8 inclusive fashion week shows in New York
Fashion industry in slow but sure steps approaching diversity. And although the lookbooks seem to be familiar already, like the one that released Opening Ceremony with non-professional models, the fashion world has something to strive for. The marathon of shows in New York just ended, which turned out to be remarkable not so much because of the collections, but because of the number of atypical participants. People appeared on the podiums with different health features, external parameters and self-determination. We have selected the eight most notable shows.
Text: Anna Eliseeva
Maryam Nassir Zadeh
Maryam Nassir Zadeh became famous for her eponymous bohemian boutique with clothes of famous brands and a line of minimalist shoes, launched in 2012. Later, Zade began to create her own collections of relaxed clothes, which, however, can hardly be called concise. In spite of rigor, which won the podiums and wardrobe of fashion bloggers, Zade urges women to dress more spontaneously and not be afraid of “forbidden” combinations.
It cannot be said that Maryam Nassir Zadeh shows are very diverse, but non-standard models, including age models, often take part in them. For example, on the last show, fashion designer and artist Susan Saianciolo appeared, who has been collaborating with the designer for more than one season.
Eckhaus Latta
Since the creation of the brand in 2011, Zoe Latta and Mike Eckhouse have not put a clear gender framework in their design. The designers collaborate with a variety of models - both people of conventional appearance and with parameters that are not typical for the industry. For example, the spring-summer show - 2018 was widely discussed due to the appearance of a pregnant model on the podium, and the collector Thea Vestraich Wagner took part in the autumn-winter show of the same year. At the last show, artist Susan Saansiolo and plus-size model Paloma Elsesser appeared.
Deveaux
Deveaux collections are distinguished by a gender-neutral approach. Last February, the creative director of the New York brand, founded by Matthew Brin and Andrea Cao, became the famous street photographer Tommy Ton, who introduced the female line, although the brand had previously positioned itself as "male." Nevertheless, the last Deveaux show proves that the division of clothing into any categories is only a convention. Both women and men of different ages took part in it: for example, the oldest participant was eighty-two years old, Joanie Johnson was sixty-seven, and Maryann Elizabeth was fifty-one years old. They tried on relaxed coats, raincoats, pants, overalls, jackets and much more - all free cut and reserved shades.
Chromat
One of the few brands on fashion weeks, which consistently cooperates with different models - usually non-standard. “Every body is worthy of love and acceptance,” the official website says. According to the founder, Becky McCaren-Tran, the brand seeks to create beachwear that would suit anyone perfectly. Models with different body types, different age and skin color, transgender people, as well as people with health features are participating in Chromat shows. So, once again, blogger Mama Kaks, models Diandra Forrest and Maya Monet took to the podium.
The journalist Man Repeller drew a parallel between the shows of Chromat and Victoria's Secret: according to Harling Ross, the palm leaves attached to the model’s shoulders were sent to the wings of the angels. However, she is confident that it is brands like Chromat that shape the future of the industry. However, there is another explanation for this detail: the brand tends to use recycled materials (in particular, nylon made from fishing nets and plastic bottles), so the topic of the show was sustainable development. This time the brand decided to pay special attention to the pollution of the oceans: the accessories were made from different kinds of garbage like candy wrappers, nets, bags and cans.
Vaquera
In 2013, four designers - Patrick DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee, David Moses and Claire Sally - founded the Vaquera brand, setting a goal to undermine the concept of luxury and bring more variety to the fashion - and it's not just about design. Models of different ages, shape parameters, and growth every season try on deconstructed outfits of the brand - mocking quotes and hyperbolic versions of what others show. The parody model walk on Vaquera shows also became an integral part of the show - the audience remembered, for example, the release of Natsumi Takahashi. The Russian model Dasha Shevik, Coltrane Ferrer, Christian Guzman and others also took part in the show.
Christian siriano
Christian Siriano stands out among his colleagues in the workshop by inviting every season several plus-size models, and sometimes men, who demonstrate traditionally women's clothing. So it was, for example, in the spring-summer show in 2019. Plus-size models such as Precious Lee, Candice Huffin, Markita Pring, Chloe Vero and others took part in the last show. And the designer is constantly working with Ashley Graham, who just closed the last show.
Collina strada
Hillary Teymour founded in 2009 a brand for “independent people who will wear her clothes based on her unique vision”; first of all, she brought fame easily recognizable bags and backpacks. Now the designer is trying to update the work with the help of those who are constantly on the ear, whether it is an aggen fashion or sologamy. The latest collection of Teymur - a kind of repentance to the ecology of the planet. The designer has dedicated her to everything she continues to do in spite of the damage that buying plastic bottles, food delivery, or orders on Amazon. So, all the clothes were made from previously used fabrics, and 4ocean accessories were made from recycled waste. In each show of the brand men take part, as well as non-standard models - of different ages and with various types of figure. At the latter, for example, Janet Mervyn, who worked as a model in the 80s and 90s, was spotted.
Gypsy sport
The American brand Gypsy Sport, founded in 2012, from the very beginning was spectacular in all aspects: clothing design, show organization and selection of models. Designer Rio Uribe creates avant-garde clothing for virtually everyone. On the one hand, it becomes unimportant who shows pajamas with lace, translucent combinations, corsets, tights and bodices made of beads, and on the other, each such exit turns out to be a challenge to the industry.
You may remember Monroe Bergdorf - she became the first transgender model to become a partner with L'Oréal. Erika Hart has already become the star of the catwalk, having survived breast cancer, which at the show completely abandoned her bra, choosing only a skirt with a high neckline. On the show you could see and Maya Monet.
