Things from suede in spring-summer collections
IN A CONSTANT WONDERZINE HEAD talks about trends from the podium that can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue we understand how today brands from Calvin Klein to Alexander Wang reinterpret such old-fashioned material as suede.
How it all began
Suede is a thin, velvety skin, which is obtained by soft manufacture and produced by the method of fat tanning. Suede natural, soft, breathable, protects against moisture and retains its properties even after washing in water. In addition, this material is wear-resistant: having found the suede jacket of the parents, you can be sure that it will survive more than one generation. At the beginning of the 20th century, men will be the first to appreciate the functionality and beauty of suede, including the Clarks deserts made of the best Italian suede, tweed jackets with suede elbow patches, suede bomber jackets and riders jackets in their wardrobe. In the mid-1950s, Carl Perkins’s rockabilly single, "Blue Suede Shoes", is released in America, the name of which exactly defines what young people used to go. Reputable ladies at the same time order accessories from colored suede in American studios: berets, scarves, gloves, bags, shoes, collars, as well as uncomplicated clothes like tops.
In the 60s, suede is worn less, rather preferring classic leather jackets and all sorts of casual clothes made from “innovative” synthetics like elastane. No wonder that by the 70th everything natural and festival, close to hippie aesthetics, will return to fashion: wooden-heeled shoes, wicker bags, knitted clothes, fur jackets with fringe, linen dresses and a wide variety of suede things. Suede boots, hats, fringed jackets, vests, skirts and A-silhouette dresses are worn by Veruska, Betty Katra, Liza Minelli, and girls imitate them.
Skirts and sheepskin coats sewn from pieces of multi-colored suede (resembling patchwork), which are extremely functional, are especially popular: the thing that was damaged during the fan cluster in honor of the arrival of The Beatles could be restored by replacing the damaged piece of suede with a new one. Such things can still be found somewhere on the ruins of the Camden Market in London. American designer and close friend of Andy Warhol Halston, who wore Liza Minnelli and Bianca Jagger at the time, was one of the first to respond to the demand for suede, showing a 70th commercially successful collection of artificial "ultra micromosel". In the 80s and 90s, suede is still in fashion: suede bombers are in high esteem among newly-minted businessmen, and among grunge top models there are leather jackets and fringe shorts.
How to wear suede clothes now
For the past five years, the brands have been actively working with leather, offering dresses, skirts, pants in both color and classic black leather for the summer. While we were getting used to it, the designers switched to the recently forgotten material - suede. Topshop Unique a good half of the spring-summer collection sewn from colored suede: tops, wide trousers, coats, skirts, jackets in bright green and purple are paired with light summer things with psychedelic prints. Jack McCullough and Lazaro Hernandez this season for Proenza Schouler show midi-length dresses and cropped trousers of brick-red suede, decorate suede jackets and coats, and sew suede tops. Francisco Costa for Calvin Klein shows low-waist suede skirts, suede dresses, crop tops and wide leg pants in a variety of colors. Jason Wu includes narrow suede dresses, skirts, and beige-colored coats in the collection. Sportmax also has milky and pink suede coats and dresses with suede inserts.
Suede coming in the fall is also a lot. Louis Vuitton Ghesquière shows off A-line quilted skirts using classic brown and beige suede as well as color. Alexander Wang in the autumn collection combines suede with leather, knitted knitwear, including suede boxy-coat and jackets with colored astrakhan collars. Olsen sisters, THE ROW brand designers have suede coats. Jonathan Saunders blends suede coats and cropped jackets with silk bermuda shorts, sheer shirts and sandals.
In 2015, things made of suede can not be avoided: they are found again in Ghesquière (suede skirts look exactly like in the 70s), in 3.1 Phillip Lim - things from classic brick-orange suede, decorated with perforations, in Derek Lam - Neon colored suede clothing Ennio Capas for Costume National creates skirts, vests and jackets made of blue suede with fringe. Miu Miu has colored suede A-line mini-dresses, decorated with stones.
BEWARE!
Connoisseurs of vintage and flea market can with a clear conscience get from the bins suede brown jackets and leather jackets with fringe. They wear the time. Moreover, in relation to animals, vintage suede things are much friendlier than new ones. If you still watch out for the title of queen of a vintage party, limit yourself to accessories, such as suede slippers or blofters. To avoid old-fashioned, keep a balance - choose from suede modern things: crop top, pencil skirt with a low waist, wide trousers, boxy jacket with patch pockets.
Photo: Sipa Press / Fotodom (3), Getty Images / Fotobank (1)