Futurism
In the constant rubric "Tendency" we closely look at trends that in one way or another affect our appearance every six months, but we reflect on them in the context of more significant trends. | The new material "Futurism" - about how the Curiosity rover and the film "Cloud Atlas" made designers once again talk about the future and release models on the catwalk in voluminous metal shades. Text: Liza Kologreeva |
How and why designers turned to futurismIn the 1960s, humanity first flew into space and landed on the moon, which could not but affect the designers of the era - they were carried away by futurism. Emilio Pucci showed hats in the form of transparent helmets from the suit, and Pierre Cardin didn’t copy the past and always talk only about the future. Since then, the futuristic theme has been played up in fashion as often as art deco, sports or military. |
From left to right, top to bottom: filming Stephen Klein; lookbook Prada FW 2012; Street Style Bow with Balenciaga Sweatshirt; Chanel FW 2012; shooting from the autumn-winter issue of the POP magazine; shooting by Tim Walker; campaign by Alexander McQueen; Hussein Chalayan trousers and shoes; filming from Vogue late 1990s |
In the past few seasons, history repeats itself, of course, with some reservations. Renewed fashion houses, the founders of which were passionate about the theme of the future - Paco Rabanne and Thierry Mugler. The rover Curiosity has been photographing the surface of Mars for the sixth month, while Prada is launching Real Fantasies lookbook with models against the background of outer space. The screens show the monumental sai-fi "Cloud Atlas" and "Prometheus", and in the collections of SS 2013 - references to them. Shortly before that, the young Briton Christopher Caine, who was fascinated by galactic prints, and former Balenciaga creative director Nicolas Ghesquière, who created a collection of unusual shapes, turned to futuristic trends. |
Trends of futurismIt seemed that after the boom in the drawings with the stars and planets, which everyone equally quickly fell in love with and tired of, this trend would come to naught. But then Balenciaga showed sweatshirts with space photos for a pair of shiny pants. And in the SS season of 2013, things with non-standard proportions from holding materials, metallic, futuristic dresses and alien makeup flashed on every second show. |
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VOLUME We talked in detail about the game of designers with volumes in the material “New proportions”. Now they can remind us of both the nineties and futurism - take a look at the shoulders of the Burberry coat and the square Chalayan dresses. | SHINE Metallized things send us both to retro-futurism and to the future: Anthony Vaccarello has asymmetrical jackets and shorts of copper color, and Viktor & Rolf has silver pleated skirts. |
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FOREIGN MIKE-AP The trend has influenced make-up. The main role in it is played by an eye make-up: try silver shades, as at Chanel, or blue or green pastes for a century, as at Dior. It is better to make the complexion of the face and lips unhealthily pale - in general, highlighters to help. | CUTS AND PRINTS As a rule, aliens in sci-fi TV shows and films wear tight dresses with strange cuts - such are fantasies of scriptwriters and costumers, say, “Visitors”. The Alexander Wang and Cushnie et Ochs collections have similar ones. Another element that designers like Piter Pilotto and Rodarte learned from science fiction is futuristic prints. |
Fiction Movie StylePerhaps the most fashionable film in the fantasy genre is The Fifth Element: Jean-Paul Gautier created the costumes for him. Classic fiction has always inspired designers. So, Raf Simons dedicated to the Star Trek collection, and Tom Brown - to Star Wars. As the heroines of the "X-Men" or "Avengers" we will only wear a sci-fi party. But we can copy the style of Jennifer Lawrence from The Hunger Games and Amanda Seyfried from Time. |
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Futuristic items from online storesSpring-summer collections are already being delivered to online stores, which means that every day the futuristic things in them become more and more. There you can find shiny tops, trousers and silver leather pumps and massive rings that shimmer like gasoline. |
Dion Lee Skirt£554 | Trousers Les Chiffoniers£692 | Top burberry£338 |
Acne Dress£829 |
Eddie Borgo Ring£325
Asos Bracelets989 rub. |
Sweatshirt Bat Norton2900 rub.
Balenciaga Clutch£363 | Dress Esteban Cortazar£625 |