Two in one: Jumpsuit as an alternative to blouses and pants
We are restarting the "trend" rubric,where we talk about new trends from the podium, which can be adapted for your wardrobe. In this issue, we understand why at the peak of popularity - overalls, referring to the fashion of several decades, from the 1960s to the 1980s. And also demonstrate how to wear overalls, in practice.
How it all began
Jumpsuit - utilitarian and futuristic thing at the same time. Initially, he thought for the needs of pilots and parachutists, and later appeared in the wardrobe of astronauts and race drivers. At the same time the jumpsuit has always been a self-sufficient thing. It is not surprising that at the beginning of the 20th century, futurists and avant-gardists began to call coveralls with a “new man” uniform and suggested replacing them with all other clothes. Overalls came to women's wardrobe in 1919 thanks to Italian designer Florentin Tayatu. Florentin worked with Madeleine Vionne, fond of astronomy and industrial design. His version referred to the men's original jumpsuit free cut. In addition to Florentin in the 20s and 30s, overalls were offered to wear in Italy by Elsa Schiaparelli, and in Russia by Alexander Rodchenko and Varvara Stepanova. The people of the future in Rodchenko’s performance in the play “The Bug” by Mayakovsky were dressed in overalls, with light hats on their heads that looked like aviators' helmets. For the play "The Death of Tarelkin" Stepanova also offered overalls.
The overalls will come into fashion again in the 60s in the wake of a new hobby of futurism. It is enough to recall at least the costumes for the original “Star Trek” of the second half of the 60s. Overalls have always loved the Italian, not only in the 20s, but also in the 60s. So, the princess and the Italian fashion designer Iren Golitsyna in the 60s demonstrated their “palazzo pajama” at Pitti in Florence. The overalls of Golitsyna had wide loose leg, referring to the pajamas. Palazzo pajama was worn by celebrities from Diana Vreeland to Elizabeth Taylor. In addition, in the 60s, thanks to musicians, overalls entered men's fashion: Elvis Presley wore a gold-cut jumpsuit with a cut on his chest, David Bowie posed in a surreal striped suit, and Freddie Mercury wore the one that completely revealed the hairy chest and abdomen. The peak of women's fashion overalls happened in the 70s and 80s. Following Sher and Diana Ross, the girls wore first overalls in neon colors and then with patch shoulders and narrowed trousers. It is enough to recall the film "Valley Girl" in 1983 with a young Nicholas Cage and photographs from parties in the cult club "Studio 54".
How to wear overalls now
During the crisis, the return of the fashion for overalls is more than ever. By buying a jumpsuit, you will kill two birds with one stone, because it will replace both dresses and trousers with shirts. Next spring, the brands offer overalls of two options: the most simple free cut and pure colors (such are in the collections of Elizabeth and James, Céline, Kenzo, Balenciaga) or the industrial look boxy overalls with patch pockets (similar show Marc Jacobs, Marc by Marc Jacobs) . The fact that our overalls are all, it became clear when they first appeared in the autumn Dior fashion show, and then in the spring collection of prêt-à-porter.
So, Kenzo sew extremely simple and loose jumpsuit flared with cutouts on the sides and combine them with slippers. Céline decorate the jumpsuit with buttons and combine with leather ballet flats. Raf Simons for Dior creates coveralls resembling the shape of astronauts, and complements them with leather belts and boats. Stella McCartney suggests wearing a jumpsuit with platform shoes.
Beware
We advise you to pay attention to extremely concise models of free-cut overalls and wear them with slippers, shoes or other shoes on a flat run. Beware of extra decorations. Wear a minimum of accessories with overalls and give preference to practical shoes. If you still have not decided on a jumpsuit, remember Solange Knowles: she put it on her own wedding and rode on this bike.
Despite the fact that the jumpsuit - a self-contained thing, there is room for styling. For example, you can wear a jacket or a bomber jacket on top, pry a turtleneck under a jumpsuit and mark the throat or, on the contrary, something transparent and show layering. The top of the jumpsuit can be tied at the waist - and then you get pants with a decorative knot.
The editors thank Photoplay for their help in organizing the shooting, as well as Poustovit’s home and asos.ru online store. In the shooting used items from the collections of Poustovit and ASOS.
