Fringed Things in Spring-Summer Collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how brands from luxury Valentino to avant-garde like Junya Watanabe use fringe in their collections.
How it all began
Fringe - a decorative element, which is a hanging thread, laces or other pendants. Historically, we know, the fringe was an element of Indian clothing and cowboys. In the twenties of the last century, Madeleine experimented with Madeleine Vionne: in her clothes appeared flappers girls, whose dresses made of fringe swayed beautifully in time with the sounds of live instruments. In the 50s, Rita Hayworth and Elvis Presley were associated with fringe. The king of rock and roll wore leather jackets with a fringe - the same as those of other musicians - from the Harley-Davidson motor club "Hell's Angels". The return of authentic American style with suede and fringe is associated with hippies. Jean Shrimpton, Penelope Three, a young Cher often appeared in fringe dresses. In 1976, Twiggy presented its festival collection of suede fringed jackets at the Royal Festival Hall (it seems that Kate Moss is now following in her footsteps, creating the appropriate jackets for Topshop). In 1987, Azzedine Alaya will create for Tina Turner a cult dress with brilliant fringe, in the 90s Jean-Paul Gautier - the famous fringed collection for his fashion house. Today, it is generally difficult to surprise someone with a fringe - it is used as a decoration of accessories and clothing everywhere.
How to wear things with a fringe now
Modern women's fashion has long been a set of commercial elements (material, color, length), which can manifest itself from season to season, adapting to the collections and DNA of various brands. Take at least the same pink color or wide trousers that have gained popularity over several seasons and will eventually stay with us in the spring of 2015: selling well means staying. With a fringe similar story, which is supported by the return of the so-called boho style. 60s-style dresses, suede, hippy-rockers at Edie Sliman’s latest show, capes, Burberry Prorsum autumn hippie collection, the return of sheepskin coats, cowboy pre-dalallian Chanel collection by Karl Lagerfeld, the popularity of denim from unprocessed Marques'Almeida - boho-style is back for everyone who is tired of sports and minimalism and waited to dress up according to the canons of Janice Joplin's wardrobe. And, of course, things in the style of boho and fringe, by the way, returned to the festival summer.
This is not to say that the fringe is the most obvious trend of the season. This element, which was, is and will be present on the podiums and in the shop windows always. The Italian house Valentino, which has been working with a fringe since the 60s, is indicative in this respect - this year's spring show opened an image with a luxurious embroidered cape decorated with fringe. In addition, the collection included fringed bags, jackets and dresses made of colored suede. In the fall, Valentino again has a fringe. And in the cruise of the future, 2015, of course, too. The creative directors of the Valentino house, Maria Grazia Kyuri and Pier-Paolo Piccioli, use this decorative element with considerable consistency - because it is in demand.
Much of the modern use of the fringe was said in the Jil Sander Spring-Summer 2009 collection. Then the creative director of the brand, Raf Simons, showed dresses with fringe decorated with various techniques. These techniques today can be seen in the collections of many brands.
Missoni uses a lot of fringe this season: they decorate skirts, dresses, tops, thus mixing not only colors, but also textures. Calvin Klein shows dresses with cross-fringe, as well as tweed jackets with protruding colored threads. Marc Jacobs shows hussar jackets, the sleeves of which decorate the fringe, as well as sweatshirts and hoodies with tassels. THE ROW fringed with black dresses and bags, and also combine things with fringe with strict bleurs. Rodarte mix cropped tops, shirts, buttoned over the top button, and fringed skirt visors, as worn by chol girls from Los Angeles. However, Rodarte's designers, sisters Kate and Laura Malliwi, transfer the fringe from collection to collection every season.
Avant-garde Junya Watanabe builds an entire spring collection around fringe-decorated things, from tops and trousers to coats and asymmetrical shirts. The Topshop Unique has a collection of fringed scarves, jackets and skirts with raw edges, as well as dresses decorated with sparkles. We see the fringe even in the spring collection 3.1 Phillip Lim, which boho-aesthetics are not at all close to - she is decorated with translucent bermuda shorts and tops. Designers add fringe, even in those collections that this technique would not seem to suggest. For example, Alexander Wang includes a black T-shirt dress decorated with a long tail of yarn on the back of the pre-fall 2014 masculine collection, while Jonathan Anderson in the 2015 cruise collection features a skirt and an asymmetrical fringed top resembling handmade macrame. Albert Elbaz in the Lanvin autumn collection decorates silk dresses, tops and skirts with long threads.
BEWARE!
Things with a fringe need not be interpreted literally and worn as hippies in the third generation - with Cossacks and wide-brimmed hats. Although if you have become attached to such a wardrobe with all your heart, no one can dress you in such a way, just like dyeing your hair green. But, in our opinion, it is more interesting to mix things with a fringe with something sudden. For example, with things in the street style: massive sneakers, caps. On the fringe, you can cut any crop top and wear, as in childhood, with bright leggings. Dress with a fringe in the style of flappers also should not be understood literally and decorate hair with feathers, better wear it with some kind of collaborative ugly sneakers.
Well, the last moment is that for the city the fringe is not the most convenient decorative element, as it constantly strives to please in the cracks or catch on something. Therefore, wear things with a fringe neatly, especially if you decide to ride a bike in the form of a hippie disturber of urban tranquility. In addition, you can choose things with raw edges, bristling threads of which are also quite a fringe.
Photo: Getty Images / Fotobank (2), Sipa / Fotodom (3)