Polina Proskurina-Yanovich, author of the project Kontrabas
Recently we told what a vintage is, how it differs from second-hand and how things are with it in Russia, and also listed 10 rules for dealing with vintage now. It is impossible not to notice that over the past two years a dozen vintage projects have appeared of completely different formats - from online stores to studios, where they come from personal recordings, and showrooms. Many of them take part in the Lambada market specializing in vintage (and not only), the new season of which will take place this weekend, December 21 and 22, in the Tsvetnoy department store. We asked several of them about what is happening with the vintage in Moscow, why they like things from past eras and how to wear them in 2013.
Polina Proskurina-Yanovich
Kontrabas, created with Michela BolognaniDresses, clutches, handbags, hats, jewelry 1940-80
There is not a single thing in our collection that we ourselves would not wear with pleasure.
Compared with Europe, in Moscow, of course, with a lot of tension. But compared with the same Moscow a year ago, progress is obvious: Muscovites are beginning to get a taste, and there are more and more places where you can buy vintage clothes and accessories. These are not always shops, these are just places: showrooms, private apartments, semi-basements. We, for example, perceive our Kontrabas as headquarters. If we are talking about stores, we really like Oldich, of course. But this is also rather not a shop, but a place where vintage reigns. More chamber and also a cool option - vintage shop "Hodyushi." Very atmospheric place, so love.
We came up with our project for talking in the kitchen in February 2011. That evening we decided to create a brand of women's clothing, under which things of the 1940-80s would be altered in new fabrics. We have been developing and setting up the first collection for a year, and in the end it was arrested at the Russian customs. But they could not part with the idea of vintage. As a result, we have formed a different model - to present authentic vintage at our headquarters, so now Kontrabas is not exactly a store, but rather, the headquarters of vintage. Today we are located on the Taganka. This is a residential apartment in a house of pre-revolutionary construction, the interior is appropriate.
Over the past year and a half, we have brought things from Paris, Berlin, Madrid, Barcelona, London, Rome, Milan, Naples, Budapest, St. Petersburg and Singapore. When selecting, we focus solely on your taste: in our collection there is not a single thing that we ourselves would not wear with pleasure. With regard to pricing, we believe that the price of vintage should be affordable, but quite high. Because each vintage item is unique, it already has its own history. Sometimes we can find out who exactly was the owner of a particular thing, on what occasion it was bought or stitched. Most of our clients are girls of creative professions: designers, architects, photographers. They love to experiment and come to us for unique and distinctive things. Another category of clients - gentle, feminine girls who come to us for airy dresses, prints in a small flower and all kinds of pleated options.
The most unusual thing in our store is a green dress with a neckline. This is part of our personal collection of vintage, which we exhibit, but do not sell. It came to us as a gift from a very wealthy Italian lady, who in the 1970s reigned in him at several social events. Another unique thing is a black chiffon blouse of the 50s, stitched with lace in the front and buttoning at the back. She was stitched modest in Moscow. This thing is especially loved by us precisely because it comes from Moscow. It rarely happens to find a Soviet vintage in good condition. In our personal wardrobe of the vintage star - men's tailcoats of the 50s. We bought them in Naples from an old man who, with great pride, told us about the actors who carried them in the theater. These coats produce a very strong effect even among people who are accustomed to dress brightly. We wear them with high waisted feminine pants. It is hardly possible to distinguish the rules of wearing vintage. But vintage total onions are definitely not the most winning option. We advise our clients to combine vintage with modern details, not to be afraid to mix styles in one bow. For example, delicate chiffon dresses look great with a brutal leather jacket, and pleated skirts are cool to wear with sneakers.
visagiste: Julia Timonina
Stylist:Daria Kuzminova
Photographer: Andrey Gerasimchuk
Wonderzine is grateful to the NAKED studios for their help in filming.