17 new fashion designers of 2014
FOR A YEAR, WE REGULARLY TOLDabout new remarkable designers - those whose names are increasingly appearing in the press. Now it's time to take stock and take a look at all the characters at once - graduates from Central Saint Martins and Parsons, interns from Proenza Schouler and participants from Fashion East and Hyères to LVMH Prize and ANDAM Awards.
Canadian Thomas Tate is one of the most interesting designers of the new generation, working with minimalism and interpretation of sportswear. In 2010, he is making a debut show of the brand name at London Fashion Week, where, judging by the exclusive coverage of The Business of Fashion online magazine, came the fashion editors Vogue, Vanity Fair and ELLE, who felt great potential. This year, he overtook 11 designers and won the prestigious LVMH Prize contest. Great expectations have been placed on Thomas today.
Beth richards
Nasty swimsuits now - in the afternoon with fire. Beth Richards, on the other hand, makes modern swimsuits of a simple sports cut with a sound approach not only to design, but also to prices. So, the most budget option can cost € 73, and the most expensive - € 190. Who knows, perhaps in the foreseeable future, the Beth Richards brand will become the new American Apparel.
Nasir Mazhar
In a short time, Nazir Mazhard made everyone talk about himself, it seems that all publications - critics argue whether the Nazir brand style will be as influential as the Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger, Calvin Klein and Rick Owens styles. We think so. The logoman offered by Nazir is working for the brand with might and main — young people react to things with Nazir’s logos just like they did to Calvin Klein twenty years ago, feeling themselves part of one movement.
Meat
Girlfriends Bo Claridge and Alice Pelleshi proved that latex and rubber mini dresses can be served and sold as ordinary clothes. They mixed things from brilliant, tight-fitting materials with, yes, the best achievements of Internet culture. This formula attracted Meat Nikola Formichetti: he took the singer Azilia Banks in one of the first bows of the brand for ELLE. After the latex and rubber clothes, Claridge and Pelleshi put Rita Ora, Katy Perry and Lady Gaga on.
M2Malletier
M2Malletier is called a brand that seeks to achieve the level of accessory classics like Hermès. That, apparently, is true. Girlfriends Melissa Lozada and Marcela Velez do not release any clutch-cases made of shiny plastic, but timeless bags of simple architectural forms made of leather of basic colors: scarlet, beige or mint. For their production is responsible for the factory, which is entrusted by the Spaniards Loewe, so there is no doubt about the quality.
Hyon park
Hyun Park precisely feels the latest trends: it creates minimalistic things inspired by sports and activewear in pure bright colors. Hyun sneakers into details, cuts off the soles, and makes welded collars out of welded parts and tongues or decorates their clothes. The designer decorates wide trousers and voluminous coats of architectural cut with neon inserts and sports details that refer to things for sports, asymmetrical dresses and jackets of exaggerated volumes decorate with neon details borrowed from sneakers. His collection borders on sportswear, clearly blurring the boundary between the gym and the street.
Sisters Nikita and Tina Sutradhar, budding designers from India, work with color, shape and a constructively complex cut, combining women's and men's clothing, everyday life and art. The sisters’s duality is also visible in the Miuniku collections: Tina brings femininity - she likes to emphasize the waist, Nikita also distorts the form, bringing things to coarse forms, which in their architecture resemble Balenciaga cut. The sisters manage to combine the minimalism of the cut with excessiveness in color and graphic details.
Louise alsop
Journalists have their eyes on Louisa Alsop, a graduate of the University of Westminster design course, right away after her first collection, in 2013. Critics of the American and Italian and Garage magazine liked the androgynous sports style and the black humor of Alsop: the designer prints on his things prints in the form of nuns and repeating (like satanic laughter) initials LALALALA.
Maria stern
Maria Stern is just 20 years old. She is now studying the history of art at Moscow State University and at the same time she is working on a personal jewelry brand, which she founded a year ago. Pearl jewelery Maria Stern almost immediately noticed her current customers: Natalia Goldenberg, Ksenia Sobchak, Anna Zyurova, Natalia Alaverdyan, Svetlana Bondarchuk. Thanks to the recommendations of Goldenberg on Instagram, Stern's work was seen by the Buyer of Browns in London - and things went uphill.
Grace wales bonner
Grace Wales Bonner is inspired by the works of Phoebe Failo and blaxploitation, a kinozhanrom from the 70s, which is characterized by stories about harsh black guys and their opposition to the world. Taking the unisex fashion of the 70s, Grace creates men's clothes of feminine silhouettes: flowing flares, silk shirts, fitted jackets, wide-brimmed hats, beaded embroidered pants, fitted leather coats, vests and cropped jackets. One of the main things in the designer’s collection was a shortened tweed jacket resembling the canonical Chanel thing.
Wali Mohammed Barrech, a young Danish designer who creates eco-friendly and technological things, and also advocates reasonable consumption and individuality in fashion. Wali mixes outdoor and sports styles (in particular, she interprets rainwear) and unisexuality. The designer works with several companies that produce technology and eco-materials. For example, one of them - the German Sympatex - patented membrane waterproof material, windproof, breathable and also 100% recyclable, from which Vali sews its collections.
SHLZ
The founders of the SHLZ brand, Ekaterina and Sergey Shulzhenko, a young couple from St. Petersburg, sew unisex clothing that is most wearable and available to most: jackets and denim skirts with torn edges, jeans, cotton shirts, neoprene bomber jackets.
Yulia Yefimtchuk +
A young and promising Ukrainian girl, Yulia Efimchuk, conquered the fashion and photography festival in Yera with things with the inscriptions “Labor”, “Peace to the World” and “Every day everything is more joyful to live.” Based on this collection, Efimchuk created her debut perfume. As planned by the Ukrainian, the fragrance should resemble the famous "Red Moscow". The collection of the designer since the fall is sold at Opening Ceremony: at Hyères-2014, she received a grant from the store, which was represented personally by its creators Carol Lim and Umberto Leon.
Ryan lo
Ryan Lo, a twenty-five-year-old native of Hong Kong, calls himself a self-taught designer — he says he learned how to create things on tutorials on YouTube, after which he honed his skills at the London studio of the brand Charles Anastase. Things Ryan Lo can already be bought at the largest online retailer net-a-porter.com, which is a great success for a young brand. However, one should not be surprised - few people will remain indifferent, looking at the kawaii Rayn Lo collections with kilometers of ruches, tons of glitter and total pink of all possible shades.
REVERZ
Young Russian designer Dasha Revers, who launched a clothing brand in Omsk a year ago, creates things of exaggerated volumes: massive warm coats, tailored from materials different in texture, quilted bomber jackets, pajama-cut shirts, transparent pants and jackets, laconic dresses and tops, elastic pants in the style of the 90s. The basis for the designer takes a classic silhouette, adding to it the sports processing of parts.
Phoebe English
Talented Englishwoman Phoebe English - from among graduates of the master's course Central Saint Martins, where one of her teachers was the legendary Louise Wilson. Phoebe English can be called a textile genius. She likes to combine several differently shaped fabrics in one thing and create materials with her own hands, uses the 16th century English weaving technique and leaves the edges of things unprocessed, easily combines transparent organza and decorative knitting, thick flax, thin muslin, worn dense taffeta, mesh and latex.
Founder of the brand of the same name Andrea Jiapei Li, a graduate of the Parsons Masters course recently entered the short-list of the young designers H & M Design Award - 2015. In addition, this year the Andrea collection opened the general display of Parsons MFA alumni at New York Fashion Week and got into the reviews Style.com. The designer showed eight bows with deliberately voluminous things, sewn mainly from neoprene and mesh.