How are domestic designers sold abroad
Sales is what makes the designer and his ten dresses business, and the game into fashion with shows and shootings turns into a wealthy industry. A few years ago, domestic fashion figures seemed to have forgotten about this, but now they have figured out - many brands now have online stores and showrooms, some have agreed with giants like Aizel, Central Department Store and Podium, while others open monobrand boutiques and pop-ups. If everything is clear with the Russian market, how is it going with the foreign market - it seems desirable and necessary? Last year alone, Comme des Garçons took Gosha Rubchinsky under her wing, Vika Gazinskaya began selling at Net-a-porter.com, and Maria Bech entered the markets of America and Canada. Look At Me understands what is needed for sales abroad and which brands are listed in Luisa Via Roma and Moda Operandi.
Text: Liza Kologreeva
Designers who have decided to bring their brand beyond the borders of the domestic market need to remember once and for all: thousands like them. Even if at the local show you are applauded by the fashion directors of all local gloss, it does not mean that you will be honored with an approval nod from the buyer Barneys or Harrods. “The collection that we could potentially sell should really impress, we should say“ Wow ”at the sight of it, it should stand out, well, the clothes should be beautifully designed,” the fashion director of the store Net-a-porter tells us .com holly rogers. This is not to mention the fact that the quality and well-established work with material suppliers and garment factories for a brand with ambitions is natural. If you are ready to sell abroad, remember a couple of tips. "From a business point of view, you need to divide the markets into two types: those where the designer goes for the image, and those that the designer will earn on the basis of the established image. The European market is more fashionable, so it makes sense to put the brand in several strong accounts , that is, concept stores and department stores, and so create a weight on the market. Then you can move to the money markets, these are Asia, Brazil, India, partly the USA, some CIS countries, ”fashion consultant Ekaterina Petukhova tells us.
Reaching out to buyers and convincing them to purchase a collection is half the battle. What's next? “Before taking any step in terms of international development, it is imperative to understand whether the brand will be able to cope with logistics - from production to customs and delivery - and do it in time,” Petukhova continues. According to her, American buyers will not forgive you for mistakes in quality and logistics. So sensibly assess the forces - maybe in a year your brand will be stronger and more prosperous and will not fall off the hook for sure. Get ready for the fact that Europeans can defer payment or ask for a discount - this is told in detail by the creator of Business of Fashion Imran Amed. Cherished sales in any Corso Como can turn into a nightmare for a brand.
It is worth wondering whether you need to be sold abroad. So, Oksana Lavrentyeva, the founder of RusMod, said in an interview with Afisha magazine: "Russia is a huge market that can consume a lot, and first you need to focus on it. The idea that you need to go to The West, comes solely out of vanity. " You should listen to Lavrentiev’s words: her strongest brand, Alexander Terekhov, is sold literally all over the country, from Kaliningrad to Novosibirsk. “Look, virtually every designer, and a large company that is known today on a global level, starts from its own market. According to formal logic, which our market does not follow, its market is as loyal as possible to its brand and designer,” Petukhova tells us . Conclusion: it is possible that a corner in Yekaterinburg is more important for you than a rail in a department store in Berlin, and you may be more necessary for Yekaterinburg residents than for Berliners. However, Russian and Ukrainian designers are increasingly entering the foreign market - we are reporting on the latest successful cases.
VIKA GAZINSKAYA:
Avenue32.com, Colette.fr, Moda Operandi and Net-a-porter.com
The most eminent of the young Russian designers, Vika Gazinskaya, boasts the most enviable list of points of sale. Her photos spread around the popular street-style blogs, and then French Colette turned her attention to the girl: three years ago, she designed a shop window for the store, and since then he has been selling her collections. "Vika Gazinskaya's aesthetics evolve from season to season. She breaks down barriers, her collections are majestic, and the fabrics are always luxurious," says another retailer of Russian designer, Robert Benteler from Avenue32.com, to The Telegraph. In addition, more recently, the collections of the girls are sold on Net-a-porter.com. "We were big fans of Vicky's avant-garde style, and then we saw her collection, which was balanced on the edge with couture, and were obliged to buy her clothes," says Holly Rogers from Net-a-porter.com. |
Lesya Paramonova:
Asia
Lesya Paramonova won the contest Preview, which was organized by the alternative Moscow week Cycles & Seasons by MasterCard, and began to be sold in Moscow Click-boutique. Recently, the girl has expanded the list of friendly stores: she has created a collection for the store Parisienne, and also put a line of sweatshirts in Aizel. After shooting the Russian designers in the magazine Karin Roytfeld of the CR Fashion Book, her brand LES 'was noticed by an American company engaged in the development of designers, and offered the girl to help with promotion abroad. Now her collections can be found in the UAE and Saudi Arabia. "After the presentation in New York, we decided to hold similar ones in Dubai and Saudi Arabia. For these presentations, we released a limited collection consisting of sales hits of the previous collection - this is a jumpsuit with a transparent dress, but with new prints. At that time I was already sold in Dubai at the Sauce Shop showroom. After all the presentations, I concluded that it’s much more fruitful to work with buyers, rather than trusting other people. I’ve originally developed my strategy and want to continue it and keep everything under control. Generally, the best Wizard at this time sales -. Tumblr Tumblr and clients, such as Susie Bubble I have an assistant, which corresponds with potential buyers, and we send out orders by mail to them, "- tells us about his experience Lesya Paramonov. |
GOSH RUBCHINSKY:
Dover Street Market, LN-CC and Opening Ceremony
At the beginning of his career, Gosh Rubchinsky wanted his collections to be sold throughout Russia. Since then, the designer's strategy has changed: now his clothes can be found in the Moscow concept store Kuznetsky Most 20, St. Petersburg Daynight and in Yekaterinburg. But with the West, to the exit to which the designer did not aspire, things are different. The Rubmezinsky collection is helped by the Comme des Garçons company, and this is already why it is sold at the Dover Street Market (Rei Kawakubo personally helped him arrange the corner). Plus, now his things are easier to buy for residents of Europe and the United States, where he sends packages to Opening Ceremony, than for residents of a Russian city. The rest of the designer’s sales points are also impressive: they exist in China and in France. |
MARIA BEH:
America and Canada
The peculiarities of the American market are explained to us by investor and consultant Yana Buchko, who introduced the Bevza brand to him: “The American buyer is very demanding, always wants him to“ all the ingredients of the dish served on different plates ”, and the buyer in America is more conservative, he needs the thing was in the feast and in the world. America is cool because different states are very different from each other, sometimes it becomes a big surprise, why and where they want to buy your collection. Of course, Americans like practical things more, so if it’s not was going tons of concept store, they will approach a collection in which more models of jersey fabrics or practical connections, such as silk and jersey. " Apparently, these requirements are not satisfied by the most replicated, but strong designer from Ukraine - Maria Bekh. It is sold in Blans and Olivia in California and even in the Secret Location in Vancouver. |
JULIA PASCAL:
Luisa Via Roma (Florence) and White Gallery (Rome)
Julia Pascal participates in Mercedes-Benz Kiev Fashion Days. After the Fashion Week, organized by Daria Shapovalova, she was noticed by buyers of Luisa Via Roma, one of the largest online stores. Then attention to Paskal drew the attention of the Roman White Gallery, which also presents Carven, Mugler and Versace. "With all the buyers with whom we cooperate today, I met on the backstage after my shows in the MBKFD. If you can’t fulfill the conditions of such large purchasers, they simply will not cooperate with you. necessary for export, "says Julia Pascal, adding that after a successful start of sales abroad in your homeland, you are beginning to be perceived as a designer, and not as a local designer. |