Turtlenecks in the autumn-winter collections
In the new category Wonderzine we talk about trends from the podium, which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how the functional top worn by athletes, military and programmers, is again gaining popularity.
How it all began
The first turtlenecks began to wear the military - like other functional things. The element of everyday wardrobe becomes a top with a blind collar in the 1920s: the playwright Noel Kaward introduced fashion. In the post-war years, a turtleneck begins to be perceived as an attribute of bitism and a symbol of intellectual bohemian as a whole. The peak of popularity of this type of stamp reaches in 1957, when the film "Funny Face" with Audrey Hepburn. Remember how the actress danced in tight turtleneck and pants? High fashion legitimizes turtlenecks in the 1960s: thanks to Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Cardin, they replace a shirt in a men's suit. At that time, New York-based boutique Bonwit Teller sells a huge amount of divers on a weekly basis - they say they are swept away not only by ordinary people, but also by actors Paul Newman and Steve McQueen. The latter, by the way, wears a black turtleneck in “Bullitt”: the film is not that outstanding, but has become part of the history of fashion.
Since the 1970s, turtleneck has been a symbol of the feminist movement. And they are very fond of Miles Davis, Stevie Wonder, and fighters for the rights of black people - for example, Kathleen Cleaver. In the 1990s, turtlenecks flash in the catwalk collections of Gilles Zander, and nowadays Phoebe Faylo and Stella McCartney are connected to it. For all three designers, they are a uniform and a real hit of sales. Five years ago, turtlenecks were associated with nerds, and also became significant things for Vladimir Putin and Steve Jobs, but now their reputation is changing. The New York Times writes that this piece of clothing shows the sexuality of our day. Not for nothing that there is a phrase "smart is the new sexy". Do not forget that turtlenecks are part of the form of athletes. Perhaps they will be again at the peak at the Olympic Games in Sochi in 2014.
How to wear a turtleneck now
If the turtleneck is tight, it should have a complex texture: Balenciaga offers tops, as if painted, Carven - with a ribbed surface, Felder Felder - from wine velvet. Voluminous turtlenecks are minimalistic: in Céline they are white with deliberately long sleeves, in Eudon Choi they are complicated only by cuts on the sides. Bottega Veneta and Chalayan show basic turtlenecks - similar, but less expensive materials can be found in Uniqlo. There are no restrictions on wearing turtlenecks: they can be tucked into baggy pants, as Balmain stylists do, you can wear a skirt with a skirt, like Jil Sander. Some brands offer ways to wear turtlenecks, which were popular in the Russian past. So, Haider Ackermann wears a voluminous top under the jacket as if from a man’s shoulder, and Cushnie et Ochs - under a simple dress without sleeves. Simon Port Jacquimou and his colleagues from among the designers who grew up in the 1990s, sew short turtlenecks. Wearing them as a separate item allows for a beautiful press and warm weather, otherwise you can wear them with a spacious shirt.
BEWARE!
One of the few taboos here is knitwear with a collar, like a turtleneck, especially if they fit the figure tightly: they have become cliches. But if you want this, it is worth taking an example from the British designer Jonathan Anderson: he created a slightly voluminous turtleneck dress with a panel intercepting one hand and a knot on the skirt. Especially close attention should be paid to the material: it is better to buy a good quality turtleneck from cashmere, which will last more than one season - they are unlikely to go out of fashion, considering at least Russian weather conditions.