Trend: collars

The Oxford English Dictionary says that the word "collar" in its modern meaning dates back to the year 1300. And collars, similar to those that we see on the catwalks and in stores, appeared only in the middle of the XVI century. At that time, they were most often removable.

^{1. Charles de la Port in the collar Rabat, XVII century / Portrait of the Queen of France Claude French, XVI century 2. Hans Holbein's picture "Portrait of Elizabeth Seymour", XVI century / Winona Ryder in the movie "Mermaids" 3. Promotional video to Madonna "Hollywood "4. Christina Ricci in the Addams Family film 5. Patterns, 60s / Collar Girl Peter Pan, 20s 6. Lilly Allen in PPQ dress, clip Fear / Photo of a Collared Girl Peter Pan ", 50th 7. Shot from the series" Mad Men "8. Twiggy on the cover of the American Vogue, October 1967 / Twiggy on the cover of the American Vogue, August 1967 9. Model Twiggy, 1970 10. Images from the film" Child Rosemary "11. Pictures from the blog strawberrykoi.blogspot.com}

There are many types of collars, but still the most popular are stand-up collar, Peter Pan (round), jabot and discount. They can be found on dresses, coats and blouses.

^{1. Soviet school uniform, 70-e / school uniform in the Gambia 2. School uniform in Japan 3. School uniform in Malaysia 4. School uniform in India 5. School uniform in the UK 6. School uniform in Poland until 1988}

Unusual collars on the catwalk this season were dominated by British designers: during London Fashion Week, they were seen at Erdem, Giles, Paul Smith, House of Holland, Pringle of Scotland and Charles Anastase. Collars also met in the collections of designers known for their love for shirts - Phoebe Faylo (Celine), Stella McCartney (Stella McCartney) and the duo Viktor & Rolf. The latter devoted their last show to office clothes, and it is easy to guess that the collar was in almost every bow.

^{1-2. Celine FW 2010 3. Celine Resort 2011 / Chanel SS 2011 4. Chanel FW 2009 5, 6. Charles Anastase Spring 2011 Ready-to-Wear 7, 8. Erdem SS 2011 9, 10. Giles SS 2011 11. Givenchy FW 2010 / Hermès SS 2011 12. House of Holland SS 2011 13, 14. Miu Miu FW 2010 15. Miu Miu SS 2011 16. Paul Smith SS 2011 17. Peter Pilotto SS 2011 / Unique SS 2011 18, 19. Pringle of Scotland SS 2011 20 , 21. Proenza Schouler FW 2010 22. Proenza Schouler SS 2011 23. Stella McCartney SS 2011 24. Viktor & Rolf FW 2010 / Viktor & Rolf SS 2011 25-29. Viktor & Rolf SS 2011}

A black dress with a white collar on Catherine Deneuve in the film "Day Beauty" gave rise to real mania. Now Karl Lagerfeld makes Chanel similar dresses from season to season. The mass market is not far behind: the collars are permanently present on Asos.com or Urbanoutfitter.com. White collar dress lovers are Beth Ditto from Gossip, model Alex Chang and, surprisingly, Hole singer of the group Hole Courtney.

^{1. The Gossip singer, Beth Ditto / lookbook.nu photo 2. Actress Clemens Poezy / actress Carey Mulligan 3. Singer Royushin Murphy / photo from natalieology blog 4. Alex Chang model 5. Photography from bloomingleopold blog 6. Actress Chloe Sevigny}

Collapse craze, which began not so long ago, can be attributed to the collection of Miu Miu. The collars with swallows and cats became record holders in the number of shots in magazines: they appeared in i-D, Muse, Interview, British Elle, American Vogue and Russh. The Australian Vogue went even further and dedicated one of the March editorials to its collars.

^{1. Vogue France, August 2008 2, 3. Vogue Japan, "The Dignity of the White Collar Woman", Bruna Tenoria, October 2009 4, 5. Vogue Russia, "Girl of my dreams", photographer Matt Irwin, May 2010 6- 9. Vogue Italy, photographer Stephen Meisel, March 1994 10-13. Vogue Australia, March 2010 14-16. Russh magazine, April / May 2010 17. American Vogue, February 2010 / American Vogue, February 1994 18. Japanese Vogue, September 2009 / Anne Klein advertising, American Vogue, March 1994 19. V, # 63, "Doll Parts" / Italian Vogue Bambini, July 2009 20. Marc Jacobs on the cover of the industry magazine / Singer Royshin Murphy in Paper Mag magazine 21-24. Italian Vogue, Peter Lindberg, "Stile Gangster", 1991 25-27. French Vogue, Terry Richardson, December-January 2006/2007}

The grunge style, which for the third season in a row can be seen in the most iconic collections, also partially influenced the popularity of collars. If you look closely at the Proenza Schouler show, it's easy to see that the designers of the brand Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullau were inspired in many ways by the image of Courtney Love twenty years ago. True, the collars in their FW 2010 collection, unlike the Peter Pan Courtney collar, look stricter and neater.

^{1. A picture of Italian photographer Pedro Podesta 2. Nicole Richie in Vanity Fair magazine, 2006 3, 4. Catherine Deneuve in the film “Day Beauty” 5. Twiggy / singer Barbara Streisand 6. Actress Mia Farrow 7. Frame from the film “How Green was My Valley "8. Alex Chang in Madewell advertising campaign 9. Singer Courtney Love / designer Karl Lagerfeld}

Dasha Kosareva, Vogue.ru:

If I were asked to film again for the “Wardrobe” column, now everything would look different: the center of the universe would be a shirt. This piece of clothing has unique style-forming properties, you can build any image around it. Even more universal means was the “novelty of the season” - removable collars, which have a huge variety of varieties. With their help, to place accents in everyday clothes is simple.

A whole heap of associations inspired by this accessory arises in my head: here you have parallels with the heroine Catherine Deneuve in “Day Beauty”, and hints at the costumes of Mary Poppins and Peter Pan, and allusions to the coloratories of Catholic clergymen, and references to the Flemish folk crafts.

I like restrained decisions, so I sympathize more with removable Miu Miu collars, especially in the interpretation of Hanneli Mustaparta, or the deceptively chaste Carven turn-down collar, rather than the baroque embroidery in the Phillip Lim collection.

^{1. Lukbuk Opening Ceremony x Chloe Sevigny 2, 3. Lukbuk Vivetta 4. Lukbuk Madewell}

Dasha Lagenberg, stylist:

Collars today are particularly relevant, and in the future they will remain so. When looking at them, childhood and adolescence are recalled - this feeling is close to those who wore school uniforms. Now in the collections of designers of such memories scattered a lot.

I will not be original, but I will say that I like the collars at Miu Miu (Miu Miu) - the seals of the past season, as well as the rack-bows of this and the future, summer. Leather jacket collars are immediately associated with The Runaways and David Bowie.

I myself will wear Proenza Schouler next season, I liked their small, neat collars. Beautiful metal stand-up collar at Celine in the collection of Resort 2011.

I also love removable collars, they can be refined every time a white T-shirt, and anything else.

At the moment, I am preparing a collar survey for the new X'U campaign.

^{1. Topshop Dress 2. Topshop Dress 4, £ 28.00 3. Topshop3 Dress, £ 28.00 4. Topshop Shirt £ 32.00 5. Topshop Dress, £ 50.00 6. Topshop Dress, £ 85.00 7. Topshop Collar, £ 38.00 8. Topshop Collar , £ 32.00 9. L'Agence, £ 246.81 10. Proenza Schouler shirt, £ 468.09 11. Proenza Schouler, £ 480.85 12. APC dress, £ 451.06 13. Miu Miu, £ 680.85. 14. Anna Sui, £ 438.30 15. Dress Lauren Scott 16. The Row Dress 17. Alexa Chung for Madewell, $ 110.00 18. Erdem, $ 6,435.00 19. Roberto Cavalli 20. See by Chloe, $ 395 21. Pins & Needles 22. Nishe, $ 68.96 23. Asos, $ 48.27 24. Asos , $ 44.82 25. Urban Outfitters, $ 24.99 26. Urban Outfitters, $ 48 27. Asos Dress, $ 62.06 28. Asos Dress, $ 62.93 29. Asos Dress, $ 41.38 30. Asos Dress, $ 94.82}