Fan classics: Murch as a trend for all times
We tell about the trends from the podiumthat can be adapted for your wardrobe in the next six months. Over the past five years, fan paraphernalia has lost the status of things for "initiates" and has become part of the mainstream: Slayer or Black Flag T-shirts are sold today at any mass market store. In 2017, T-shirts and sweatshirts with logos, names and photos of performers are no longer just a tribute to musical culture, but also part of the inevitable commercialization of creativity. At the same time, famous modern artists and designers of all stripes continue to work with merch. We tell how it happened.
How it all began
Merch, as we know it today, shot in the distant 60s: then many dreamed of carrying an artifact from their favorite rock star to a concert in order to feel their involvement in the event. A simple T-shirt with a logo or a group image turned out to be such a memorable souvenir - it was then that they began to be mass produced around the world. Music managers were happy to take advantage of the situation: as noted by Australian music journalist Glen Baker, AC / DC organized their first world tour in such a way as to earn more on souvenirs than on ticket sales.
In the 70s, musical merchandise became much more thoughtful: free-spirited musicians began working with fashionable artists and together they managed to make bold statements for that conservative time. For example, the cover of the Rolling Stones' "Sticky Fingers" album, which Andy Warhol decorated with the image of a male groin in jeans, was considered outrageously obscene - so anyone wearing a t-shirt with her print would effortlessly protest.
Today merch is of two kinds: official and not so. The first is produced by an artist or his label and is dedicated to an album or tour; it can only be bought at a concert or in the official online store of the artist, if you are lucky, of course. The second type, or "near-official", is the stuff of the brands that they managed to sign with the group or the contractor. Often, the visual part is greatly reworked by the designers of the brand, so that even the logo can take on new shapes. H & M produces Metallica logo T-shirts, Zara uses the Rolling Stones brand drawings, and on ASOS you can find the classic Joy Division fan T-shirts black, with the cover of the album Unknown Pleasures.
Other things are simply inspired by the aesthetic of merchandise and successfully mimic fan trappings using typical fonts and designs. This is the most "safe" option: even if you are not interested in music at all, such a T-shirt will not cause any questions. There is also counterfeit merch that can be found on AliExpress. Why you shouldn’t buy it, we hope you don’t have to explain - although many groups, they say, do not mind.
Slogans, logos, portraits of groups and fan symbolism appeared in the mass fashion suddenly. Brand designers began to borrow the aesthetics of subcultures, not understanding it too much, and celebrities were happy to pose in such models on instagram. Naturally, many began to buy merch, not to show their affiliation to a particular subculture or to pay homage to their favorite group, but simply because they like it externally. Loyal fans often get offended by such a superficial attitude - they feel that their experience is devalued. But those who are not aware of the details of the origin of a particular thing may find themselves trapped in their choice: not knowing why this or that group is agitating, you can inadvertently subscribe to statements that contradict your views.
How merch has returned to fashion
The gothic and aesthetics of heavy metal bands have become fundamental for merchandising things that can be found in any shopping center. Designers choose the logos of groups like Metallica and Iron Maiden to fit their “alternate” style into their own brand context.
This was the way Balenciaga did back in 2012, showing a voluminous sweatshirt resembling merch, combined with wide trousers, large earrings and ankle boots. These sweatshirts became real brand hits, and it was possible to see them at fashion weeks at every second. Flirts with the aesthetics of fan things and Demna Gvasalia. In 2016, Vetements presented a long sweatshirt in a variety of layers of knitted items - and the sportswear style was diluted with patent leather boots. In the same year, Supreme created a collection in conjunction with Black Sabbath as part of their world tour: T-shirts, sweatshirts and a hockey jacket decorated images from the band's debut album, photographs of Ozzy Osborne and inscriptions in gothic style. This story best illustrates the commonality of music: it turned out that among the rappers there are many fans of Black Sabbath.
And although rock musicians always get due attention, hip-hop and rap artists have become the main ideologists of merch today. They use the Gothic style, the logo of various groups, and heavy metal motifs in their design. And not by chance - for example, Kanye West's song "New Slaves" eloquently characterizes the merchandise pattern with the skeleton wrapped in the flag of the Confederation. Other details of the illustrations for the 2013 album “Yeezus” - sharpened letters and roses - are particularly symbolic in the context of the songs. One of the most notable merchandise with Rihanna. She wears things of her own design in everyday life: T-shirts with photos of the singer, camouflage pants, parks with inscriptions in honor of the last tour "Anti Tour". Everything can be bought outside the concerts in the online store.
The scandal in the world of mercha is a common thing. Marilyn Manson will use her face for Justin Bieber's T-shirt (sold at Barneys for $ 195), which will cause confusion among her fans, Kylie and Kendall Jenner will release T-shirts with a selfie against Tupac Shakur, Jim Morrison and Biggie, insulting their memory and getting subpoenas. But the biggest cultural question is whether it is ethical to buy brand merchandise like Madeworn, which makes T-shirts for the bands Guns N 'Roses and Ramones for big money. Opponents speak on the pages of music publications, emphasizing the fact that such brands encourage attempts to seem "impudent", not much delving into the essence.
What to wear
What does a standard set of merchandise look like? Hoodie, t-shirts and caps. These are comfortable and versatile models that can be worn with anything. Hoodie - with leggings and denim shorts, T-shirts - with palazzo trousers and mini-skirts (huge sizes - without everything, like a dress), and caps - almost with evening dress.
Merch allows you to play on contrasts. If your shirt has red or blue details, you can choose a leather skirt of the same colors. Merchka thing will look good and in a restrained manner, for example, with overalls on wide straps, complemented by pointed-toe shoes. Logos are nice and in the near-sports outfits, as in the collection of Kanye West, with knit pants. Well, the classics: a jersey t-shirt and simple jeans are a combination for all times.
Photo: KM20, Zara, H & M, Urban Outfitters, Lady Gaga, Off White
