Under the microscope: How to act for problematic skin
The first impulse in case of inflammation of the skin - smear them with the word "anti-inflammatory" and hope that it will help. The likelihood that it will help is great, but we are all for awareness of everything, so we decided to figure out how remedies for problem skin work, and we learned from Natalia Abramova, the cosmetician of the cosmetology and aesthetics center Embassy of Beauty Than their thoughtless use is fraught.
Salicylic acid
Alpha and omega of all products for problem skin is salicylic acid. Small, colorless crystals of this substance are poorly soluble in water. Great and terrible alcohol comes to the rescue - yes, it dries the skin, but it is thanks to it that cosmetic companies manage to add salicylic acid to everything that flows and smears.
Salicylic acid can only be loved for its ability to heal wounds and fight bacteria. But its action is not limited to this: it helps to renew the skin, breaking the connections between dead cells, this action is called keratolytic. At the same time, some of the cells are peeled off, and the bonds between the remaining ones weaken, which helps other active substances of the cosmetic product to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. In addition, along with dead cells, the bacteria located on them also disappear.
When using salicylic acid, it is important not to bend the stick: in large quantities, it can make the skin sensitive to ultraviolet radiation and cause hyperpigmentation. "Salicylic acid should be used with particular caution for pregnant women, and if there are moles or warts on the face from preparations with a high concentration of BHA, it is worth abstaining at all," cosmetologist Natalya Abramova warns (salicylic acid refers to beta-hydroxy acids and can be hidden by the BHA abbreviation).
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA)
Alpha hydroxy acids include a whole group of acids: glycolic, lactic, citric, malic, tartaric and others. On packages of products they are often designated AHA or codename "fruit acids". Like RPG characters, each AHA has its own characteristics: glycolic penetrates deeper into the skin due to the smallest molecules; milk - the only one of all ANA - not only exfoliates dead cells, but also helps the skin retain moisture; lemon brightens postacne and age spots; Mandelic acid has an antibacterial effect. "If you compare the ANA with salicylic acid, then the latter, due to its antibacterial effect, perfectly copes with acne, and the remaining post acne, due to the whitening effect, will eliminate the ANA," explains Natalia Abramova. By the way, AHA is still used in anti-aging cosmetics because of its exfoliating and brightening properties.
The effectiveness of agents with ANA depends on the concentration of acids and the pH level; using different quantities, you can get almost any tool - from simple cream to professional peeling. In an effective remedy, the concentration of acids should not exceed 10% (all that is higher - only under the supervision of a beautician), and the pH should be in the range of 3.5 to 7 (pH of our skin - 5.5). It is important to know that the use of products with AHA makes the skin sensitive to the sun, so a sanskrin is necessary, and especially concentrated products should be put off until winter. It is best to test it with the acids on the inside of the elbow before using it - this will allow you to see if the concentration of acids is suitable specifically in this cream or mask. And the owners of sensitive or irritated skin from the use of acid peels and masks is better to refrain.
Benzoyl peroxide
It is no secret that many living microorganisms live on the surface of the skin, some of them are the bacteria Propionibacterium acnes, which can cause inflammation on oily skin. Preparations containing benzoyl peroxide are aimed at combating them. Getting on the skin, it provokes the production of oxygen and exfoliation, creating conditions for anaerobic P. acnes that are incompatible with life. "This is a good way to reduce the number of inflammatory elements, even if it does not affect sebum production," says cosmetologist Natalya Abramova. "It is often prescribed for mild to moderate acne." Benzoyl peroxide is often combined with salicylic acid and other antibiotics, as well as adapalen (the main ingredient of the well-known drug "Differin").
In therapeutic preparations, benzoyl peroxide is found in concentrations of 2.5%, 5% and 10%. It is recommended to use 2.5%: a higher percentage is not much more effective, but is much worse perceived by the skin. All drugs with benzoyl peroxide irritate the skin, so they need to be used locally and no more than once a day.
Retinoids
Retinoids - derivatives of retinol, or vitamin A. In itself, the vitamin enters the body with products of plant and animal origin (spinach, carrots, cottage cheese and cheese), and in medical creams are mainly used its derivatives. On the shelves of Russian pharmacies most often found adapalen (in the cream "Differin") and isotretinoin (the main ingredient of retinoic ointment).
Retinoids regulate the process of epidermis renewal and sebum production, thereby creating an unfavorable environment for the life of P. acnes bacteria. According to Natalia Abramova, funds with retinoids are considered among the best in the treatment of acne: they normalize the secretion of sebum and its composition, contribute to the process of exfoliating dead skin cells and enhance the effect of brightening creams. To enhance the effect, they are sometimes used in combination with an antibiotic - the main thing is to choose an antibiotic in such a way that it does not destroy the retinoid molecules themselves.
The list of side effects of retinoids includes dryness, burning, scaling, eczema, increased skin photosensitivity - and this is only the tip of the iceberg. We strongly recommend using these drugs only as directed by a physician. We must not forget about moisturizing and SPF and try to combine retinoids with alcohol lotions and AHA. Isotretinoin, a derivative of retinol, is part of the well-known medicine Roaccutane, according to the list of side effects of which you can shoot a horror film. He has both supporters and opponents, but the fact remains: only a doctor can prescribe this drug, and only after a complete examination of the body.
Azelaic acid
Azelaic acid directly destroys P. acnes bacteria, which cause unpleasant skin inflammations. It is often used as support for the main treatment: antibiotics or hormonal agents. In addition, it promotes skin renewal at sites of infection and is often used for post-acne lightening. The effect of azelaic acid stops simultaneously with the completion of treatment, but it does not act immediately: visible results will appear only after 6-8 weeks. In addition, to azelaic acid retained its effectiveness, it is necessary to take breaks - 2-4 weeks every 2 months.
Zinc oxide
Zinc oxide, an opaque white powder, is used almost everywhere: in liquid crystal screens, zinc white, in the manufacture of surgical gloves and cigarette filters. The ancient Indians used it to disinfect wounds - and this property of zinc oxide and interests us most of all - besides the fact that zinc oxide has sunscreen properties and is often used in appropriate creams.
Zinc oxide, like salicylic acid, does not dissolve in water, but works fine in a crushed form: the smaller the particles of a substance, the better it covers the surface and the stronger its adsorbing and antibacterial properties. Zinc oxide not only helps to fight against the oily skin and bacteria on its surface, but also reduces inflammation, while protecting it from external irritants. Natalia Abramova recommends using it against inflammatory inflammatory acne: it can dry, relieve inflammation and reduce irritation. Zinc ointment and pasta Lassar - one of the most inexpensive and effective ways to combat the already appeared inflammations.
Photo: cover photo, 1, 2, 3 via Shutterstock
