London Fashion Week: the sixth day. Men's shows

Topman design

The Topman Design show is the most awaited for us. If only because some of these things will get to Russia sooner or later (which, for example, did not happen to the impressive part of the Burberry Prorsum shoe segment). And in general, about the phenomenon of a democratic English brand, almost solely speaking in opposition to the prêt-a-porter world, it’s time to write textbooks. The early, as a school lesson, show was held in almost the same student silence, which at the end of the seven-minute show was interrupted by quiet, but prolonged applause. After the summer men's shows in Milan and Paris, it was not necessary to count on the revelations: the shorts still hold the podium, and when the warm season comes, they will have to flood the streets. But instead of the extremely short length, which Gucci and Walter Van Beirendonck have imposed with all their might, the Topman team offers pleasing-looking models with a high waist, always on a belt.

Christopher Shannon and J.W. Anderson

^{1-5. Christopher Shannon 6-9. J.W. Anderson}

Christopher Shannon and J.W. Anderson made a joint show this time. Of course, for the time being, little-known Shannon and Anderson really need to stick together - by sharing audiences, everyone can expand their own. But none of the designers have yet acquired their own special author's style, everyone revels in the recognition that has fallen over his head (recognition here means the fact that the show took place, viewers were present and so on) and attacks viewers with outfits with a high concentration of expression and its own teenage and designer maximalism. Do not misunderstand us: we love tucked pants, geometric prints, a variety of textures - but this is nothing new, nothing that would catch the eye. The worst for an independent designer unit should be the realization that everything turned out very Topman. We hope this awareness of the guys will come sooner or later.

MAN

The MAN show is another brainchild of the omnipresent Topshop (as you can see, there is little that costs him without his direct or indirect participation in London). Beginner designers, who at the time Topshop took under his wing, demonstrate their design innovations here. A few years ago, in practice, everything was not so welcoming: nobody canceled novice designers, but it was not easy to see and appreciate them - the Topman guys deliberately engaged them to see and rate them. To everyone's joy, the latter now have their own shows and no longer terrorize the creative guys from the underground (here we’re not joking: you don’t believe it - take a look at Oxford Street, at the flagship store Topshop). Creative guys, in turn, are in shock: here you’ll have a baby backpack, candy colors of a fur coat made of gloves, an unobtrusive theatrical performance at the beginning of the show, and even a vinyl costume for Ali Ji.

James long

If it seemed to you that we didn’t like anything at all, then we are in a hurry to dissuade: in the few days that have passed since the show, we have become attached to the collection of James Long. It seems that James did not just decide to dress up a male audience - he seemed to have taken on the traveler's outfit: inconspicuous but beautifully mixed colors, understandable forms, layering, sturdy leather, and cozy knitwear. The designer, answering the question about what inspired him while working on the spring line, first of all calls the film “My Personal Idaho State”. Yeah, the first impression did not let us down: this story is really about travel.

All shows are London Fashion Week.