New sexuality

In the constant rubric "Tendency" we closely look at trends that in one way or another affect our appearance every six months, but we reflect on them in the context of more significant trends.

The material "New Sexuality" - about how designers have departed from frankness in the Versace style and show the eroticism of girls in a more restrained manner.

Text: Liza Kologreeva

How and why designers turned to sexuality

Now on Givenchy and J.W. Anderson guys wear skirts, and every second girl on the catwalk is wearing a tuxedo. However, most designers do not experiment with gender and talk about different ways to show traditional sexuality. For example, they include one of the most influential people in the fashion industry, the creative director of Lanvin Alber Elbaz, who emphasizes femininity in every collection. The last time sexuality was one of the main trends in the time of the fetish collection of Louis Vuitton. And then wearing dresses of patent leather with stockings without a twinge of conscience could only the most daring heroines of street-style blogs. Having experienced periods of love for tenderness and femininity, designers return sexuality in a new interpretation - now it is barely noticeable. This is not about the dominantrix, but about girls in transparent dresses, from under which you can barely see bodices and shorts, or in short tops with tight skirts with a high waist.

From left to right, top to bottom: campaign Saint Laurent SS 2013; shooting from Love; editor Christine Kentener; filming Stephen Klein; Chanel ad with Claudia Slate; fitting Yves Saint Laurent; filming Numero with Anna Selezneva; filming Kate Moss for Love

“Clothing is sex, and the ability to do it in one way or another dictates what to wear today,” writes Hadley Freeman of the Guardian. Fashion exploits sexuality from year to year: Diesel and Tom Ford shoot outright campaigns, then nude Kate Moss and Leah Ti kiss on the cover of Love. Of course, this concerns not only filming, but also clothing. Considering the spring-summer collection, we counted at least ten ways to become sexier. For example, wear a dress made of transparent fabric, like Francesco Scognamiglio and Marios Schwab. Or cropped tops with mini shorts on the advice of Isabel Marant and Topshop Unique. Well, in a pinch, we should not forget about red lipstick, the strength of which was spoken by Sigmund Freud: Missoni and Prada, among others, use it.

Trends of sexuality

It is especially important not to overdo it: you risk to look vulgar. If you wear a chiffon thing, you need to take care of suitable underwear: neutral sconces fit without unnecessary details and pants with a high waist. Short tops can be worn with jackets, and mini shorts with long shirts and sweatshirts. For animalistic prints you need to pick up things in neutral shades, and you should not combine things with animal colors among themselves. Well, if you are, of course, not a master of a combination of prints.

TRANSPARENT FABRICS

We are already accustomed to chiffon dresses, which this season show Chloe with Erdem, and a combination of transparent blouses and skirts, like those of David Kom and Olivier Teyskens. Then this time Akris and Celine went: they suggest wearing a dress from a net over a naked body.

CROPTED TOPS

Cropped tops are usually sent back to the 1990s. Diesel and Dion Lee look sporty, John Gallino and Topshop Unique are reminiscent of underwear, while Phillip Lima looks like an element of the wardrobe of a teenager who loves Kurt Cobain.

MINI

Without the length of the mini in spring and summer that appeared in the 1960s, nowhere. Recalling the Kennedy and Warhol epoch, Louis Vuitton makes a pair of models in short coats on the catwalk, Gianfranco Ferre, Prada and Valentino make mini-shorts and Aquilano.Rimondi - dresses.

COUPLING

Tight-fitting dresses became popular thanks to brands like Herve Leger. In the new season, the American brand is imitated by Azzaro and Mark Fast. Jason Wu and Prada demonstrate tight fitting suits, and Haider Ackermann suits.

CUTS

The vast majority of designers are experimenting with cutouts. Balmain and Carven emphasize neckline, while Anthony Vaccarello and Marios Schwab focus on hips.

SCARLET AND ANIMALISTIC PRINTS

Short dresses are colored in scarlet Costume National, and costumes by Jonathan Saunders. By the way, as a top under the jacket, the British designer advises to wear a bra. Animalistic prints do not go away either: Max Mara makes leopard skirts, and Preen uses snake color.

Sexy heroines of movies and TV shows

There are as many ideas about sexuality as there are people, so Alice is attracted from the Resident Evil, and Ramon from Scott Pilgrim is against everyone. There are also film heroines who have long become models of sexuality: Jane with pink hair from Proximity, almost all of James Bond's girlfriends in beautiful evening dresses, and also bohemian Eva Green in Dreamers. The same applies to girls from the series - the heroines of "Mad Men" or "Force Majeure."

Mini, tight and transparent in online stores

Transparent blouses made of black chiffon, tight-fitting dresses with body-accent inserts, black and gold pumps and other things that will help make the image sexier have already appeared in the stores.