Hollywood, Baroque and Jungle: Expected Aromas of 2018
Text: Ksenia Golovanova, author of the telegram channel Nose Republic
We did not have time to wake up after the holidays, and the year already promises outstanding perfume impressions: grand brands prepare fragrances-bombs and one description sounds bolder than another. Our perfume critic tells you which bottles to look into stores from February on.
Aura, Mugler
sales start in Russia - February 2018
In Russia, one of the most important perfumery launches of this year will occur in just a month. In some places it has already happened: if you were flying through major hub airports on a vacation, you could smell new green freshness in duty free stores that effortlessly blocked the miasma of Poison Girl and La Vie Est Belle. The army of consultants, armed with green heart-shaped bottles, contributed a lot to this, but in the absence of combat constructions, the new flagship fragrance Mugler is exceptionally strong, diffuse and persistent. So smells the cycle of life and death in the tropics: over-ripe fruit, wet greens, wood chips and a wet animal skin.
Holy_wood, Nomenclature
sales start in Russia - March 2018
At the last Pitti Fragranze perfume exhibition, Nomenclature chemists showed a scent that was collected, like the brand's previous work, around a modern fragrance obtained in the laboratory. This time they took Clearwood, a new aromamaterial with the smell of light, light wood and well-ventilated, without the characteristic "cellar", patchouli. Dry wood presented a transparent rose and slightly menthol dust of pink pepper - it turned out the endless California route from the video "Ride" by Lana Del Rey, passed through instagram filters.
Music For a While, Frédéric Malle
sales start in Russia - March 2018
The new fragrance Frédéric Malle is named after the baroque song of Henry Purcell, an English composer of the 17th century. Speaking of Purcell, many musicians note his ingenuity, the sophistication of rhythm, as well as the amazing combination of grace and barbarism in the music he wrote - all this is characteristic of baroque. On the question of barbarism: the press release promises "caramel-licorice, gourmet shades of ethyl maltol and vanilla, balanced by woody patchouli chords and the freshness of lavender." But before you say “until”, pay attention to how much the stated notes resemble the pyramid of last year’s high-profile launch - few of the perfume journalists did not joke that Malle decided to make his Mon Guerlain, only good.
Les Amoureux de Peynet, Molinard
sales start in Russia - February 14, 2018
The new fragrance Molinard is dedicated to the famous lyric cycle of the French graphic artist Raymond Peyne - “Lovers” or “Lovers”. In the 1960s, Paine’s drawings were as important for the French as Hallmark postcards for Americans — not a single Valentine's day could do without them. Today, a recognizable couple, first seen by the artist in 1942 in the French province, has historical rather than sentimental value: the flow of vintage souvenirs with the symbols of Les Amoureux quietly rolls along the great eBay plain, where hardcore collectors fly at night. Surprisingly, with all the input data, the Molinard aroma turned out to be very modern - it is airy and spicy ginger (now extremely relevant) in the sea of orange and petigrain. And let the concentration of Eau Fraîche not scare you: "Lovers" will survive - at least until dinner.
Vanille Fatale, Tom Ford
sales start in Russia - March 2018
The French have the expression: "C'est fatale" - "This is inevitable." Tom Ford’s new vanilla is not so much “fatal” as inevitable: firstly, it is never out of place to repeat the success of the vanilla bestseller of the Tobacco Vanille brand, and secondly, vanilla is in fashion (thanks in large part to all the same Tom Ford). The list of notes includes heavy artillery: saffron, narcissus, and frangipani, and as fatality, when you are practically unconscious, is Somali incense. No one will stand.
Iris Rebelle, Atelier Cologne
the start of sales in Russia is unknown; now in the shops Sephora
Most often, the new fragrances of Atelier Cologne in Russia are brought by the founder of the brand, Christoph Servassel, for whom the local market is one of the main ones. Hopefully, it will come this time: the new iris asks for a comment, because, contrary to what we expect from perfume iris in general - elegance, good education and so on - announced as “rebellious”. True, all the revolutions of Atelier Cologne are velvet and most often occur in a region of slightly more daring combinations of notes than in ordinary colognes. Here and in Iris Rebelle lavender will accompany the main ingredient and - really unexpectedly - guaiac, wood with a delicious vanilla-smoked flavor.
Green Wheat & Meadowsweet, Jo Malone London
sales start in Russia - March 2018
Each spring, Jo Malone releases a limited collection of five fragrances poured into 30 ml human bottles. The new edition (English Fields, "English Fields") seems to be clearly aiming right at the heart, more precisely at the genetic memory of the English person, but it also fits into ours: the names of the compositions contain the most important codes of rural childhood in Russia - wheat, rye, honey and cornflowers . So far, the most interesting is Green Wheat & Meadowsweet, or "Green Wheat with Meat." Meadowsweet blooms in early summer - beautiful whitish and pink panicles with a characteristic, as expressed by pharmacists, "honey" smell. In fact, its main components are methyl salicylate and salicylic aldehyde: the first substance has a green and fresh, mint-camphor aroma, the second smells of bitter almonds. In combination with the smell of wheat sprouts, all of the above may develop - it would be nice - to something like the Jour de Fête of the L'Artisan Parfumeur brand, annoyingly discontinued the smell of June morning in the country.
Photo: Mugler Randewoo, Tom Ford, Sephora, Molinard, Spellsmell, Jo Malone London Press Office