Why the new suite will win the mass market
While Hermès is producing T-shirts and bags for the price of an apartment, thereby making the luxury industry odious, and your dress of your favorite democratic brand for 1,000 rubles is falling apart again, a new suite appears. Look At Me talks about the new phenomenon and explains why it will win. Text: Liza Kologreeva |
In the fashion industry there are two extremes - the mass market and luxury. No matter how much the stylists try to make friends with them when they talk about the combinations of H & M with Prada, an ordinary person joins one of the parties, and not least it depends on his earnings. Proponents of the mass market are doomed from time to time to complain about the quality of things and buy those clothes, the design of which is painfully familiar. It is understood that the Mango do not hesitate to copy, say, Céline. Lux from these points of view wins, but not everyone can afford it. Sometimes the luxury segment comes to the point of absurdity and gives us interesting topics for conversations: this is how, according to Telegraph.co.uk, the Hermès T-shirt has recently arrived in stores from crocodile skin for $ 91,000 - the price of an apartment or a car.
Between the mass market and the luxury is a huge layer of brands, among which in recent years a new luxury has stood out. Calling this term brands like J. Crew and rag & bone, Refinery29.com writes: "Lux is no longer a story about limited editions, craftsmanship and exorbitant cost. In today's world, this is a conversation about individuality, a strong look at progressive design and, yes , functionality. " In a nutshell, the brand of the new luxury belongs to the middle price segment, offers a beautiful design and good quality and therefore is already a good option for investment. These brands are young, but they can already tell a story to their potential customers - as young as they are. Winning new luxury began after Carol Lim and Umberto Leon of Opening Ceremony took the place of Kenzo creative directors. According to the articles in Interview and Vogue, it became obvious that no one cares about the legacy of Antonio Marras, everyone wants to see Kenzo of the XXI century, with tigers on fairly inexpensive sweatshirts and prints in the form of bunches of grapes. The luxury industry was shaken by the fact that Alexander Wang and Raf Simons were appointed designers of Balenciaga and Dior. Both have named lines that fit the definition of a new luxury. Saint Laurent Edie Slimane seems to be leaning towards the new suite, at least in that he makes Yves Saint Laurent more commercial and youth, Style.com editor-in-chief Dirk Standen and Eric Wilson from The New York Times are sure.
One of the pioneers of the new suite is Opening Ceremony: a brand of ten years, and it has long grown from the status of "Topshop for the rich." Brand Carol Lim and Umberto Leona produces intricate accessories for less than $ 300 and makes excellent collaborations with Chloe Sevigny and Rodarte. Another good example is COS, which forces all elders from Moscow to bite their elbows. The side project of the creators of H & M, opened in 2007, produces minimalist and modern things. The absolute bestseller of COS is a white silk blouse, which can and is more expensive than the similar one in the same H & M, but it will last longer. Recently, H & M owners launched a new project - & Other Stories. It was expected that the brand would be very expensive, but it turned out the most luxurious new one. The brand offers jackets for £ 125 and shoes for £ 80: it’s not a shame to bequeath to your children. By the way, if you have noticed, in recent seasons, prices for Zara things have increased (although they have increased due to the increase in the cost of labor and materials, and in China have noticed that they have decreased). At the same time, the brand has become even more trendy and, with your permission, refined. In her collections you can find sweatshirts with perforations and good skirts with décor of sequins, which will not fall apart even after the first socks.
The second lines of designers are also new luxury. We're not talking about Victoria by Victoria Beckham's girlish dresses, but about Derek Lem’s second lines and Jil Sander, for example. They conceived as designer collections available to young people who would prepare girls and boys for more expensive lines of the same designers. However, democratic lines may well replace the main ones. Maybe they are a little simpler and the best designer powers are not thrown at them, but the clothing from the second lines is hardly less quality than the first. By the way, remember the third floor of the Tsvetnoy department store? Perhaps, it is the best possible way to illustrate the term "new luxury": the famous Maje-Sandro brand tandem is sold there, as well as the best examples of British light industry in the middle segment - Reiss and Whistles. Nearby is the The Cube corner where you can find concise dresses and coats of the Ukrainian brand with a history of Bevza thousands for 10-15.
First of all, the new suite is for young people and in some sense progressive people. They are tired of Topshop, they have no desire to starve for the sake of Miu Miu, but obviously I don’t want to go to another polyester thing for 999 rubles. Stamps from the new luxury segment are attachments for which it is worth a little to tighten the belts. Stop tolerating 15 floral dresses: with the same money you can buy an Acne shirt, IRO shorts and See by Chloé boots. The effect from them will be more significant: they will last longer, and their meaning is greater.
