New femininity
In the constant rubric "Tendency" we closely look at trends that in one way or another affect our appearance every six months, but we reflect on them in the context of more significant trends. | In the new article "New Femininity" we understand why designers switched attention from androgynous images to feminine ones - to the seventy-year anniversary of New Look. Text: Liza Kologreeva |
Why do designers exploit femininityMost designers say that creates clothes for women to look like, sorry for the tautology, feminine. Therefore, at least for the sake of decency, from time to time they need to move away from androgyny towards femininity. This requires time: it is not necessary to repeat that business girls, who wear Phoebe Faylo on weekdays, sometimes are not averse to wearing a scarlet sheath dress from the latest Elie Saab collection or a new bow dress from the current Jil Sander collection. And pop culture favors femininity: the singer with the forms and good taste Adele is leading in the music charts, and since 2007, half the world has watched the Mad Men series with Dzhnyuari Jones and Christina Hendricks in roles of typical beauties from the 1960s. A couple of years ago, their images inspired Louis Vuitton and Prada to dress us in a bustier and sweaters with sun skirts intercepted by thin straps. I must say, very successfully: such bows still flash on the podiums. In addition, Uliana Sergeenko sets the tone in the main blogs about street style: it is difficult to find a girl who seeks to conform to the canons of femininity more than she is now. Femininity is determined by the prevailing culture in society rather than by biological factors. Thus, in the gallant century, aristocratic women with complex hair styles, pale skin and in baroque dresses with corsets and other appropriate elements were considered samples. Well, you remember the novel “Dangerous Liaisons” by Chauderlo de Laclos or, in extreme cases, the film adaptation of Stephen Frears. Significant changes in the femininity ideal underwent in the past century: from women of the beautiful era and the 1920s flappers, it evolved to the style of Marilyn Monroe, Barbie dolls and top models of the 1990s. |
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| With the change of ideas about femininity, the understanding of feminine clothes also changed, but in the classical sense it’s still an outfit with voluminous top, slim waist and lush bottom (thanks to Christian Dior). And so from what to sew and how to decorate clothes of such a silhouette, designers from decade to decade decide differently.From left to right, top to bottom: coat Jil Sander FW 2012; Dolce & Gabbana FW 2012 skirt; designer Ulyana Sergeenko |
Trends of new femininityNow the girl in the dress of the classical silhouette of new look would look too theatrical (if it is not already mentioned Uliana Sergeenko): tops with skirts and dresses became less magnificent than they were sixty years ago. Yet for voluminous things, appropriate coats are needed - cocoon or flared. Femininity can also be emphasized by versatile sheath dresses that have never left our field of vision, and things with Basques: they have suddenly returned and will remain with us for a long time. |
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From left to right, top to bottom: Asos brooch; the Prada FW 2012 show; blogger Hanneli Mustaparta |
Sheath DressSheath dresses, listed as loved by Jacqueline Kennedy and Michelle Obama, are frequent guests of the catwalks, despite their simplicity. Pragmatic Americans Alexander Wang and Michael Kors sew them from jersey, Japanese Dzyunya Watanabe - from serge, the French Rochas - from brocade. In general, everyone will find their own. |
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| New bowThe legendary new bow appeared in 1947 with the light hand of Christian Dior, who planned to radically change the appearance of women after World War II. Since then, the image with volumetric top, thin waist and full skirt is exploited by all and sundry. For example, in the current season, light interpretations of new onions were shown by Antonio Berardi and Giambattista Valli, besides, this trend in his latest collection for Jil Sander and the first for Dior was supported by Raf Simons. |
OvercoatIf in the past seasons journalists sounded that the coat must be beige or double-breasted, this time the volume is the key concept when choosing outerwear. In the course - cocoon coats, invented by Cristobal Balenciaga in 1957: there are similar in the collections of Celine and Jil Sander. Pay attention to the coat, flared from the waist, like the Burberry Prorsum and Calvin Klein - it's like a dress in the style of new look, only cashmere. |
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BasquesIn the last century, the Basques were one of the last echoes of the glamorous thirties: at the beginning of the next decade, sewing a frill to the waistline was an unsuccessful idea, if only because of the lack of fabric caused by war. The item came back with Diorov's New Onion as part of the bar jacket. They made their next comeback of the Basques exactly a year ago, appearing in the collections of Jason Wu and Rodarte, and now they hold their positions: in the autumn-winter season, Hakaan and Rolan Mure supplemented their dresses. | Feminine prints and colorsFemininity emphasizes not only the silhouette, but also prints with flowers. Of course, flower designs are primarily associated with femininity: with field buttercups and daisies, as in the spring-summer collection of Antono Marras, or with roses, as in the autumn-winter season in Comme des Garcons and Dolce & Gabbana. Feminine colors come from a warm range: for example, pink Chloe, yellow by Christopher Kane, and red-brown Hermes. |
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Show Dior SS 2013; the show of Giorgio Armani FW 2012; lanvin necklace | Elegant accessoriesElegant accessories complete the feminine look. First of all, clutches: from several materials and with crystals, like in Dior, in the spirit of the forties, like in Giorgio Armani, or entirely in the palm, like in Lanvin. As shoes - classic shoes, in our time is preferred sharp-nosed. In addition, you can experiment with hats, long gloves and, of course, belts. |
Femininity in images from moviesFeminine images have always prevailed in the movie: remember the heroines of the actresses of the beginning and middle of the last century, Ava Gardner, Greta Garbo and Elizabeth Taylor, or modern Jessica Chastain and Scarlett Johansson. So you will surely stumble upon girls in beautiful dresses - what a classic movie you do not take. Nowadays, feminine images promote costumed dramas, about which we spoke more than once, and serials referring to one or another epoch - mainly by the 1960s. The heroines of "Marrying a Millionaire" with Marilyn Monroe and "Funny Face" with Audrey Hepburn wore neat hats, cat eye glasses and dresses with flowers and puffy skirts, invented by nine-time Oscar winner Edith Head. You can talk about costumes from the modern series Mad Men forever, and even longer you can look at them: his heroines are literally everything - both volume sundresses, and office blouses with pencil skirts, and cocktail dresses with perfectly tailored decorations. |
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Things in the style of new femininityin online storesNow finding a top or skirt with a basque and a pair of cute boats in online stores is easier than ever. Do not forget to add onions with a clutch and, say, a cocktail ring. Red lipstick is required.
| Jason Wu shoes£454 Brooch lanvin$940 |
Top Stella McCartney£621 Bag Marni$1350 | Jil Sander dress£2846 Tom Binns Necklace$700 |