Unusual jeans in new collections
Every week we talk about the trends from the podium, which can be adapted for your wardrobe for the next six months. In this issue, we understand how and why designers began to experiment with classic denim, turning it into art-farce-things that can be found in the collections of even such conservative brands like Max Mara and Valentino. Not to mention the traditional brands for the segment like J Brand and Levi's.
How it all began
Blue jeans are a classic that became the subject of absolute national wealth by the 20th century: first for workers, especially in the post-war period, when modest fabric allowed to create functional things, then dissatisfied youth of the late 50s, remember James Dean in blue jeans in "Rebel without an ideal" or the heroes of the movie "Outcasts". It seems that experiments with denim began to occur absolutely at the same time as experiments with music. Rock-n-roll, a rebellious generation (Rebel Youth) appeared and acid poured into the denim and riveted, which by the time of the 70s counterculture and the punks had reached their apogee. Denim is so unassuming, convenient and practical material that, it seems, it was created to experiment with it: to tear it, whitewash, wear it, crumbled it. Someone took to wash jeans with acid (in pursuit of "marble" and worn jeans), someone - to cut. That's when customization (clothing alteration) originated. At the same time, the film "Five Easy Pieces" is being released with Jack Nicholson, who wears faded jeans, heat and oil and mud. In the late 70s, the Italian brand Diesel appears, the Studio 54 Studio in New York launches a jeans line, and double-denim (when you are dressed in jeans from head to toe) becomes the norm and does not look more like an enterprising farmer's uniform. The former classic denim goes into the background until the release of the series "Beverly Hills, 90210" about rich teens in old-fashioned classic jeans. A pop culture also contributes to the emergence of a new look at denim: we see TLC in wide torn jeans - just like in the modern Ashish collection.
How to wear an unusual jeans now
Not for the first and not for the last time designers are addicted to mixing expensive and cheap materials and manipulating meanings - when high fashion meets the mass. Denim is close and understandable to a huge number of people, so its appearance on the podiums is reasonable. So, denim skirt can easily appear in the collection next to the evening dresses in the floor, like Valentino. Or, say, a jacket or a dress from a denim of complex processing - in the collections of classical brands: Max Mara, Barbara Bui. The latter and this season at all built a collection around just crazy denim. Denim appears in a woven form, cut into cubes, sewn from patches. Denim patchwork is in the collection of the Japanese Junya Watanabe. Marques'Almeida dog eaten on jeans with raw edges. Kenzo embroidery and prints on denim. The Topshop Unique collection has wide, low-waisted jeans that directly refer to the 90s. Make fun of a denim master Ashish, who almost every season either tears, stitches different pieces, then sews applications or puts glitter on the entire surface of jeans. We are already dreaming about ripped jeans with an appliqué "Vogue" from the autumn collection. DKNY works with the aesthetics of the 90s and sews applications (we will not argue, such jeans can be made independently). And, of course, Nicola Formichetti for Diesel is experimenting with denim on the verge of kitsch. And the American 3.1 Phillip Lim, meanwhile, is launching a separate denim capsule collection.
BEWARE
Things from an unusual denim are in themselves a strong accent, so you need to wear them very carefully. The most successful option - with simple and concise clothing, the best single-color. For example, for wild jeans, the best friend is a plain blank T-shirt, which you can somehow pin up with pins, turn it into a crop top, or leave it as it is. The other extreme is to go crazy thoroughly and combine fancy denim with no less fancy clothes. You can experiment with similar or contrasting texture to the fabric: combine the raw edges of the denim with other cropped clothes or wear denim with things in a linen style - transparent and silk pajamas (as shown by Marques'Almeida).
Photo: Sipa Press / Fotodom (2); Getty Images / Fotobank (1)