Russian designers about sanctions, DPS form and church couture
Olesya Iva
FROM 20 TO 22 SEPTEMBER IN MILAN an exhibition of clothes Pitti Super. We went to the event to see new collections of two hundred brands from around the world. Among them, the Open Russian Fashion corner was presented this year in Italy. Against the backdrop of a flourishing western fashion, we talked about Russian realities with four brands: LES 'by Lesia Paramonova, Luda Nikishina, Georgy Rushev and osome2some.
About possible sanctions
What would the life of Russians and our designers look like if the authorities nevertheless accepted second-level sanctions and after the jamon banned luxury goods, European, Japanese and American brands?
George Rushev
I hardly believe that we will return back to the Soviet regime, the emptiness of shop windows and dictatorship. In Europe, as in Russia itself, our brands know very little. If we restrict exports, we will start producing more at home. Perhaps this will encourage Russian brands to become the same property of the country as Michael Kors or Alexander Wang in America. After all, the problem is, in fact, a small demand for our design. Of course, there are examples of successful designers, but they make a purely commercial product, not a unique one. For example, among the decorations, unfortunately, the basic form, the plaque for jewelery and Swarovski crystals are popular. Innovation is perceived with difficulty. People are afraid of the new.
Luda Nikishina
Sanctions will not affect China and other southeastern countries, sheathing and clothing half the world. What does this mean? The vacant niche will be taken by cheap mass-market-clothes from Asian factories. However, half of the suite is made there a long time ago - it will just be imported from these countries. But the growth of Russian brands can correct the situation. In Russia in recent years, there have been so many young brands that people are purposefully looking for things of our design, and for this, a lot of work has been done. After all, only a good product can convince people to buy Russian.
Lesya Paramonova
Exactly, the government should be more attentive and cooperate with local designers and brands. However, Russian brands of ambition are many, but there is no concept. Everything is very raw. I do not know whether Russian designers will be ready to occupy these freed cells. For example, I write a new fairy tale every time, and clothing is just a way to tell it. I have inspired things. These are costumes for the heroes of my fairy tales, like in a theater!
Anna Andrienko, Natalia Buzakova
Another possible problem is European fabrics. We have never worked with Russian fabrics. If the import of Italian materials is prohibited, it is difficult to imagine what we will do. Probably switch to the Chinese, among which you can find tech and quality. Sanctions are dangerous because they can affect the minds of consumers. After all, when the market is open - consciousness is open. When everything is closed - you want to go beyond the limits and look for inaccessible, which means desirable things.
About obstacles for local designers
before you face sanctions it would be worth creating All the prerequisites for the successful work of Russian brands. What are you missing now?
Lesya Paramonova
In Russia, there is no concept of producing fashion, that is, there are no professional brand managers. This is an empty field. But they decide the commercial and technical aspects, communicate with the buyers. Even being the first time at the international exhibition at Pitti Super, I see how many subtleties exist. Properly designed price lists, order sheets and other documents. I think many universities should think about introducing a course on producing fashion. For example, I have specific ideas of the program for introducing it to universities: producing fashion, creative practical classes of design and digital.
I would suggest restarting old factories like the Three-Mountain Manufactory. This is a whole manufactory that manufactures fabrics - one hundred percent Russian product, which now looks bad in fact and is not needed by anyone. From it sew sheets and towels. Why not recruit a team of cool designers so that they develop prints for Trekhgorka and produce cool fabrics that could participate in professional international fabric exhibitions? It will be a Russian product, authentic from and to. I am absolutely ready to develop illustrations and designs for the capsule collection of such fabrics. It is not clear, really, to whom to write a letter with this proposal.
George Rushev
To create my jewelry I use my own technologies and work with the Ural masters, and I bring stones from India, with which Russia is friends, or I find some improvised materials in our country. So I do not expect difficulties. But I know that those who work with textiles, it is difficult. Most Russian factories are sharpened for the production of a utilitarian product such as a uniform. No one will rebuild the machines under your patterns.
Luda Nikishina
I do not have enough personnel, craftsmen, hands, tailors, designers. Why Russian clothes are going up? Because the salaries of tailors and the competition for them grow. The tailor profession is rare today, and their wages have increased by 70 percent in recent years.
Anna Andrienko Natalya Buzakova
We do not have enough professional buyers who make an order in advance, on time, and pay for it, and do not take on the implementation.
On the alternative to foreign goods
For example, at our facilities and factories it will be possible to launch Russian goods into mass production in order to fill the niche of disappeared foreign goods. What would you suggest?
Lesya Paramonova
I would suggest creating a Russian mass-market-brand, like Zara or H & M, where you would sell both fashionable and basic things, as well as home furnishings, children's things: LES 'Home, LES' Kids. Beautiful, affordable and high-quality things. I could even design a wallpaper.
Luda Nikishina
I would suggest a warmed gray cashmere double-breasted coat with a collar and a wool lining. Then - a blue lamb fur coat. Sheepskin is democratic. After all, the mink will never become fashionable, it ages women. I would also suggest basic sweatshirts.
George Rushev
I would return to the depths, to the roots and sources of the Russian accessory, but adapted to life. Combs, kerchiefs. For example, I launched this hair combs this summer. Therefore, I would suggest elegant "Combs from George" (laughs).
Anna Andrienko and Natalia Buzakova
We would suggest a classic elegant coat-dressing gown, a high-waist skirt, and a shirt-dress.
On civil servants uniform
In Russia, the production of utilitarian things is relatively well established. the state likes to arrange tenders for the creation of a particular uniform. For what scope and what product could you offer?
George Rushev
I could work with churches and sew robes or theaters. Small handicraft, crowns, decoration of things, theatrical couture - absolutely my story.
Lesya Paramonova
Theater is very cool. I would take up not only the costumes, but also as a production designer. Maybe even in the children's theater. Right now I am writing and illustrating a children's book. I would also suggest a design / rebranding for the Botanical Garden, which represents Russia with its flora and fauna. I could make it a new logo and own style. Russian institutions lack the character and the right imagery.
Anna Andrienko and Natalia Buzakova
We could come up with a form for the flight attendants. It would be a pencil skirt with interesting tucks and beautiful cuts and modern details, for example with a sloping pocket. It would be a beautiful blouse and jacket. All figure, but modern.
Luda Nikishina
I manage outerwear. So overcoats for the guards and DPS officers are my story.
About the ideal era
It is believed that we do not live in the best of times. what era would you prefer to be in now?
George Rushev
I would like to get into the future. I would like to see an advanced 3D printer so that it can be handled as easily as printing on paper. He would work with any forms and materials.
Luda Nikishina
I would also like to see the future, get a hundred years ahead, come back and get rich. Although the future scares me. It seems to me that in the future manual labor will be worth its weight in gold. This will be a craft from the archives of the museum. Surely everything will be automated, and the coat will appear from a mobile phone.
Anna Andrienko and Natalia Buzakova
We would like to get to hippie America of the 70s, because we started our brand as hippies, creating hippie silk things on our knees. In the 70s you could see all the icons of the past and get to the concert of The Beatles, Led Zeppelin.
Lesya Paramonova
I would have gone to the Mesozoic era, when dinosaurs lived and ferns grew around, giant strange plants and where there were no people. There I would be inspired for the rest of my life.