Mesh Things in Spring-Summer Collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how to wear things out of the net today in the wake of sports, which appeared this season even in the Christian Dior fashion couture collection.
How it all began
Closeness and openness in clothes are definitely related to the ideas about the body. Transparency in clothing has a different meaning, but primarily dictated by the culture of emancipation and sexual revolutions. Especially at a time when the fashion industry focuses on the younger generation. So it was in the 60s, when a Casbah mini dress appeared in the wake of a miniskirt, in which the English supermodel Gene Shrimpton posed in 1965. Dress invented by John Bates, who sewed dresses for the TV series "Avengers" with Diana Rigg in the lead role. Casbah dress was a crochet top and mini-skirt, connected by a mesh insert through which the belly was visible. The mesh was an unusual material for women's clothing, as it used to be used only for the production of men's T-shirts. This dress, like mini-skirts, has become a sign of change and a new social order. The next who worked with the grid was Paco Rabann, who experimented with industrial design in his first collection in 1966. Dress shirt from metal disks knows, probably, almost everyone. The next milestone for things from the grid will be the end of the 80s - a time when excessiveness and aggressive sexuality (remember tights in the net) came to the fore (especially in America), and aerobics, Botox and silicone implants were in vogue. Madonna’s heroine comes up in memory from the film “Desperately Looking for Susan”: she wears alternately either a mesh T-shirt with a transparent bodice, a basketball jersey from a bright pink mesh with lots of beads and gold earrings - and clearly rebels. The vulgar style of the Madonna of that time will long live in the minds of girls all over the world. Then the net will come back again and linger in the 90s on a wave of sports style, TLC clips and street sports like basketball.
How to wear mesh stuff now
The mesh boom happened last spring, exactly a year ago, when the mosquito collection Alexander McQueen was born, Phoebe Faylo showed things with mesh inserts, Holly Fulton had Panamas mesh, and Claire Waite Keller had shorts, skirts and tops. from the grid for Chloé, and many other designers have used this fabric. However, this season's sporting style is close to its climax, and things from the net coexist in a logical way on the podiums with football leggings (Prada), baseball canopies (Marni), elastic sports belts (such Marni are offered to wear over evening dresses), and bermuda shorts like basketball players (Marc by Marc Jacobs). So, Christopher Kane continued last year’s grid theme in its cruise collection, showing transparent things with a 3D grid. By the way, it was Kane who was one of the first (it turns out, a year ago) who showed the obligatory thing of this season - a transparent pencil skirt.
For designers, mesh is a comfortable material - for example, a classic feminine dress or coat will look a hundred times more successful if they are sewn from a sports mesh. Raf Simons, for example, did just that, building the latest couture (!) Collection around a perforated grid, creating translucent dresses, jackets and coats. Ukrainian designer Yasya Minochkina does the same thing as early as next season and releases models in feminine dresses, coats and bomber jackets sewn from the grid onto the catwalk. Jonathan Rizz shows bomber jackets, sweatshirts, jackets, skirts with frills from the grid. Japanese Chitose Abe for Sacai makes dress-shirts and dress-bags of the grid. Sportmax show mesh dresses, suits and a pencil skirt. Fendi include in a collection a dress from a grid, and also things from the translucent materials reminding mesh fabric. Separately, we can say about the Americans who cultivate the sport. Reed Krakoff next to translucent dresses show snow-white sweatshirts and skirts from the grid, Americans Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim - tops, skirts from a perforated grid, Wes Gordon in the footsteps of Paco Rabanne - a pencil skirt and tops from a metal grid.
BEWARE!
The most successful things from the grid (they will not be hot in summer) are bombers, pencil skirts, as well as accessories (Panamas, backpacks). Great luck to find an opaque crochet top from a double mesh and wear it with a bomber jacket, though with a silk tuxedo It is best to choose one thing from the grid, although if you find a bomber jacket and a skirt from one grid with a set, then take everything together - you will not lose. Remember that things from the mesh open the body and suggest that you put something opaque on the bottom. Otherwise, you face the title of a basketball exhibitionist.
PHOTO: Getty Images / Fotobank (1), Sipa Press / Fotodom (3)