What to wear in winter: Stylist tips
WE DISPOSED STYLISTS WHAT TRENDS WILL BE ACTUALLY next winter and how to adapt them to the Russian climate, what seasonal things to pay attention to and what should be guided by when choosing clothes. Advice from our experts will help you understand in what things it is rational to invest in and how to combine existing wardrobe items.
The most pressing question is of course outerwear. And the main trend here - faux fur, which glorifies Gisele Bundchen from the cover of French Vogue. Even Chloe Mendel has released a "synthetic" winter collection, not to mention Gucci. Embroidered pineapples on the back, dyed lettering, colored sleeves are all very fun, but, objectively, it's cold. I am ready to suffer only for the sake of one microtrend - faux fur under my beloved teddy bear. Dries Van Noten here, as usual, won all. The second noticeable, but not very practical trend is patent leather. All probably saw a lot of shiny black coats and sheepskin coats with fur-trimmed sleeves, like those of Attico and Proenza Schouler. But, according to those who have tested such things in the cold, the material will crack.
I adore KHAITE minimalists, which are sold in one of my favorite stores, The Line (check their instagram). The brand offers beautiful woolen trouser suits with wide lapels and the most comfortable bodysuits in the world with deep but elegant cutouts. In Russia, he is in the TSUM. But the main thing in fashion is to catch the direction, because such things can be found in democratic brands.
I myself will not go out without a wool blend body, cashmere scarf and gloves, regardless of the chosen image. And I wrap my head with a scarf like the ladies wearing a headscarf, now it is combined with classic clothing and oversized down jacket, without which there is no life for the second season.
Usually, trends are set for two seasons: the main ones are autumn-winter and spring-summer. Accordingly, the same tendencies, which we talked about in the context of autumn, are applicable to the cold season. Down-padded jackets are the most up-to-date: you can’t call them fashion revelations, but they are still popular. I advise universal models that can be worn with jeans and winter boots, as well as with something elegant. Style - not fitted, cut - straight, length - to choose from. It is better to choose a base color, especially if we are talking about models from the mass market: gold and metallic blue look great in the picture, but things can be very cheap in life.
Another trend that can be safely applied to the realities of our winter is trekking boots and shoes, stylized for them. It is better to choose models of leather, not suede, and be sure to process it with protective agents. You can wear these not only with a down jacket or a park, but also with a coat and a fur coat. By the way, about fur coats: this season the coolest ones that resemble the mantles of rich Italian old women - from the so-called status fur (or its imitation), midi length, with wide lapels.
Any trend can be adapted to certain weather conditions. The only thing I do not advise in winter is to get involved in boots and socks made of thin leather or neoprene (hello, Balenciaga) and high heels: first, there is a risk of freezing your toes, and second, just watch a selection of videos like girls in high heels trying to cope with ice.
In winter, I do not do without warm sweaters (my favorite is cashmere from Zara, which is already five years old, while it looks like new), a boot like an army high-topped boot (and warm socks under them), and a hooded down jacket (salvation for those who hates hats) and mom jeans or straight cut (unlike narrow models, they do not interfere with blood circulation, therefore it is warmer in them).
In our harsh climate, the main thing is not to die from the cold. Volumetric, multi-colored, gold, lacquered - the most different down jackets are with us again (for example, in Fenty x Puma, Versace, Tod's). They are combined not only with sporting things, but with practically all things, if only it was chosen successfully. My favorite is a long down jacket-fuchsia-colored tent from the Ashish x River Island collaboration: in this you can go for a walk or to work - attention is guaranteed. There were also many quilted down-padded blankets on the podium (Sonia Rykiel, Junya Watanabe, Mulberry).
I can not imagine the winter without a fur coat, especially now you can find a model for every taste. I will highlight two trends: bright color variations (Fendi, Miu Miu, Prada) and vintage fur (Louis Vuitton, Dries Van Noten). All, of course, artificial, models of natural material now often look inconsistent (especially from specialty stores). I love color fur: bright red, yellow, blue. The combination of bright things uplifting, especially against the background of people in black clothes. Take a closer look at fur accessories: hats and boots, as in the Miu Miu show, or bags like those of Nina Ricci. The mass market is also full of such accessories (for example, you can find a fluffy red bag in Monki). Sheepskin coats are another good option for our winter. The most beautiful ones are at the Coach 1941 fashion show. The model that is ideal for me is a short, beige color, with a sheep fur trim.
It is practical to wear cozy knitwear in winter. Now there are a lot of Orversize models in stores that I don’t want to get out of; we have the main brand for such Mirstores sweaters. Victorian stand-up blouses will replace shirts with voluminous sleeves and voluminous sleeves. Examples can be seen at Kenzo and N ° 21 shows. The trend for silver, as in the images of Chanel and Comme des Garçons, will approach the oncoming corporate parties and other parties: sparkling dresses will soon be in all stores.
Let's talk about less practical trends - for example, plastic. Does everyone remember the yellow Calvin Klein fur coat with a polyethylene trench coat? Sign thing, caught in a lot of shooting and covers. Poorly imagine how to walk in such a dress in minus ten. And, say, feathers, like those of Sonia Rykiel and Balenciaga, are suitable only for evening exits. Jackets of them may be more or less warm, but sleet will easily ruin the thing. Tights in the net - it is very beautiful and sexy, but in our realities they can be put on only in summer and early autumn.
For me, winter is the most unloved time of the year: I am constantly freezing and try not to go outside unless absolutely necessary. So, I can not do without a fur coat: I have five artificial ones (bright yellow, white, multi-colored with stripes, black and white and green), one pale pink of feathers and one of the fox fur for the very cold. The newest one is by Russian designer Alisa Kuzembaeva: made of faux fur, bottle-green, on the floor, with a long belt and volume pockets below. But there is no single down jacket, despite all their popularity: sporty style and oversight is not mine at all.
I would highlight the following trends. First, sheepskin - we carry everything from this material: from oversize gloves, Saint Laurent sleeves and short jackets to full sheepskin coats - Proenza Schouler, Louis Vuitton, Yeezy, Isabel Marant, Marc Jacobs. Pay attention to the "Norwegian" jacquard sweaters and their motifs (Loewe and Louis Vuitton). One of the favorite trends - "vintage" fur coats, like J.W.Anderson, Loewe, Yeezy, Céline, Vetements. The ideal length is up to the middle of the calf or almost ankle-deep. Retro hats are in use - for example, like Marni and Miu Miu: sometimes you can please yourself or others with a slightly wacky, but at the same time quite attractive look. It all depends on the filing.
Fur coats or coats this winter should be tied up with a belt (examples are from Miu Miu, Louis Vuitton, Prada). As before, down jackets are in service - it is unlikely to be able to do without them in winter; I want to mention the black straight Haider Ackermann and the protective green Balenciaga. You can stylize these things with cowboy boots with a blunt nose (like in Louis Vuitton and Calvin Klein) or sharp-toed booties Céline, Balenciaga, Loewe. And under fur coats and sheepskin coats you can wear free-cut trouser suits. I wouldn’t advise you to wear a leather-onion in the winter - it’s beautiful, but it’s going to be unbearably cold. Be careful in this weather is to be with ultra-short skirts that overlap short coats or long jackets.
I wear a Forget Me Not mohair winter helmet. Beautiful, functional and absolutely universal thing that looks great with any outerwear. Model supercomfortable and warm, I have it in two versions, and I look forward to another one. I wear from October to early April, until it becomes warm.
Winter this year makes me happy not only because, according to meteorological forecasts, it will be warm, but also because my favorite trend for exaggerated and quilted things is relevant again. A lot of options: starting with puffs and blankets and ending with inflated scarves - of course, you should not put on everything at once, but you can purchase a couple of quilted models. Nowadays there are no down jackets: from modern technological and water-repellent materials, from leather and even from velvet.
Jackets in the usual sense of the word can be found in Marques'Almeida - only with a pin instead of a buckle. Anoraks moved from the autumn wardrobe to the winter, only for fluff, like in Napa by Martine Rose. If the down jacket is not about you at all, you can get by with a similar vest, an inflated scarf, similar to a collar cut from the down jacket, or at least inflated mittens. Or wear a quilted padded jacket under a coat like the one that Rodolfo Palliungo showed in the latest collection for Jil Sander. There are comfortable t-shirts, there are practical sweaters and turtlenecks that meet the same conditions: warm and soft. One of the most interesting sweaters, in my opinion, is at Helmut Lang - asymmetrical and "torn".
An backpack will become an indispensable accessory for winter - it can be roomy models of leather or canvas, which from season to season show Off-White and Rick Owens, or more elegant models on thin straps, like those of Mansur Gavriel or J.W.Anderson. Of all the designers presented, the marching backpack, created in the framework of the Vetements and Eastpak collaboration, stands out brightly — yellow, red and black. This is literally a “two in one” thing: the outer pocket is detachable and turns into a comfortable bag with a belt.
Frosts in coarse boots on thick, corrugated soles are not terrible - for example, classic Roa hikers, in which you can fearlessly walk on the ice. This Italian brand has finally consolidated its position in the row of trendy brands after collaboration with Alyx. And from Fenty Puma by Rihanna creepers in winter you can change into hybrid snickers. No one, of course, has not canceled sneakers from tech materials, like Gore-Tex. The best models are in the adidas Consortium releases.
Sheepskin coats (including oversized models with sheep wool collars), straight cut coats, colored fur, and fur sleeves will be relevant this winter. Examples can be found in Balenciaga, Max Mara, Off-White, Céline, Miu Miu. Of course, fur is beautiful, but the main thing is that it is artificial. The colors are completely different: bright - for example, blue and red (total onions, by the way, are still in fashion), and classic ones - black, white and beige.
Of course, knitwear will be relevant, which was very much on the runways. These are sweaters with a wide neck, long sleeves, large knit and completely different colors. Especially beautiful look deep shades of blue, red, green and patterns, for example, like Prada. If we talk about elegant things, then I would have highlighted the lace - a vivid example of a dress with such detail in Off-White. A good option for the New Year.
A rather strange trend for winter is lowered boots. I think they look beautiful with dresses, but do not go to outerwear. But what exactly you need in the cold season is a sweater and a scarf. I like the models from the Spanish brand Paloma Wool, as well as the interesting finds of Strogo Vintage, the sweaters of the Russian brands I AM Studio and Mirstores.
I am one of those people who are always cold, so trends for bare knees are not mine. There is a set of things for the winter, which has been checked by me for years and which I have not changed: they are black skinny jeans and sweaters, and on top is any warm outerwear. This season, for example, has a very large selection of down jackets, with brands in different price segments: you can find red lacquered in H & M, and yellow in Mango. The trend on them was set by Balenciaga. It seems to me that in a fierce cold a great cool down jacket will not hurt anyone. Another trend worth highlighting is artificial fur, or so-called teddy. Moreover, synthetic fur is even warmer than natural.
Now everyone is crazy about turtlenecks - they are worn with skirts, blue classic jeans, as well as wide and short models. I personally prefer sweaters made from natural materials - wool, cashmere - because synthetic ones are literally killed in two or three washes. Another love of fashionistas is costumes: as plain (blue models look interesting) and in a cage.
Illustration: Dasha Chertanova Photo:Mango, KM20, La Garconne, Napa by Martine Rose, Helmut Lang