The best thing that happened on New York Fashion Week
Olesya Iva
February and the beginning of March - hotter time for the fashion industry: one after another are the main world fashion weeks, where they show the collections of the future autumn and winter of 2016. The first in this series was traditionally the New York Week, which was remembered by two socially important shows. So, models with disabilities participated in the show of the FTL Moda brand, and Jamie Brewer, a film actress with Down's Syndrome, famous for her role in the American Horror Story series, took the podium at Carrie Hammer. From the point of view of breaking through the fashion of events, there were few Judging by the week, the brands are following the beaten path: many American designers took up the latest Céline, Louis Vuitton and Dior collections, as well as the early works of Helmut Lang and Miuccia Prada (the latter, for example, quoted by Marc Jacobs). However, despite the crisis of ideas, several outstanding shows did happen.
Kanye West Collection Show for adidas Originals
Kanye West has long approached fashion. The musician showed his first female collection in 2011 in Paris. Critics have taken it to bayonets. The Guardian then released a material with the headline: "Is there a room at Paris fashion week for Kanye West's ego?". Later, Kanye admitted that he first invented leather workouts, offering them Fendi six years ago, but the Italians refused to cooperate. Hip-hop stars only showed themselves in fashion only from the third time.
"Awesome is possible", - was voiced in the monologue of Kanye before the showing of the collection Yeezy for adidas Originals. Show Kanye has become one of the most popular in social networks. In the front row were Rihanna, Beyonce, Jay Z, of course, Kim Kardashian, next to Anna Wintour. More than 50 models of different gender, race, and not always standard model parameters participated in the show, and Kylie Jenner didn’t do without it. The Yeezy collection consisted of kapron tights and bra-tops, torn sweaters and stretched sweatshirts, as well as military items: bombers and vests, similar to body armor. However, the main product here became sneakers adidas Yeezy 750 Boost. Kanye was reproached for replicas of the early works of Helmut Lang, Maison Martin Margiela, Rick Owens and Raf Simons. In an interview with Style.com, Kanye does not deny that he is borrowing ideas ("You guys know my fucking influences"), and talks about the importance of synthesis. In fact, you can not recognize the genius of Kanye, but one can not but agree with the fact that he offered a universal neutral clothes, emphasizing the body, which, according to him, should save the consumer from the agony of what to wear. “We are all equal,” says Kanye. And indeed, most of the things from the Yeezy collection can be worn by both men and women.
Alexander Wang show
According to Alexander Wang's collections and shows, it is always easiest to count the main trends of the season. If in the spring he returned sex to the podiums and continued to work with the topic of sport, this time he marked the key trend of the coming autumn - gothic and black total-bows. The designer commented on his work with black color like this: "Customers love black. So why not make all things black?" Stylized the show, it seems, not looking up from the health-gothic accounts on Instagram: black jackets as if from the men's shoulder combined with sexy dresses and rough platform creepers. Wang used a lot of black velvet, leather, rivets and metal. The designer succeeded in parks of silver nylon and transparent dresses of fine chain mail. He also showed jeans from his denim line, and chose the weird techno of Frenchman Gesaffelstein as the soundtrack.
Show Hood By Air
One of the most important shows again was the show Hood By Air - a brand founded by DJ duo GHE20 G0TH1K Shane Oliver. Being a real visionary, Shane overtook many people long ago on the part of filing collections: he then assembles a symphony orchestra on Pitti Uomo, then he calls to speak at a hip-hopper A $ AP Rocky or Mickey Blanco. This time the show was staged in an abandoned room of an old bank on Wall Street and the styling had direct references to the image of a ghetto burglar. Capron stockings were put on the models' heads (makeup was applied over the caprone), and metal false jaws protruded from the mouth of the guys. Transformations have undergone not only the faces and teeth of the models, but also the clothes. Especially Shane succeeded wide pleated trousers, strapped on his lap with straps. In the collection, he also rethought the form of prisoners, continued to use deconstruction techniques and created an almost monstrous-looking thing. Separately, I would like to note Shane’s peculiar response to Rick Owens’s scandalous collection, where male models flaunted on the catwalk without underwear, Hood By Air showed dresses and skirts on guys with a very deep neckline.
Proenza Schouler Show
Designers of the Proenza Schouler brand Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez created one of the most interesting collections in New York, although you can find many intersection points with the latest Alexander McQueen, Marni and Céline collections. However, the main field for the experiments of Proenza Schouler is again becoming the fabric and its texture. Brand designers are actively using tweed, knitwear and knitting. These materials are twisted into bows and knots, cut into large fringe, used as a bandage tape, creating tight-fitting dresses, or leave things as if they are incomplete. Red and black and white colors, feathers and rivets clearly refer to the early works of Alexander McQueen - and not by chance: in March in London opens the largest retrospective of his works. Laconic decorations, wide belts, mules and crazy tights in a large mesh deserve attention. In addition, the androgynous Dutchman Jelle Jaen participated in the show. He did the same makeup as other models.
Rodarte show
Kate and Laura Mallivi, designers of the brand Rodarte, continue to draw inspiration from the fashion of the 70s. In the new season, they have relied on commercial things, repeating the stylistic ideas of Ghesquière and Slimane. So, the sisters of Malliwi again showed tight-fitting trousers (this time leather, as well as lace inserts) in combination with light blouses, lace-up ankle boots, tops with mesh inserts and sequins, a block with asymmetrical evening dresses decorated with feathers and beads , glass beads and sequins. Designers used a lot of transparent lace, but focused on simple styling: at least take mini-skirts and dresses in combination with ankle boots, vinyl leather jackets, festival microshorts and T-shirts, chokers in the form of belts, striped disco dresses on one shoulder. But the makeup of the show was once again simple and ingenious: the lower eyelid was decorated with arrows from rhinestones. The soundtrack for the show was Portishead, Bee Gees and Clan of Xymox.
Marc by Marc Jacobs Show
English women Katie Hillier and Luela Bartley continue to turn Marc by Marc Jacobs into the most progressive and youth brand. In the new season, they rehabilitate berets and suddenly turn to grunge techniques from the 90s, showing skirts to the floor with patch pockets, connect the red cage and black lace, mix on different things baroque prints, put the words “Suffragist” and “Solidarity” on the clothes and "Unite", sew leather jackets and black velvet puppet dresses, and also show their version of waist bags. In addition, following Wang Marc by Marc Jacobs, creepers and metal rivets are back in fashion. The soundtrack to the show speaks about the radicalism of the designers: hits about rebellion and freedom from Mark of Bolan to Children of the Revolution to Born free by M.I.A.