Naivety, loyalty, simplicity: What are the last fashion weeks taught
Dasha Prince
The birth of new trends - not the only thing that we need fashion weeks. Fashion weeks are a stream of fascinating events from which you can learn a lesson even to those who are not interested in fashion. We list everything that is worth learning from the just-past shows of the spring-summer season.
1
Naivety
In contrast to the dominance of intellectual minimalism, the most noticeable micro-trends of the next summer are again connected with infantilism - the shows are full of bows, sequins, frills, rims and tiaras. Designers are advised to try again to fall into childhood. We just need to remember: what looks organic on the podium is not always applicable to real life. You can dress up in frills from head to toe only if you want to come to a party in a clumsy cake costume. His naivety in appearance can be shown in less radical ways - a small bow on a blouse may well be enough. If this simple-minded trend has no place at all in your wardrobe, you can experiment with different variants of “puppet” makeup, as in the shows of Miu Miu or Louis Vuitton.
2
Democracy
The anniversary show of Givenchy, whose art director was the artist Marina Abramovich, was in the center of attention due to the fact that it was available to the general public. One hundred tickets were distributed to city residents living not far from the venue, another three hundred among Parsons and Pratt Institute students. Some of the tickets for this show, held on September 11, were also sold with the support of the authorities in New York.
If we are already accustomed to regular online broadcasts of large fashion houses, then invitations to show ordinary people, to put it mildly, is not the most common practice. New York week and Givenchy are taught - beauty can be at arm's length for thousands of people, not just for the elect.
3
Practicality
Street style on fashion weeks is still an accurate indicator of how global trends apply to ordinary people, not to celestial patterns with child proportions. And if the third echelon of bloggers is still trying to attract the attention of photographers with large labels, feathers, awkward heels and fancy hats, the latter remain adamant: the future, of course, for freedom and variety, but a big turn towards democratic, simple clothing from the good fabrics can not be overlooked. And this season, reports from fashion weeks have finally demonstrated this. On editors, buyers and stylists, it is increasingly possible to see the most relaxed uniform in which it is convenient to move around the big city: bombers, universal tops, neat sandals with a small heel, moderately strict dresses. Giovanna Battaglia and Anna Dello Russo, of course, do not count - expressive national traditions make themselves felt.
4
Follow the rule "old friend is better than new two"
All the world's media, one way or another not indifferent to the world of big fashion, noticed an important pattern of the past weeks - a return to the catwalk of models that we didn’t expect to see there, namely those who left the modeling business and are engaged in other creative affairs. Exactly a year ago, we rejoiced at the appearance of Gemma Ward and Lara Stone at the Prada and Amber Valletta shows at the Lanvin show, and in the new season we suddenly saw ourselves at the Michael Kors, Saint Laurent and Marc Jacobs shows beautiful Sasha Pivovarova, Agnes Dane, Ajak Deng and Karen Elson. These girls, who once had expensive contracts with the best brands and adorned huge billboards and magazine covers, work as a model either for a lot of money or for a great friendship. We hope that in the fashionable world neither the one nor the other will end: watching the confident gait of the idols of all the young female models is a special pleasure.
5
To perceive the concept of beauty is wider
We have already described the recent scandal with Gigi Hadid. The event was truly central to Milan Fashion Week, and they discussed it much more than the necklace at the Prada show or the self-reporters of Alessandro Michele. Although it would seem, why worry, the parameters of Gigi seem to be unfashionable only to a limited circle of opponents of common sense and the main problem is much broader. How to make society change the idea of the average model and make believe that not only very tall and very thin can demonstrate clothes? Small forces, but fashion weeks in every way advocate a variety of beauty. At the Marc Jacobs show, the soloist of the Gossip group, Beth Ditto, acted as a model, and the actress of the American Horror Story series Jamie Brewer with Down Syndrome as part of the Role Models Not Runway Models Show project. Further more. And even if we perceive the appearance of non-standard models on the podium only as an exception, these are the first steps towards the expansion of mass consciousness. If, thanks to this, at least one person thinks that beauty is different, it’s not all in vain. Special mention in this context deserve the young, but already well-known brands like Vetements and Ashish, which from the very beginning preferred the original, rather than the commercially winning appearance.
6
Do not restrain your imagination
It was during the busiest fashion month that loud dismissals and equally loud design appointments were announced, incredible decorations were erected behind which hundreds of people are working, and the appearance of the cities in which the weeks pass is changing. Therefore, surprise is one of the main emotions that accompanies all events during fashion weeks.
It’s hard not to fall under the charm of that “flower madness” that accompanies every Christian Dior show with the arrival of Raf Simons. But the current has outdone them all. For this purpose, with the help of a hundred florists, an entire cave of 400,000 tender lilac delphiniums was erected. The result is an unforgettable show, which will go down in history not only thanks to the pure genius of the designer, but also because of the most beautiful press wall in the world.
It is nice to watch the shows of Christian Dior, but now you can always say that its basis is flowers. How the Grand Palais will be decorated on the day of the Chanel show, until the last moment, knows only a very small circle of people and those who have guessed from the paper invitation. This is always a massive action and one of the most iconic events of the end of Paris Fashion Week. This time, the permanent creative director of Chanel Karl Lagerfeld took the airport as a starting point. And with some skepticism in relation to his person it looked great.
Not the scenery, we were also surprised by the Jacquemus show. Personal tragedy and feelings Simon Port Jacmus decided to use in the show his own collection, more like a theatrical performance with the participation of a living horse and a child - a ten-year-old cousin of the designer who rolled a huge red ball. Usually, all collections of the brand, as is known, are devoted to youth, carelessness and the southern coast of France. "Well, now the girl Jacquemus is not smiling," said Jacmus. And for us this is a real shock.
The Rick Owens show became a stronger global shock: for some models, other models were hanging with straps hanging upside down. The idea of the show, called "Cyclops", became women's concern for each other and motherhood.
7
Do not chase the novelty
The crazy race with the number of impressions, including all the "resorts" and "pre-folds", led to an understandable crisis of ideas and endless copying of himself and others. The statement "designers - new stylists" after returning to the fashionable sky of Edie Slimane as the creative director of Saint Laurent began to sound more and more often. Alessandro Michele with his androgynous collections for Gucci added fuel to the fire. Maybe we should admit that designers-visionaries have moved aside? What remains for us to do is to remember that new ideas are recycling old ones. Sometimes clothes are just clothes, and by and large it does not matter that one Gucci collection at first glance is not much different from another.
Photo: Acne, Proenza Shouler, Zara, TopShop, Jacquemus, Miu Miu