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And the green parrot: Prints from the collections of SS 2012

Alena Akhmadullina: "Alice in Wonderland"

For the season of SS 2012 Alena Akhmadullina created a collection inspired by "Alice in Wonderland", which was understandable even at the invitation of the brand's shows, the first of which was held during the Paris Fashion Week. The prints were predictable: a smiling Cheshire cat, fabulous mushrooms and flowers - all in a very pleasant cobalt-earth scale.



Alexander Terekhov: Kaleidoscope

Designer Alexander Terekhov created a summer collection based on his impressions of Moroccan architecture and interpreting classical Oriental motifs in a modern way. The resulting geometric pattern resembles not only closely located dyes of Fes, but also a pattern in a kaleidoscope. In addition to this multi-color print on skirts and dresses, I remember the monochrome pattern of shorts and jackets, resembling either a QR code or Lego.



Altuzarra: Jungle

This season Altuzarra flower prints appeared parrots, whose wings can not be distinguished from flowers from a distance. They took the theme of the jungle as a basis, which became clear even before the start of the show: the podium ended with a lively green wall. The feature of dresses with such a print is in a cut: the flower pattern adorns only in front, and the back part is sewn of dense black or white material.



Ashish: Sunflowers and Bricks

The spring-summer collection of Hindu Ashish Gupta is entirely built on flowers, be it the sunflower on the tops of Vngogov, the huge daisies on the dresses, or the real flowers inserted into the boots. The urban print on the skirts and sequins tops served as a counterbalance to this village story.



Carven: Zigzags

Designer Guillaume Henri began the revival of the Carven brand only two years ago, but he has been successful in everything. During this time, the brand moved from small presentations to large-scale shows and launched a line of men's clothing, and its fans were TV presenter Alex Chang, singer Gwen Stefani and actress Hayley Steinfeld. In the spring-summer collection, inspired by French folklore, Carven has more prints than ever: in the form of zigzags of different colors and sizes, reminiscent of the patterns from the costumes of fairy-tale characters and the iconic Missoni zigzags.



Chalayan: Tapestry

After a year and a half break, Hussein Chalayan literally returned to the podium: during the defile, the designer in the form of a waiter poured champagne to the models. His new collection is not devoid of the inherent Chalayan (brand name has recently been reduced from Hussein Chalayan to Chalayan) of a complex cut and intricate details and made in pastel shades and metallic. Among the prints - a gloomy tapestry with assorted roses.



Comme des Garcons: Graffiti

The new collection of the Comme des Garcons is made entirely in white and includes a lot of references to it: from wedding dresses to lace dresses, which are customarily put on for baptism by Baptists. Brand designer Ray Kawakubo calls the collection white drama, and her husband and business partner Adrian Yoffe describes it like this: “It’s about the wedding — something that makes you happy and unhappy at the same time.” Perhaps black graffiti prints on a pair of dresses and raincoats hint that the wedding imposes some shackles on the person.



Dolce & Gabbana: Vegetables

Zucchini, hot peppers, tomatoes and eggplants - Dolce and Gabbana this season have returned to their roots, namely to the image of a provincial town in southern Italy in the mid-50s. Unexpected prints are balanced with silhouettes and bijouterie in the form of garlic cloves and macaroni balanced in the same style.



Dries Van Noten: Jungle Flora and Photos by James Riva

If last season prints from the collection of Dries Van Noten reminded paintings of artists working in the style of abstract expressionism, and the work of Russian constructivists, then this time their background is much simpler. The first half of the drawings are jungle landscapes and engravings depicting flora created in the seventeenth century. The second is the result of a designer’s collaboration with young photographer James Reeve: Dries Van Noten’s dresses and tops show his nightly landscapes.



Giles: Swans

In the spring-summer collection of Giles Dickon, who recently left the post of creative director Ungaro, the theme of swans is read from each element: white, beige and red colors, feather decorations and, of course, swan prints. No thing refers to the painting "Black Swan". Here, according to journalist Anna Battista, there are more subtle allusions: fragments of Michelangelo's Leda and the Swan (as well as other works on this subject) and a purple evening suit with metal embroidery and an ornament in the shape of a swan by Elsa Sciaparelli.



Jeremy Scott: Paradise

At the invitation to the show Jeremy Scott was written: "Hello from paradise!" - in support of this greeting, the dress with the inscription "Paradise" spoke eloquently. In fact, the sun, desert, palm trees, cacti, glasses and a cowboy holster turned out to be paradise. Made in bright colors (the amount of pink clearly exceeded all permissible norms), the collection supported the unofficial Hawaiian theme of New York Fashion Week.



Jil Sander: Paisley

The popularity of the paisley pattern, it would seem, has passed, but Jil Sander decided to extend it at least for the season. A simple pattern of two-color and pastel patterns decorated maxi-dresses, shorts and jackets. In addition, one of the dresses was simulated pattern with a ceramic vase by Pablo Picasso.



Jill Stuart: Swallows and Palms

For the third consecutive season, Jill Stewart has been working intensively with prints: pictures of a revolutionary procession, owls and foxes appear on her dresses. This time, beige, lemon and peach tops and dresses from the collection of the American designer were decorated with fluttering swallows and mini palm trees. Well, just for the season.



Lanvin: Snakes

The snake print of Lanvin became a natural continuation of the main idea of ​​the collection: the biblical theme of exile from paradise, the forbidden fruit, the serpent tempter - this is where the snake head rests on the shoulders of rethought sports dresses, massive jewelery in the form of crosses and a snake texture of shoes and clutches.



Loewe: Lizards

The main print of the spring-summer collection of the Spanish brand Loewe is a lizard from the works of Maurits Escher. The artist has a lizard gradually emerging from the black cells of a chessboard, but in Loewe they took the already formed reptile as a basis and created several dresses with such a print, making the drawers in color.



Mark Fast: Lava

The same print as on the invitation to his show, Mark Fast transferred to several outfits from the spring-summer collection. The abstract bright orange pattern and accessories in the subject that causes diverse associations are actually imitating red-hot lava.



Marni: Flowers

The infantile pastel flowers with long petals - exactly the same as the primitive artist Niko Pirosmani draws them - have become one of the main prints of the latest Marni collection. According to the designer, things should embody purity and innocence - for this just prints and simple silhouettes are responsible. However, it is not possible to establish exactly which flowers were taken as a basis.



Mary Katrantzou: Metal parts, mylar, feathers, flowers and ribbons

One of the main components of the Mary Katranza brand’s DNA is prints: patterns appear on her dresses from dishes, then interiors, and each time the images are complemented by a large number of colors. This season in the prints of Greek women can easily get confused. Drawings on Mary Katrantzou clothes are a mixture of photographs of bent metal machine parts, Mylar (silver or golden film, which could be seen in the past collection of Stella McCartney), feathers, flowers and ribbons with bows that adorn gift wrapping.



Meadham Kirchhoff: Bears and Hearts

Designers Medham and Kirschoff at the show of the summer collection of their brand staged a real doomsday. Models in dresses, sundresses and overalls with bears and hearts, with unimaginable clown curls depicted the winners of various competitions of small princesses. Obviously, the proper mood was created not only by the music of Hole, golfs and clothes of all colors of the rainbow, but also prints in the form of big-eyed hearts, similar to the famous print of the Comme des Garcons Play line.

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Nina Donis: Quotes

As you know, the space at the Nina Donis SS 2012 show was decorated with self-made posters with various aphorisms and inspiring sayings of famous people, from Franz Kafka to Tom York. Therefore, no one was surprised when, at the end of the show, after a series of monophonic dresses without drawings, the model had a voluminous dress with a print of these very quotes.



No. 21: Nude Polynesians

Not so long ago, designer Alessandro Dell'Aqua resigned as creative director of the Brioni brand and, apparently, for good reason. The latest collection of his own brand No. 21, consisting of men's shirts and beige sweaters, tops and skirts of copper shades, as well as dresses with collars embroidered with sequins, was received by the critics with enthusiasm. And if all of the listed components of the collection arose under the influence of the first source of inspiration for Alessandro, a bourgeois resident of Milan, then prints with the image of naked Polynesian Del'Aqua were inspired by the tropics.



Prada: Cars

According to Tim Blanks, Style.com columnist, men love two things: women and cars. Inspired by the fashion of the 50s (in the men's collection, these were allusions to Elvis Presley, and in the women's collection to Marilyn Monroe), Miuccia Prada combined the men's favorite things, creating a print in the form of machines for a woman's dress. Perhaps next summer these prints will become as popular as the monkeys in the past.



Rachel Comey: Landscapes Rosemary Oberson

For leather shoes, Rachel Komi loves New York buyers and editors, as well as singer David Bowie and actress Kirsten Dunst. In developing the spring-summer collection, the designer collaborated with the French artist Rosemary Oberson, who created illustrations for Hermes and Givenchy. So on the Rachel Comey dresses and T-shirts, pictures with the image of the seashore appeared.



Reed Krakoff: Birds

Obviously, after the famous swallows Miu Miu, designers will not part with the prints in the form of birds for a long time. In addition to Jill Stuart, this season the birds are put on their clothes by the creative director of the Coach accessories brand Reed Krakoff, who has been working on clothing collections for just three seasons. By the way, he has one of the first experiments with prints: the designer prefers monochrome.



Rodarte: Sunflowers and Almond Branches

Each season, sisters Kate and Laura Mallivi, creators of the brand Rodarte, in one way or another appeal to art. For example, they decorated dresses with prints imitating patterns from porcelain of the Ming dynasty. This time the designers transferred to their outfits the paintings "Sunflowers" and "Flowering Almond Branches" by the Dutch post-impressionist Vincent Van Gogh.



Salvatore Ferragamo: palm leaves and leopard

According to critics, from Nicole Phelps from Style.com to Jessica Bambs from Vogue.co.uk, the spring-summer collection of Massimiliano Jornetti for Salvatore Ferragamo will definitely appeal to buyers, stylists, and customers: it has silk suits and maxi dresses from chiffon with tropical prints, symbolic for the brand, - leopard prints and in the shape of palm leaves - scarlet, turquoise and fuchsia.



Topshop Unique: Elizabeth Taylor as Cleopatra

Not so long ago, Look At Me noticed that invitations to shows often hinted at clothes that would be shown on the show. On the invitation Topshop Unique was printed a frame from the movie "Cleopatra", the main role in which played Elizabeth Taylor. Her own portraits appeared on sweatshirts from the collection.



Versace: Sirens, Starfish and Shells

The marine theme in the new Versace collection was basic: sirens, starfish and shells were not only lined with staves and rhinestones, but also printed as prints.



Victoria by Victoria Beckham: Cats, Crescents and Clouds

Not so long ago, Victoria Beckham - the former soloist of the Spice Girls, turned into a designer - launched a line of democratic dresses by Victoria by Victoria Beckham. The debut collection of V by VB is inspired by the main character of the cartoon Emily the Strange, so most of the dresses are short, trapezoidal and with prints in the form of cats, crescents and clouds. Judging by the fact that things from the main line of Victoria Beckham disappear from the stores in the first days of sales, dresses from the democratic line will also quickly find a buyer.



Vika Gazinskaya: Diamonds, parrots and pencil strokes

Vika Gazinskaya has already used a black marker stroke for several dresses in the FW 2011 season. This time, the dresses had strokes of colored pencils and an unforgettable print of green parrots. Virtually every outfit also has stripes in the form of painted diamonds, which some guests of the show considered too theatrical.



 

Viva Vox: Lilac and dandelions

After the show of Viva Vox SS 2012, everyone only said that in winter Moscow suddenly smelled in the spring. This is understandable: the mood created a print of the earliest spring flowers - lilacs and dandelions - on silk dresses, shirts and even men's loafers.



Text: Liza Kologreeva and Vika Lobanova

Watch the video: Summer Fashion Picks: Karmaloop, Topshop, ShoeMint & More (December 2024).

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