Linen theme: shirts and combinations during the day

In the new category, Wonderzine talks about trends from the catwalk, which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand why designers again offer to wear underwear that was at its peak 20 years ago.

How it all began

From the 1920s, shirts made of cotton or silk were worn as underwear, which is not surprising: women just took off their dresses with corsets and began to wear more simple things. However, in the era of Art Deco, the floppers danced in dresses on the straps of a trapezoid silhouette, like shirts, and in the next decade, actress Jean Harlow appeared in shirts on the floor in films and in public. In the 1960s, fashion becomes more relaxed, and dresses and tops on the straps are demonstrated by one of the key designers of the era, Andre Kurrej: then Vogue takes them off, which means the beginning of legitimization of shirts as casual clothes. Since then, underwear and homewear become part of the wardrobe for every day. Recall, for example, the Russian princess Irene Galitsina, who worked on a line of pajamas for daily wear in Greece. The final underwear as outerwear was established in the late 1980s. It is believed that this happens under the influence of Madonna and her many admirers, who adopted the tendency set by her.

Since the 1990s, dress shirts have become as popular as any other dress model - shirt or case. At that time, Calvin Klein gold and silver dresses with straps are becoming a hit. A little later, interest in them spurred the film "Stupid": remember the famous scene where Alicia Silverstone wears a tight dress on the straps and to the question of her father "Who said that this dress?" replies: "Calvin Klein". “A shirt is a basic thing, like a white T-shirt. It can be worn completely differently every season,” says Badgley Mischka, an American duo in the mid-90s. Designer Nicole Miller adds: "A dress-shirt is a dual-purpose thing. You can wear it in the morning with another dress like this or with a cropped top, or you can wear it all without it in the evening." Since then, they flash in the collections of the chief designers of the 90s: from John Galliano, who often showed them at the time of work in Dior, to Narciso Rodriguez. A couple of years ago, at the height of the fashion for fetish, shirts-dresses revive the brands Diane von Furstenberg and Givenchy, and since then they have not left the catwalks.

How to wear clothes in linen style

Now dress shirts are primarily perceived as part of an evening dress. In Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton, they are sewn of velvet and silk: they are combined with fur collars and sandals. Christopher Kane proposes to combine a mini-dress on the straps, embroidered with plastic stones, with ankle boots made of patent leather. Jonathan Saunders invented a tight lace dress-shirt with appliqués: perhaps the bustier and the famous grandmother’s underwear should be put on under it, as the British show stylists do. The dress-shirt becomes a part of an everyday garedrob from Saint Laurent: the designer sews it from a simple fabric with a floral print and combines with cardigans and fur coats. If you are afraid of risking with a shirt, try a lingerie top. It can be worn with simple trousers and skirts and, of course, a jacket.

BEWARE!

The dress-shirt can be styled as linen, but it is not a shame to buy it from the brand of clothes for sleeping - as is the case with pajamas. In any case, in such a risk to look ambiguous. For everyday life, you should choose a shirt made of matte silk not longer than the knee and combine it, for example, with a baggy cardigan or a cropped sweater. The evening dress can be decorated with lace inserts: a bomber jacket or a jacket can be thrown over such a dress-shirt. The most acceptable shoes in this case - massive, like loafers on a grooved sole. Tops on the straps should not be combined with skirts and mini length shorts, as well as with pencil skirts with cuts - this is likely to look vulgar.