Paris Fashion Week: Balenciaga, Carven, Rick Owens Shows, Nina Ricci, Lanvin
From September 25 to October 3, Spring-Summer Fashion Week takes place in Paris. By tradition, Look At Me talks about the most remarkable PFW shows, demonstrates the mindboards of designers and collects comments from industry professionals. In the review of the third day - the show Balenciaga, Carven and Lanvin.
Balenciaga
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| "I think the work in Balenciaga gave me a secret power," said Nicola Gesquières after the show |
| The background music was the track of the French group Lescop "La Foret" |
| In addition to the expected guest and brand official Kristen Stewart, Azeddin Alaya and Garage Editor-in-Chief Dasha Zhukova were noticed in the first row |
Mudbord
Catholic robe |
Nature and Mythology |
Flamenco dress from the archives of Balenciaga |
What critics think about the Balenciaga collection
Katie Chorin, The new york times
Hesquiere’s desire to preserve traditions at home is perfectly justified, but today's show surprised us with many fresh ideas and solutions.
Nicole Phelps Style.com
In Paris, now only talk that about the upcoming shows of Simons for Dior and Slimane for YSL, but you should not discount Gesquière, who, although he has not yet made a revolution in the house of Balenciaga, still masterfully rethought his legacy
Anna Shulman Vogue uk
It was an awesome collection. This time Gesquière showed us less androgyny and more femininity
Carven
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| Brand Carven occupies a niche between luxury and mass market. All collections are sewn in Hungary, this explains their relative price availability. |
| “While creating the collection, I mentally painted an image of a woman who knows how to stay refined in the most severe conditions,” creative director of the brand Guillaume Henri commented on the show |
Mudbord
Art Nouveau and the architecture of Hector Guimara |
India mid-twentieth century |
African safari |
What critics say about the Carven collection
Women's Wear Daily
Spectacular contour cuts, giving the image a novelty without extra effort, have already become Henri's signature style.
Balmain
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| Last year, the leadership of the house Balmain decided to appoint an unknown twenty-six-year-old assistant Olivier Rustan to the post of creative director |
| The make-up for which the Mac creative team was responsible was as natural as possible. |
| To freshen up the style of the fashion house, Rustan relied on relaxed loose pants (brand DNA were always considered tight pants) |
Mudbord
Cuban tile floor and wicker chairs |
Bikers |
Evangelista, Crawford and Campbell in the early 90s |
What critics say about the Balmain collection
Lisa Armstrong, The daily telegraph
The time of 80s silhouettes has passed. Few guests of the show, dressed in the Balmain collection of past seasons, looked like they came to the concert in memory of Michael Jackson. Even wide trousers with a high waist did not change the overall picture.
Nicole Phelps Style.com
A little less hairstyle and a little more lightness will give a good result next season.
Lanvin
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| “I live among women, I am surrounded by women in my studio. I cannot choose one single idea for the show,” creative director of the house Alber Elbaz commented on his collection. |
| Antique sculptures were installed as decorations for the show above the podium. |
| Jeanne Lanvin started out sewing dresses for her daughter. The fashion house logo is often confused with a lion or a horse, but it is the mother and daughter holding hands. |
Mudbord
Parisian salons of the XIX century |
Ancient Greece and classicism |
Tuxedo Yves Saint Laurent |
What critics say about the Lanvin collection
Sarah Mower, Vogue.com
Alber Elbaz cares about two things more than anything else: the cut of the fabric and the strength of the woman who puts on his dress
Jo-Ann Furniss, Style.com
The perceptible lightness of the collection clearly made it clear that a black bodysuit is worth the wait. Complete with simple black pants, it created one of the most erotic looks.
Nina ricci
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| Briton Peter Copping, who heads the house of Nina Ricci for three years, in the new season continues to rethink the idea of "Parisian chic" |
| For a long time, Copping worked in the Louis Vuitton fashion house and was Mark Jacobs’s “right hand” |
| "This is the other side of the image of the woman Nina Ricci. He became tougher and more aggressive" |
Mudbord
Paris of the 20s and archives at home |
Coquetry and fetishism |
Boudoir |
What critics think about the Nina Ricci collection
Nicole Phelps Style.com
Dominatrix bandages are already a bit cramped and have become something of a fashionable cliche, but it is worth noting that Copping strives to get out of his comfort zone.
Mark Holgate
Copping demonstrates absolute confidence in what he does.
Rick owens
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| The decoration for the show was a foamy waterfall, which the designer himself called "a little hallucinogenic" |
| The mood of the collection was set with pastel shades of pearl, sand and beige colors. |
Mudbord
Austrian artist Gustav Klimt |
Eden Gardens |
Willy Wonka |
What critics think about the Rick Owens collection
Jessica Bumpus, Vogue uk
It was an unexpectedly poetic collection for Rick Owens, because his style has always been distinguished by coarse draperies and raw leather.
Ten fashionista under an umbrella, a Japanese with two scarves and other guests of Paris Fashion Week
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Live broadcast from Paris Fashion Week: Day 3