In addition to Demny: 8 designers from Georgia who need to know
MERCEDES-BENZ FASHION WEEK TBILISI PASSED IN TBILISI - a week that, in terms of content and lighting, will be the envy of Russia. 45 shows that are interesting to watch, and editors of The Daily Telegraph, Vogue.com and W Magazine, which run between breathtaking locations, mixed with a dozen street style photographers. We chose 8 designers from Georgia, whose collections can organically fit into any wardrobe.
Situationist
Perhaps the hottest brand from Tbilisi is now: the model Bella Hadid was noticed in it, and two times that in the era of social networks a big event for a small brand. For the Givenchy fitting, Hadid came in a black leather trench to the floor, for dinner with Ricardo Tishi - in a mini-skirt and boots.
Behind the brand is a duet of Irakli Rusadze and David Giorgadze, who launched Situationist in 2015. To say that there is something revolutionary in the works of the guys is difficult, but the integrity and attention to detail, which many young designers lack, are captivating. This is aesthetics with a touch of Vetements (as Liana Satenshtein from Vogue.com rightly observes), but if there is a reference, then at the beginning of the work Demna Gvasalia, when there were no thousands and one hoody with the logo in the Vetements collection.
The brand succeeds in suits - to take at least a voluminous black, gray or cream with a turtleneck, - as well as work with complex materials - take a closer look at burgundy trench coats and suede trousers from the show. They wrote everything about the brand from Nowfashion.com to Cosmo.ru, and the way to the buyers' heart lies through commercial basic things, which also Situationist have plenty of.
Dalood
Dalood is one of the most commercially successful Georgian brands, which can be found on Farfetch.com and in Moscow TSUM. The secret of the brand's success is denim with embroidery, which is hard to resist even the most distant from the love of everything elegant. In the new autumn-winter collection, Maka Kvitsiani takes blue washed-denim, as in the collection of Yeezy Season 5, and supplies it with elegant black flowers from beads. Price in retail - about 30 thousand rubles per item. Dalood also has decent blouses with bows and flared trousers with sequins and velvet bottle-green suits, which may be worth paying special attention to when making PR stamps.
Lalo
Brand knitwear with great potential. Sometimes it is difficult to consider the beauty of things behind the coarse styling, but you need to try - it's worth it. The branded model of the brand is a cardigan made of giant braided braid, monochrome or gradient. In the FW'17 collection, Lalo Dolidze goes to the side of the combination of mohair and feathers and expands his clothing line. All things, as well as related shoes (also Lalo) are already sold in the online store of the brand - isn’t the concept of "see now buy now"? Lalo is committed to mass success, choosing a clear strategy: the brand is preparing a collection of knitwear of minimalist design, hoping to attract those who are not interested in lenses in street-style photographers in cardigans and coats.
Nicolas Grigorian
One of the most promising new designers from Tbilisi. A graduate of the Tbilisi State Academy of Fine Arts, Nicholas Grigoryan showed at this time only eighteen bows - but what kind. Obviously, in the next season, all young Georgian girls interested in fashion can be seen in his “school” dresses, perhaps in slippers with socks — as shown by the designer himself. Grigoryan is almost the only one who added to the new collection of T-shirts with prints that looked very funny and fresh at the very show, especially after the dominance of leather coats to the floor with his colleagues. Judging by the brand's instagram, the brand has a few more hits: graphic jumpers with a high throat with zippers, textural ankle boots with small heels and leather jackets with ironic prints, created especially for Tbilisi KM20, Chaos Concept Store.
Matériel by Aleksander Akhalkatsishvili
Matériel is the first fashion house in Georgia, founded already in 1949. What the brand has done is unique and does not rely on similar global experience: every season it works with three or four designers who show separate independent collections during the Fashion Week.
Perhaps the most confident of them was Alexander Akhalkatsishvili. An obvious fan of the works of J.W.Anderson and Céline, that in 2017 is by no means a bad thing, he made a complete statement in which everything is organic: from large metal earrings and brooch pins to lacquer quilted shoppers and, of course, clothing. Coats in the floor with cut-outs at the waist, skirts and trousers with similarly complex cut-outs, an olive-colored leather trench coat, perhaps not commercial, but elegant things. Collections are sold in the online store of the house, where you can now find an excellent dress-combination Aleksander Akhalkatsishvili with a cut from the hip for $ 335.
Tamuna ingorokva
This year, the Tamuna Ingorokva brand is fifteen years old. A graduate of the Paris school ESMOD creates really "adult" collections, which, for example, are models of Doutzen Cruz and Romy Strade. Her skate is leather, the Georgian designers do not have the ability to work with her. This time, leather goods of non-trivial colors looked best: a blue suit, a turquoise coat and scarlet capri pants. Another strong group is transparent dresses in the spirit of the 1970s with velvet padding and suits with jackets resembling an hourglass. We look forward to the development of its knitted line: sweaters from mohair with a lowered shoulder line also looked promising.
Anouki
Anuki Areshidze is primarily known for the line of shoes with embroidery, which won the online store Avenue32.com. If the deliberately girlish collection of clothes is not close to you, you should pay close attention to the Cossacks and heavy military boots with crystals, shown in the mountains against the background of the Tbilisi funicular. Like denim with embroidery - a bit more modest and adult than other things. Areshidze deserves respect for an integrated approach to creating a collection: she shows shirts with trousers and dresses, and even down jackets, while many of her colleagues simply forget about seasonality.
Matériel by Lado Bokuchava
Designer Lado Bokuchava has already entered his place in the history of Georgian fashion thanks to his personal project Atelier Kikala - the more interesting was the result of the new collaboration with Matériel. He showed, perhaps, the most unusual outerwear among colleagues. Coats and cardigans with a belt-smell at the waist fit absolutely everything. He also succeeded in fitting knit dresses with cuts and models of silk with cutouts on the waist and hips, otherwise I would like a little more understanding of the autumn-winter season. And the excuse that Tbilisi is not Moscow with its +3 in May, in this case does not work.