Oh no, not that: Edie Slimane collection for Saint Laurent Paris
Edie Slimane showed the second women's collection for Saint Laurent: floral dresses, fishnet tights and leopard coats, which caused a lot of questions and associations with Topshop and other mass-market. Look At Me understands what's wrong. Text: Liza Kologreeva |
A year ago, Raf Simons was appointed creative director of Dior, and Edie Slimane - Yves Saint Laurent. Today, the homes of Dior and Saint Laurent are in diametrically opposite situations. The first is treated kindly by critics, the second is fighting off scandals with Katie Horin and a couple of journalists. The culprit of the incident, Edie Slimane, works remotely from Los Angeles, and seems to be unable to find the time to fly to Paris and look into the archives of the Yves Saint Laurent. In his first collection for the brand, Saint-Laurent's homage was traced: costumes are an interpretation of the famous tuxedo, and floor-length dresses in combination with wide-brimmed hats are a tribute to the seventies, in which the French designer became famous. The second collection at first glance causes only bewilderment, and not only here. Journalist Eric Wilson on the The Runway blog quotes guest impressions: "I suddenly felt very old." Regulars fashionable online forums react even harder. For example, in comments on Style.com they write: "Yves Saint Laurent wrote a letter to Tom Ford with the words" In thirteen minutes of the catwalk show, you destroyed forty years of my career. "What do you think he would say about this collection?"
WHAT IS SAINT LAURENT FROM TOPSHOP, RIVER ISLAND OR NEW LOOK?
For clarity: the models were defiled in cardigans with hearts, leather shorts, fishnet tights and other items not inherent in Saint Laurent girls' wardrobe items. Each bow could be collected for half an hour in the shopping center "European". However, if you look at the situation with a sober look: is it possible to present these models in the exemplary glamorous Saint Laurent Stefano Pilati? So that “same YSL” fits for iPad generation, 3D prints and whore robots?
Yves Saint Laurent and Edie Slimane - each in his own time - create clothes for the cool guys. Saint Laurent wore Bohemia: remember at least his muse Lulu de la Falez - all in black, hung with massive ornaments and smokes without stopping. And today Slimane works for a modern bohemian - let her shred and wear torn father's shirts. The current artists are much more democratic: a good friend of Sliman, The Kills singer Alison Mosshart would wear an outfit from the first collection of Saint-Laurent except for Halloween. A terrible new leather skirt Slimana - completely.
Sliman, consciously or not, is building a new paradigm when a fashion house is inspired by the mass market, and not vice versa. Moreover, the mass market is not even today's, but a sample of 2007. Why? Because the customers of Edie Sliman, the very Bohemian for whom the YSL house has always worked, have changed? Because such artistic intelligentsia are no longer clients of the “same” house of Saint Laurent? Trying to get into the spirit of the times, Edie Slimane with this collection has every chance to fall between two chairs: a real bohemian is no longer shameful to go out and buy a “real Topshop”, and the old clientele will most likely faint.