The perfumer about the movie: How to smell "Star Wars", "Intergirl" and "Pulp Fiction"
Last week, Cosmotheca introduced a new fragrance. perfume brand Olfactive Studio. The brand adheres to the synesthetic concept: each perfume begins with a snapshot of one of the modern French photographers. Then everything depends on the free aromatic fantasies of the creator Celine Werler and her team. We decided to check how it works, and showed Celine fragments of the favorite films of the editorial board - and she told us how they would sound if they were enclosed in bottles, choosing mainly from her scents, for which it is possible to find analogs, guided by the similarity of notes and moods .
Everything about my mother
1999, dir. Pedro Almodovar
The hysterical and multi-colored melodrama of Pedro Almodovar about everything at once is a female world in which they search for the missing father, learn to love and accept death.
the choice Olga Lukinskaya, editor of the Health section
Celine
They touch themselves all the time, that is, we need something very sensual. I imagine some kind of musky scent with animal notes, a sexy smell to match the tension in the shown scene. And when I see explosive bright colors, I immediately start thinking about spices. If you choose from my flavors - it looks like a new Close Up (cherry, tonka bean, coffee, white tobacco and spices).
Woman influenced
1974, dir. John cassavetes
Portraitist and anthropologist from the world of cinema, John Cassavetes made films that are relevant to this day. “Woman Influenced,” in which the heroine goes mad in front of her husband and relatives, who prefer not to notice anything, is one of the director’s strongest social statements.
the choice beauty section editor Margarita Virova
Celine
Contrast scent that makes flinch. Something very unstable, constantly changing. It is very difficult to convey mental instability in fragrance, and there are less and less concrete examples in perfumery. This is similar to the Comme des Garçons perfumes, the same frankly extreme and often uncomfortable for someone.
Star Wars IV: New Hope
1977, dir. George Lucas
Eternal classics, which grew into an eternal franchise: "Star Wars" left a significant imprint on the popular ideas about the cosmos and the world of the future (although there it all happened a long time ago), in which there is room for understandable human relationships.
the choice Deputy Editor-in-Chief Dasha Tatarkova
Celine
I adore "Star Wars", I saw them all! To me immediately, naturally, other planets are introduced - this means that the fragrance must be, to put it mildly, very original. We need completely unearthly smells, different from our world. Mysterious aroma, which is difficult to understand right away: there should not be recognizable components in it. We also see war and a lot of weapons; for me the smell of war is smoke. I have Ombre Indigo (leather, plum, saffron, vetiver, gray amber), in which there are a lot of smoky notes, and it seems to me like this film.
Harry Potter and the prisoner of Azkaban
2004, dir. Alfonso Cuarón
Books, on which many of us grew up, taught to be kind and honest. In the film it is interesting to follow the visible embodiment of the world of JK Rowling - patronus, dementors, spells, potions and back streets of Hogwarts - especially in the masterful performance of Cuaron.
the choice editor of the "Life" section of Sasha Savina
Celine
The first thing that comes to mind: the fragrance should be a "magic potion." In such a strange world, we cannot use dark and heavy smells. We need something that can protect us. In my Lumière Blanche fragrance (cardamom, anise, musk, sandalwood, white cedar), this scene is very similar: it ends in a snow-white shine, but I felt a match before I saw the final. The scent of defensive magic is, of course, light and transparent.
Intergirl
1989. dir. Peter Todorovsky
One of the most popular films of perestroika is famous, in particular, for its frankness unprecedented in its time. The human images of prostituted women, created by Lyubov Polishchuk and Elena Yakovleva, are dramatic and touching - especially against the backdrop of the crumbling Soviet way of life.
the choice Deputy Editor-in-Chief Elena Nuryaeva
Celine
I, frankly, imagine the ingredients that can shock. I see women who are brightly dressed and made-up; they would probably look for a scent that should attract very much. This is very similar to Dior Poison (plum, frankincense, honey, coriander, vanilla) - something strong and uncompromising.
July rain
1967, dir. Marlene Hutsiev
One of the main Soviet films rethinking the life of a talented and bright, but still lost generation of the 60s. The most amazing thing is that it was poetically and in detail captured on the Moscow film of that era.
the choice editor of the section "Style" Dasha Kniazeva
Celine
The music is very joyful, but people are not so - a bright contrast. I want to think about the aroma that protects against dullness, rain and moisture. It should be joyful, like music, perhaps it is floral or citrus notes. I have a sparkling Flash Back fragrance (rhubarb, vetiver, grapefruit, red pepper and apple) - maybe it’s not very similar to the picture, but it rhymes perfectly with the musical fragment. Such a joyful perfume soundtrack.
Kingdom of the full moon
2012, dir. Wes anderson
Fantasy Wes Anderson on adult relationships children. On the one hand, a really good fairy tale, on the other - a complex drama. The constant style of the director, a lover of symmetry and harmonious palettes, of course, on the spot.
the choice the editor of the section "News" Ksyusha Petrova
Celine
This is a strange world: it is childish, but at the same time very difficult. Olfactory associations are hard to find, because you can’t add some "childish" light notes to such a composition and limit it to that. I would go in the direction of unusual ingredients and strange combinations, which, at first glance, can not be combined in one composition. Citrus notes are often associated with childhood, and woody ones would be responsible for mysteriousness - this is how this controversial combination of "childish" and "adult" would be born. My Panorama fragrance (herb, fig, wasabi, cardamom, lemon and myrrh), for example, is this: here is an unusual mixture of wasabi (which, in fact, is not used in perfumery) with myrrh.
Napoleon Dynamite
2004, dir. Jared hess
The cult film that gave us, perhaps, the most vivid image of a school outsider who has ever appeared on the screen. But Napoleon Dynamite, as we remember, everything turned out.
the choice Entertainment section editor Ani Airapetova
Celine
This time it was easy! I have already worked with this theme, with disco motifs, and from this music, light and mirror balls, the aroma Still Life (yuzu, anise, pepper, rum) has turned out. This is a one hundred percent cocktail, explosive and bright. I think this character he would have approached - at least to his state of mind and mood.
Boys do not Cry
1999, dir. Kimberley pierce
The tragic story of a girl who identified herself as a man and was brutally murdered is based on real events. Chloe Sevigny and Hillary Swank's wonderful acting work reveals this plot on an epic scale - almost Shakespeare's impossible love.
the choice correspondent Natasha Fedorenko
Celine
Is it Chloe Sevigny? And they are all teenagers? Very difficult. They are a little shy, fake when they sing - these are people who have not yet grown up. Could it be Mugler Angel (the classic version with chocolate, patchouli, honey and cotton candy)? With the main character is much more complicated, the sweet girlish smell doesn’t look like her. She needs a unisex fragrance, a real classic eau de cologne with fresh citrus notes - for example, Guerlain Jicky, the first unisex citrus fragrance in history.
Pulp Fiction
1994, dir. Quentin Tarantino
The film, which is not seen except that living in a vacuum. Vincent Vega and Mia Wallace are iconic characters who will remain truly stylish for another hundred years, and we remember their dances by heart.
the choice editor-in-chief Julia Taratuty
Celine
Dancing woman, beautiful image. She looks very feminine, but dances at the same time for herself. This woman is strong, open, she splashes out, and her scent should be very sensual. If in this era they took selfies, then this would be it. I have the perfect fragrance for Uma Thurman in this role: he is called Selfie (with maple syrup, suede, frankincense, sandalwood and oak moss).
Only lovers will survive
2013, dir. Jim Jarmusch
Jim Jarmusch's film poem about eternal love and eternal life is, above all, infinitely beautiful: we have not seen such vampires before, and the director’s reverent attitude to the visual side of production is obliged to watch “Lovers” exclusively on the big screen.
the choice Senior designer Dasha Chertanova
Celine
Gently love Tilda Swinton. It sounds gentle, very calm music. And what a strange couple! I see a rather warm smell, but with character. I would illustrate this scene with the scent of Chambre Noire (plum, leather, incense, sandalwood and patchouli). Plum gives a feeling of comfort, and the surrounding notes are responsible for sensuality, which is very similar to this film and its atmosphere.
Photo: Olfactive Studio (1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8), Comme des Garçons, Dior, Rive Gauche