Deer antlers: Can horns be used in the production of cosmetics?
This week, the Muscovite Marina Zaitseva published on his Facebook page post that caused a lively discussion. She drew attention to the fact that the cosmetic brand Natura Siberica uses pantocrinum - a substance that is obtained from the immature antlers of antlers; once a year they are cut off from live animals. Marka explained that in their case, production was legal and controlled, and also arranged a vote in her instagram. Today, the company announced that since April 2, it has refused to use pantokrin in its products. The situation, however, continues to be discussed. We asked experts about the possibilities of producing ethical cosmetics in Russia.
Is the use of such components justified in cosmetics? Of course not. Because there are a lot of vegetable and synthetic substances, which, unlike antlers, are well researched for effectiveness. Is it justified to use them as medicine? Most likely not either. Much more correct solution would be to take these horns, study what is so cool in them, and try to find the same thing in a different way - in plants or with the help of synthesis. This is a working and good scheme: hyaluronic acid was extracted from the crests of roosters for a very long time, but now it is successfully synthesized by bacteria. But, of course, this is a matter of large budgets.
It seems to me that it is worth remembering that besides the ethical problem there is an economic problem. In Siberia, a huge number of people work on the harvesting of antlers and the maintenance of deer, and this is their only income. What happens if the production of antlers is sharply forbidden, in my opinion, obviously. This, of course, does not mean that it is necessary to continue to develop this craft, but it is also impossible to prohibit it momentarily, because a lot of people will remain without means of livelihood. But gradually reduce production, replacing it with alternatives, definitely worth it. We should start with at least anesthesia: the RSPCA writes on its website that an acceptable method of trimming the horns is under local or general anesthesia.
And all this concerns not only horns, but in general any materials of animal origin, be it leather for bags or animal collagen, - everything that can be easily replaced by non-animal sources. There are dozens if not hundreds of companies in Russia that use pantokrin in cosmetics or medicines. Here, and creams, and supplements for potency, and drugs - anything. Failure of one company will not affect large-scale fishing, but at least half - yes.
I would not like to condemn anyone in this situation - I, of course, am not familiar with the internal affairs of the company, but I can compare it with how it happens in our country. We do not test anything on animals and do not use components of animal origin, but not according to the requirements of the legislation, but because we want to respect the ethical attitude to such things. Many people wear leather shoes and leather clothes, eat meat - and for this animals kill, rather than cut off the same horns (which is also, of course, completely inhumane). I do not defend or condone the company, which was accused of cruelty, but another problem is that in Russia such processes are almost not regulated by law. Simply put, the state makes it possible to do this.
In connection with this question, I also thought about the fact that in principle we do not have an ideology of ethical and conscious attitude towards the consumption of cosmetics. The culture of ethical production is very young, and not all brands can afford to adhere to this idea without loss. The SERGEY NAUMOV brand does not have its own production, we work under a contract using European and American ingredients - it is easier to find enterprises that do not use animals in any capacity.
As far as I know, Natura Siberica has its own production in different countries, and they are engaged in care, and not make-up. It is unlikely that they do not know where and how components are mined. It is important for me that animals do not kill at the same time, but nevertheless it is terrible that deer feel pain - I do not support this method, no matter how well pantokrin affects the skin.
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