The best thing that happened at Milan Fashion Week
Olesya Iva
FEBRUARY AND BEGINNING OF MARCH - HOT TIME for the fashion industry: one after another are the main world fashion weeks, where they show the collections of the future autumn and winter of 2016. We have already talked about the most interesting shows and moments of weeks in New York and London. Yesterday ended the most important fashion week for the Russian market - Milan. We tell what really outstanding happened in Milan and how it can affect us.
Gucci Show
In the history of Gucci, a new chapter has begun. In January 2015, a new creative director Alessandro Michele came into the Italian commercially charged brand (home incomes greater than Prada, Cartier and Hermès). He debuted a men's gender-ambivalent collection, where on models of both sexes was about the same set of clothes: transparent blouses with bows, wide trousers and lace tops. At the women's show, Michele repeated this technique, but added contrast: leather men's suits followed transparent sexy things, skirts coexisted with men's jackets, and dresses with frill - with men's shoes.
This time the guys in blouses did not cause such a stir. All the attention of the public was riveted to the styling thought out to the smallest detail. Here Michele walked on Edi Sliman’s beaten track in Saint Laurent, making a bet on styling. Accessories were also carefully chosen: Michele used ugly shoes with a fluff, berets, rings, bows and glasses. The characteristic “sexy” has long and firmly adhered to the Gucci style, the new creative director tried to add to him also intellectuality. So, in the press release of the collection appeared a quote from Roland Bart. The audience of the show was clearly under the impression: in the first row Salma Hayek was already in her beret and a blouse with a bow.
Prada Show
As it happened, the Prada show is one of the strongest in Milan. Miuccia Prada dedicated a new collection to everything artificial and called it Softer Pop, in fact, retro-futurism reigned on the catwalk. The main material for the designer was the tech fabric - double-sided jersey, visually reminiscent of neoprene, which is used for wetsuits. Due to the material, double-breasted jackets, dresses, flared trousers, coats in the fashion of the late 50s - early 60s looked like toys and borrowed from the wardrobe of the heroes of films like "Stepford wives" or "The Truman Show".
Miuccia showed a masterful work with color, combining in one show all the pastel shades from pistachio and blue to pale lemon and pale pink - in a word, the whole palette of colors from the pastry shop. Interesting in the collection is the work with tweed and boucle, as well as its imitation - a molecular print, vaguely resembling a tweed, was applied to some things. Attention deserves the details: high leather gloves, bows, faux fur trim, brooches and shoes with very low heels, kitten heels with rubberized soles. Models made high tails, repeating hair with a male show. Only this time the tails were made neater and decorated with hairpins. Prada’s reflections on youth are also obvious: references to the second Miucci brand, the more daring and young Miu Miu, were well read in the collection.
Display N ° 21
Alessandro Del'Aqua, the founder of N ° 21 and the creative director of Rochas, loves bold combinations of different textures as well as layering. In the new collection, his interpretation of the Baroque is interesting: from lace gloves to iconic materials of the epoch such as tapestries and gold, as for the palette - from white to powdery pink. For example, Del'Aqua's voluminous wool coat “in the herringbone” suggests wearing in the fall with a transparent turtleneck and baroque gold trousers, and a gray knitted headset with a gold fleece. The coat and sweaters are manufactured by the brand in accordance with the tapestry-like technique, and it combines with "snake" ankle boots in the style of the 70s. On the layering of N ° 21, the dogs were eaten: skinny pants are shown along with an elegant dress and skirt. Alessandro skillfully works with the texture of the fabric, easily combining in one thing the shuttlecocks, pleating, applications and asymmetrical cuts. The Victorian stand-up collar also found a place in the collection: the designer decorated them with half silk dresses. Traditionally, the brand shows elegant pencil skirts and shirt dresses - they roam Del'Aqua from season to season.
Marni show
Chief designer Marni Consuelo Castiglioni dedicated the collection to travel and wild conditions. Hence the abundance of fur, roomy patch pockets, shoulder bags and tunics. The palette of the collection also beat the colors of the desert flora and fauna: brown, white, beige, blue, dusty pink. Only by the end of the show did the black and red total bows mandatory for the next season appear. Most of the silhouettes Consuelo borrowed in the fashion of the 40s, once again showing the erosion of time eras in the context of one season. Hence the skirts and dresses below the knee.
The show was opened with a quilted white dress and a turtleneck, which was complemented with a wide belt, a reptile bag and huge round earrings. Marni supported this season the trend of decorating geometric shapes, brooches and cuffs returned to the podium. Despite the warlike silhouettes of the 40s, elements of the 70s fashion are also noticeable in the collection: flared with slits in the middle of the trousers, elongated vests, reptile shoes (as in N ° 21), shirts and tops with very long sleeves. Attention is deserved by the work of Consuelo with tweed and jacquard, velvet trimming, as well as things with the effect of incompleteness: clothes with protruding threads and shoes with a carelessly cut sole.
Bottega Veneta Show
Thomas Mayer, creative director of Bottega Veneta, was inspired by ballet for a long time and worked with a monochrome neutral palette. In the new season, he decided to revive the picture and switched to art, bright prints and difficult-to-match colors. Bottega Veneta has always been an elite and intellectual brand. So, the show opened Edie Campbell in top and men's trousers in small peas (reminiscent of the work of Yayoi Kusama) to the music of Sergei Prokofiev. Even with the vigorous collection palette and the use of materials like Lurex, things looked quite strict: men's suits, silk scarves around the neck, vests in the style of the 70s, leather coats, flowing skirts to the knee, sweaters. Like Gucci, the brand relied on contrast: at the fashion show, the model was trod in men's trousers and feminine silk blouses with a bow. Thomas retained the usual geometry for the brand: sharp, noticeable shoulders, sharp and clear cut lines - but he revived the overall picture with golden boots and loafers; also showed lace, almost transparent dresses.
PHOTO: Getty Images / Fotobank (1)