Feminine bombers in spring-summer collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how originally a masculine and bulky thing - a bomber jacket - moved into a female wardrobe.
How it all began
It is not a secret for anyone that a bomber jacket is initially a man’s and, moreover, a military thing. The voluminous coats of thick G-1 leather pilots were worn by the US military during World War II. By the 50th, such jackets had been upgraded to warm nylon bombers — especially for heavy bomber pilots. A distinctive feature of the first bombers was an orange lining: in the event of an emergency, the jacket could be turned inside out - thus the pilot who was in trouble could be seen from on high. In the 50s, two cult films appeared on the screens: “A Streetcar Named Desire‟ ”with Marlon Brando and“ A Rebel Without an Ideal ”with James Dean - in both the main characters wore bombers. Cool guys from American colleges were fascinated by the manliness of this thing. So, by the mid-50s, it seemed easy to look like "without cause" - put on a bomber jacket and went to kick schoolers with a rugby ball in their hands.
By the 60th, Alpha Industries, which had initially worked for the military, was reoriented to the urban buyer. At the same time, representatives of the British subculture - fashion - bought themselves on the bomber. Radical-minded skinheads followed in on their heels: they liked it terribly to combine large jackets with work jeans and coarse boots. Martens (a good example is easily found in the movie "This is England").
The next boom on bombers happened in the 80s - the time of fashion for voluminous things and men's silhouettes. Then there were wide trousers, bananas, jackets with hangers, oversight coats and, of course, bombers. A significant contribution to the fashion for the bulk outerwear made a French fashion designer Claude Montana. He himself wore bombers and showed women's collections with deliberately voluminous elements. He suggested combining such things with a mini-skirt and high-heeled or high-heeled shoes. Yves Saint-Laurent also made his contribution: in the 80s he created a women's silver bomber jacket embroidered with flowers. Approximately then the bomber jacket ceased to be associated exclusively with subcultures and turned into a popular (in a broad sense) piece of clothing. In part, this happened thanks to such films as "The Breakfast Клуб Club" and "Ferris Bueller's Weekend": here the bombers fall into the hands of hip-hop culture and become an attribute of the streets. By the 90th, they were quite used to the bombers, and it was already possible to buy them for five kopecks in a flea market across the road.
How to wear a bomber jacket now
It is no secret to anyone that this season many brands turned to street fashion and sport. Therefore, it is not surprising that bombers appeared in the collections of many designers. Interpretation of bombers touched their length and the materials from which these jackets are sewn today. So, Stella McCartney and KTZ show elongated bombers that can be worn over a silk dress: the main thing is that the dress sticks out from under the jacket. Trussardi show a reptile leather bomber jacket: the collection has snow-white, pale yellow and red. Jonathan Riess for Jay Ahr - grid bomber. Even the conservative French designer Barbara Bui appeared in bomber - made of suede and leather and denim. Today, many designers compensate for the volume and bulkiness of the bomber by using light materials for sewing: transparent organza, delicate silk or fine viscose. For example, transparent bombers are in the collections of Lacoste, Delpozo, 3.1 Phillip Lim, KTZ.
beware!
Bomber - a thing rough, bulk, this would be best to look with something feminine. For example, with an A-line skirt (it doesn't matter, mini or midi) or with a narrow pencil skirt. If you choose a transparent or silk light bomber jacket, then it can be easily combined with straight trousers or shorts, wearing a crochet top under the bomber jacket. From shoes - something sporty and massive: flip-flops, sneakers or sandals with thick soles.
Photo: Getty Images / Fotobank (3), Rex / Fotodom (1)