Desert, fireworks, caramel: Aromas that will warm in winter
Text: Ksenia Golovanova
If you, like us, really difficult To get out of the warm embrace of the blanket, it is worthwhile to surround yourself with comfort on all sides during the day. Aromas are often divided into "winter" and "summer", and in our weather conditions the meaning of this classification is quite transparent, which does not cancel the flour of choice. We asked perfume critic Ksenia Golovanov to collect the perfect bouquet of warming smells: from the sea and desert sand to a home party with tangerines and maple syrup.
Noir de Noir, Tom Ford
16 350 rubles
Truffle, saffron, rose, vanilla - the notes declared in Noir de Noir, remind of the contents of gift baskets, which at the end of the evening carry the most dear guests of the authoritative gastronomic award. In general, if you need to describe Tom Ford perfumery with a single word, then this word is “expensive”: there is some amazing chord in all the fragrances of the collection, a condensate of vitality, which the chic Pelevinsky vampires lovingly call “bablosom” - mere mortals emit it of money. So the vampire Noir de Noir, a dark and spicy rose that maintains a perfect balance between sweetness and earthy notes, elusively smells of success, a leather armrest in the business class lounge and a dessert in a Michelin restaurant.
Œillet Bengale, Aedes de Venustas
18 500 rubles
Oeillet Bengale, perhaps the best perfume clove from now existing. Restrictions on the use of raw materials necessary to create a plausible clove note complicate the task of the perfumer — for example, the re-formulated Bellodgia of Caron, which was previously considered the main clove soliflor, suffered greatly. Rodrigo Flores-Roux returns to the carnation its fiery, Zoroastrian character with the help of exotic spices. He finds the perfect edge for scarlet silk Oeillet Bengale - a mineral chord, gray and foggy, like smoke from fireworks.
Escapade à Byzance, Olibere Parfums
8500 rubles
Bertrand Duchaufour gives the classic "Duchofur" - draws a complex mandala on a cold, like a marble board, incense, letting thin multicolored streams of ground spices between the fingers. Dry, hot, dusty aroma of an old house in Southeast Asia.
Like This, État Libre d'Orange
7500 rubles
État Libre d'Orange made Like This along with Tilda Swinton, who, judging by her roles, could put the word "eternity" out of perfume ice, but she ended up brewing a completely unexpected mess. Like This smells of spicy pumpkin latte, candied ginger, tangerines, maple syrup — cozy, homemade things, the totality of which does not wonderfully slip into the poetry of a warm checkered rug.
Madera, Omnia Profumi
5900 rubles
A strange but recurring phenomenon: jewelry brands often have good fragrances. Here you can recall the Boucheron of the French brand of the same name, and the Bulgari tea line, and half of Cartier's perfume portfolio - the original Déclaration, the beautiful Soiire chypre, a wonderful Baiser Volé lily. In the same family, let us note the perfumery of the Italian jewelers Omnia Gioielli, who have quietly released more than a dozen fragrances. All of them are named after precious stones and jewelery alloys, but by themselves much more interesting than the concept. Take at least "Madeira" (as jewelers call dark, almost orange citrines), an excellent caramel jam in the spirit of Serge Lutens Un Bois Vanille - a whole vat of hot golden caramel with vanilla and coconut cream.
Paris-Seychelles, Pierre Guillaume Collection Croisière
15 800 rubles
The “cruise collection” by perfumer Pierre Guillaume (created fragrances for Parfumerie Générale and Phaedon) is a fresh reading of a perfume template, often spoken of in a disparaging tone, of the aquatic genre. Paris-Seychelles talks about the sea, and the feeling of the sea is completely island-like: when you feel water everywhere, wherever you go, even if you don’t see it. So here - not the "sea" synthetics reminds of the ocean, but the smell of salt that has appeared on the skin, delicate flower fragrance of sunburn and coconut oil, which is sold on the beach.
Chergui, Serge Lutens
6900 rubles
Chergui is an oriental scent of a classic device: a sonorous and sparkling citrus "crown", a warm tobacco-amber heart. The game of contrasts constitutes, in addition to the structure, the lion's share of its charm: the heat from glowing tobacco and sweet heated hay is cooled by cold Iris and clean, cold musk. The temperature drop is just like in the desert, which “Shergi” owes its name - this is what Morocco calls the hot and dusty wind that blows from the Sahara.
Photo: Parfum Palace, Pudra, Central Department Store, Ile de Beaute, Molecule, Fapex, SpellSmell