitti Super, they show jackets and raincoats made of soft-touch linen, cotton and silk. The brand focuses on soft colors - cream, peach and sandy; it does both things of clean lines and clothes from pressed fabrics. Attention should be paid to double-sided trench coats: on the one hand, they are cotton, and on the other, nylon, which adds a plus to the rain.
Brand Rains exists only a year, but it already has hundreds of stores across Europe. What is easy to understand: in Britain, Scandinavia and France, light raincoats are worn very often, which cannot be said of Russia, where warm weather, coupled with rain, costs two weeks a year. A raincoat of rains — made of light matte fabric and with ideally smooth lines — is worth buying even if you wear it once a year. Rains offers basic khaki jackets and raincoats, there are also models in yellow and orange, and recently the Danish company began to produce rubber boots and bags. It's nice that at retail these things cost no more than 100 euros. Another direction in the work of the brand - joint collections with local designers. So, she made a line with the famous Mads Nørgaard brand in all of Scandinavia.