12 main events of the year in the fashion world
CONTINUING THE RESULTSof the year and remember the most important events that we will remember in 2014. The main characters are pop stars, stylists are inspired by the 2000s — the era of consumption, everyone is striking pragmatism and looking for new uses for things — for example, this year the movement of après-sports has become apparent and overalls have returned to fashion. The industry has become more attentive to the consumer, who doesn’t have to think about clothes at all (hello, normcor!) And is free to experiment as you please (how are you, health goths?). We tell what other events were the main this year.
1
Faces of the Year: Pop Stars
In 2014, it became crystal clear: pop stars rule fashion. Kim Kardashian, Niki Minaj, Rita Ora, Rihanna - their images are familiar to millions, which means they sell. The instagrams of these artists are more influential today than the world glossy magazines (not yet in Russia). One of the first in the 2010s to actively shoot music stars - from Marilyn Manson and Kim Gordon to Sky Ferreira - in advertising campaigns was Edie Sliman. In this way, Slimane launched the rebranding of the old French fashion house Saint Laurent and led him to success.
Not surprisingly, in 2014, Rihanna received a CFDA award from Anna Wintour’s hands for her contribution to style. Madonna is involved in a new advertising campaign Versace. Roberto Cavalli is shooting for her campaigns Rita Oru and Nicki Minaj in the images of Marilyn Monroe of the XXI century. Kim Kardashian along with Kanye West are on the cover of Vogue, and now they also advertise the Balmain spring collection. Sports giants Nike, adidas and Puma fight for pop stars and sign contracts with the same heroes of 2014: Rihanna, Solange, Farrell Williams, Rita Oroy and Kanye West. Meanwhile, Beyoncé announces a collaboration with Topshop, and Lady Gaga advertises H & M and Versace. Kendell Jenner completes all this whirlwind - the most popular model of the year, which fashion houses from Marc Jacobs to Estée Lauder are bombarded with offers to become their face.
2
The diagnosis of the year: fashion for all
The dictatorship of fashion has fallen. The industry functions for everyone. It doesn't matter if you are a man, a woman or a transgender, how old are you, what is your figure, what country do you live in? In the fashion at the same time can be closed skirts to the floor and mini, blousons and things in obtyag, wide trousers and narrow. The only thing that has the same strong influence on fashion (following pop culture and stars) is the interests of buyers: comfort, a healthy lifestyle and sport, functionality (and therefore benefits) and sex. Hence the acute demand for knitwear, post-training and outdoor styles, as well as a return to the fashion of sexuality.
At the same time, consumers have become more pragmatic. Original and non-commercial brands like Medham Kirchhoff are getting harder. So, Medham Kirchhoff recently canceled its autumn-winter show, but we hope that the designers will continue to work. This story also confirms that the masses are still wary of the new, take the unusual with everything and demand understandable pop culture. However, not everything is so bad: the younger generation of consumers is visually more developed and adapts to everything new faster than their predecessors, this generation must both generate and support new heroes.
3
Landmark of the year: ordinary people
Street castings of shows, where the brands are called fans and friends, the participation of ordinary people in advertising campaigns, the emergence of normal and health-ready - in 2014, the fashion world finally accepted us for who we are. Stamps draw inspiration on the streets, as well as in Instagram accounts of real people who come up with fashion themselves. This year, Marc by Marc Jacobs found faces for a new campaign on Instagram and Twitter using the hashtag #CastMeMarc, and brands like Calvin Klein and Equipment shot models as realistic as possible with a mobile phone camera. In parallel with this, the industry, responding to consumer demand, has taken a course on pragmatism, and this trend will gain momentum in the near future.
4
Mass Market of the Year: Monki
This year, the democratic Swedish brand Monki entered the Russian market, opening five stores in the country during the year. Monki is part of the H & M Group along with COS, Cheap Monday and & Other Stories. Mark is distinguished by minimalism and a sense of humor, as well as regular collaborations with Scandinavian designers. We hope that despite the crisis, the brand will not leave the Russian market.
5
Return of the Year: John Galliano
The world has been closely following John Galliano’s career since the designer left Dior’s home in 2012. A year ago, we wrote about his appointment to Oscar de la Rente. In 2014, Galliano is again in the spotlight. At first, the designer surprised everyone by becoming the creative director of the Russian network L'Etoile. And then, 53-year-old Galliano, at first glance, far from the intellectual fashion, was appointed the new creative director of all the lines of Maison Martin Margiela. We will see the first results of his work in January, during the High Fashion Week. It is noteworthy that the show will take place in his native London for Galliano, and not in Paris.
6
Script Impressions: Protest
2014 was generous with protests in the world — from Ukraine to Hong Kong. This could not but affect the fashion shows that reacted to the Zeitgayst. The british were the brightest of all. So, Ashish Gupta drew attention to the problem of patients with vitiligo - one of the most complex and little-studied skin diseases associated with impaired pigmentation. In the last show, Ashish participated American model Chantelle Brown-Young, suffering from vitiligo. Edward Midham and Benjamin Kirchhoff held a show under the slogan "Reject everything!" and demonstrated an absolutely anarchic collection. The topic did not bypass Karl Lagerfeld. The Chanel show was held in the form of a demonstration: models led by an armed megaphone Karla Delevingne carried placards with slogans devoted to freedom and equality, pereinachnymi in a fashionable manner: "Engage in fashion, not war", "Feministe Mais Feminine", "Women, go ahead! ". And to show that feminism concerns not only women, a young man came out on the podium with a poster "He For She".
7
Country of the year: Russia
In a natural way, politics sparked interest in culture and life in Russia, and Russian fashion became one of the subjects of close attention from the West. Young and progressive representatives of the new wave of Russian brands got under the sights of the press. First, The Guardian wrote about them, then Fashionista and Paper, and now Dazed & Confused was pulled. We really have something to be proud of.
So, Gosh Rubchinsky this year made the first show in the framework of the Paris Fashion Week. Tigran Avetisyan and Dasha Selyanova, designer of the ZDDZ brand with Petersburg roots, participated in Fashion Week in New York at the VFILES show. In addition, this year the Russian landing party visited Milan for the first time at the Pitti Super trade show, and now they are waiting for them at the Pitti Uomo in Florence in January 2015. Andrey Artyomov and Maria Stern are practically side-by-side doing their show rooms during Paris Fashion Week. About Zhenyu Kim writes Vogue Italia. Olya Shurygin, designer of the brand Cap America, this year is taking an internship at Ermanno Scervino and presents the brand in London at the Young Creative Entrepreneur competition.
From the work of the designer LES 'Lesia Paramonova Asian bloggers go crazy, and Lesya collaborates with an artist from Taiwan. New democratic brands are being formed in St. Petersburg: Corporelle makes decent underwear, and SHLZ - denim. We have the strongest Omsk design school with its graduates in the person of Anton Galetsky and REVERZ, there is a promising Aurora Fashion Week. What is lacking is support and internal resources in the state: seamstresses, fabrics and high-quality accessories. So win!
8
Rebranding of the Year: Loewe, Marc by Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton
Three houses immediately attracted attention in 2014 with the arrival of new creative directors. The first and most significant is Nicolas Ghesquière in Louis Vuitton. Nicolas was the first to set the main trend of 2015 - the return of fashion at the junction of the 60s and 70s: the brand showed mini-dresses with zippers, trapezium skirts, ski sweaters, high-waisted tight pants and boots. In doing so, Geskyer groped and showed a balance between feminine commercial fashion and intellectual.
New life was breathed in Marc by Marc Jacobs. Progressive Englishwomen Katie Hillier and Luell Bartley were in charge of the changes. The brand is now well known as MBMJ, and two collections of girls are inspired by subcultural, street fashion and British underground. In their work on prints, the girls collaborated with Fergus Purcell, a graphic designer for the street brand Palace.
The last significant rebranding is the oldest Spanish brand Loewe, where the British genius Jonathan Anderson is now working. It seems now the question of where to look for concise accessories and bags, has disappeared by itself. Loewe offer some of the best: Anderson demonstrates first-class work with the most complex natural materials, including clothing, where the femininity of things borders on their sculptural complex cut.
9
Losses of the year: Oscar de la Renta and Professor Louise Wilson
This year, Englishwoman Louise Wilson, professor and principal person at the magistracy at London's St. Martins College, died, without whom Alexander McQueen, Phoebe Faylo, Christopher Caine, Stella McCartney and many other British designers would not have been able. Over the past years, Louise struggled with breast cancer, but lost. Another loss of this year was symbolic - the death of one of the main American designers Oscar de la Renta, who wore the wives of American presidents and billionaires. With his departure from life, it seems, the beautiful era of glamor ended.
10
Revival of the year: couture houses
Right now we are witnessing an amazing and rare period of the revival of several forgotten couture houses at once. Schiaparelli was the first to reanimate, for which Marco Dzanini showed two surreal collections. He succeeded extravagant dresses with squirrels, incredible tuxedos, coats with bulky fur sleeves and other amazing things. However, after two collections, Dzanin left the house and Schiaparelli is looking for a new creative director, whose place is predicted by the duet Medham Kirchhoff. In addition, two more houses this year announced their return: first Charles James, and then Paul Poiret was put up for auction. We will see in the near future how far this laborious activity will be promising and how these houses will return.
11
The trend of the year: 2000s
2014 was the year of returns: tights, boots, leggings, mom-jeans returned to fashion. Designers and stylists began to take inspiration in the 2000s - the era of vulgarity and artificial beauty - and will look back on this period for some time. So, now you can see in the shootings and on the catwalks curl-boucle, contour pencil on the lips, tanned cheeks, stripper shoes and sexy dresses. Fashion houses from Miu Miu to Marc Jacobs are already actively using elements of the 2000s, albeit for fun. Of course, in Russia for now it all looks weird, but this only proves that self-irony needs to be brought up in itself. Jeremy Scott showed himself to be the brightest of all here, showing a pink from head to toe collection inspired by Barbie, the toy benchmark of non-existent feminine beauty.
12
Hope of the Year: Thomas Tate and Shane Oliver
This year, the prestigious LVMH Prize competition was won by Canadian Thomas Tate, a graduate of the master's degree course, Louise Wilson, in London's Central Saint Martins. Thomas is a workaholic and is ready not to sleep and not to eat, to keep his name brand afloat. It is noteworthy that the latest collection of Tate dedicated sexuality, which recognizes for itself a new territory. Secondary LVMH Prize awarded Hood By Air. This is not surprising: a year ago, hip-hop and sports were recognized as dominant trends affecting modern fashion and style.
During the fall of 2014 alone, the designer of Hood By Air, Shane Oliver, arranged three shows: two in New York and one in Paris - which other brands do not allow themselves, and his things have already begun to be forged. Next year, Shane will be traveling as a special guest at the Pitti Uomo men's fashion show in Florence, where we hope he will be driven by an old-fashioned crowd of guys in twains and brogs. The victory of these two designers at the LVMH Prize says that the luxury conglomerate has a look at them. Recall: a year ago, LVMH bought a share in the stamps of Jonathan Anderson, thus investing in one of the most non-commercial designers and donating the old Spanish brand Loewe.
