Death to her: heroes of the past in fragrances
Beauty Editor Arseny Zagulyaev - about the fragrances of the name Sex Pistols, Marilyn Monroe and Dygileva.
Sergey Dyagilev
In September, the fragrance comes out, which you should definitely pay attention to. Unusual customer: not a fashion house, but a museum. London Victoria and Albert Museum. Famous artist: Roha Dove, one of the most famous and authoritative experts in the field of perfumery, the founder of the London perfumery attraction - The Roja Dove Haute Perfumery salon on the sixth floor of Harrod's. The fragrance was created for the opening of the exhibition Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes 1909-1929, which will be held on September 25. He is dedicated, naturally, to her main character. Named simply Diaghilev.
A reasonable fear arises: what will this Diaghilev project evolve into? Will he go to the perfumery panopticon, to the recent fragrances of the 2010 World Cup or the city of Las Vegas?
Probably not. The flavor has intrigue. Having decided not to engage in impressionism and not to transmit the language of the "head", "heart" and "base" to the mysterious Russian soul, but to use Diaghilev as a good reason to present his interpretation of chypre. Here it will be interesting to evaluate.
In this case, the museum workers in the official release draw a parallel between their collaboration with the perfume wizard and past retrospectives of Vivienne Westwood and Sir Paul Smith. Thus, the fragrance must be perceived not only in addition to the exhibition, but also as an independent art object.
An association with the aroma of Sillage de la Reine arises in memory. It was five years ago. Francis Kürkkjan then came up with the idea to recreate the spirits of Marie Antoinette by reading the book of the historian Elizabeth de Fedo A Scented Palace: Marie Antoinette's Perfumer, a secret story about the court perfumer of the queen. The premiere of the fragrance took place at a private party in Versailles. Initially, the bottle cost about 2.5 thousand dollars. A year later, he became more accessible and sold through the website of the Palace of Versailles.
Returning to Diaghilev, it is important to note that the fragrance will be a vivid example of the trend of the last two years: the fashion for the heroes of yesterday has appeared in perfumery. New fragrances are dedicated to them, old ones are being revived for their sake, they are made faces of advertising campaigns.
Eau Sauvage campaign in 2010
Dior and Alain Delon
Indicative of the step Parfums Christian Dior. In the summer, updated versions of Eau Sauvage and Eau Sauvage Extreme came out. It was possible to find a young face for flavor. (Recall Miss Dior Cherie with Marina Lynchuk - Sofia Coppola’s directorial debut.) And it doesn't matter that one thing is a cheerful girlish scent, and the other is one of the best flavors of the twentieth century, which changed the development vector of perfumery and for which Rene Gruot painted Posters included in the history of fashionable illustration. It is possible to find a young French actor - there are suitable faces. Or not quite young. Let's say Vincent Cassel is paired up to the face of the autumn Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle Monica Bellucci. What you do not "sovazh" - savage, that is?
Posters Rene Gruot for Eau Sauvage
However, they acted outside the box and, admittedly, very gracefully: they took a photo of Alain Delon, made in Saint-Tropez in the year of the launch of the original Eau Sauvage. That is, 54 years ago. It is noteworthy that the original photo of Jean-Francois Perier shot on color film, but for the campaign the picture was transferred to B / W. Probably for greater vintage and expressiveness. For the video used footage Delon from the "Pool" in 1969. At the same time, at the presentations of the fragrance they do not just put up a portrait and play a roller. Grandpa drives himself. In April, he was in Moscow: went to the stage of the Maly Theater and dined at the Bolshoi Restaurant.
Campaign Paris Hilton Tease
Paris and Marilyn
Perhaps even more curious example referring to the past gave Paris Hilton. She already has a solid partnership with a dozen perfumes. Most often, each next one is dedicated either to herself (Just Me, Heiress, etc.), or to fairy-tale heroes. The muse of her new aroma Tease was Marilyn Monroe. Unlike Dior, Paris did not take the old photos of her idol, but she herself appeared in her image - she curled her hair and brought blondness to perhydrolism.
Sex Pistols
On July 12, sales of the Le Parfum de Sex Pistols by L'Etat Libre d'Orange began in the French network Sephora. The emphasis is, obviously, in French, on the last syllable, so read "Sex Pistoles." Involuntarily hold your breath, fearing what punk perfume smells like at you. It seems everything is decent, even bourgeois. Soon on the shelves of the same Sephora will load fresh bottles of Le Parfum de Josephine Baker.
Creed windsor
Creed and Edward VIII
Last year, there are also examples of retro trends. House Creed restored the fragrance, which was prepared in 1936 for the accession to the throne of Edward VIII. At that time, remembering the reputation of the young prince as a trendsetter and dandy, perfumers did their best. It was decided to collect the ingredients in the composition of the whole "empire, over which the sun does not set." Thus, an unusual Windsor cocktail was made from pine, lime, rose, cedar, eucalyptus and gin. The name comes from the fact that Edward, as you know, stayed king for a short time, abdicated the throne in favor of his brother and became the Duke of Windsor.
Greed by Francesco Vezzoli
Francesco Vazzoli and Marcel Duchamp
In consonance with Creed, the artist Francesco Vazzoli called his perfumery project-hoax, who became famous for his remake of Tinto Brass in Caligula in Versace scenery. In February 2009, in the Roman department of the Gagosian gallery, his exhibition was held, at which the main exhibit was a bottle of Greed, a fragrance that does not exist in nature. Vezzoli explicitly quotes Duchamp. Back in 1921, he, together with Man Ray, came up with a new art object - a certain Belle Haleine fragrance: Eau de Voilette. The provocateurs took a bottle of the real fragrance Un air embaume from Rigaud and pasted their label on it.
Marcel Duchamp in the form of Rroz Selyavi (1921). Photographer Man Ray
"Face" was Duchamp himself, who renamed himself Rroz Selyavi and appeared in front of the lens Man Ray in a flirty hat, a dress with ruffles and eyes languidly. The unique bottle has been preserved to this day. It was bought by Yves Saint Laurent. After the death of the couturier, the art object was put up for auction at Christie's auction house in February 2009. Vezzoli was not only photographed himself in a meyk under Duchane, but also came up with advertising posters with black and white photos of modernist women’s artists (the most spectacular were Tamara de Lempitska and Eva Hesse who wept), and also ordered a commercial of Greed with Roman Polanski Natalie Portman and Michelle Williams.
Do all these examples mean that the vector of perfumery is now a thing of the past and that perfumery is becoming a dead poet's society? Of course not. Nowadays, living, living and active celebrities both released their own personalized lines of fragrances and continue to do so. To prove this, I’ll just give a list of those who have already released or still come out with new products this year: Jennifer Aniston, Mary J. Blige, Beckham spouses, Mariah Kerry, Kate Moss, Jennifer Lopez, Sarah Jessica Parker, Jessica Simpson, Bruce Willis ...
The thing is that now there are so many aromas produced and they appear so often that each of them needs its own original presentation. So, for all the place there. The fragrance from the modern star is thought of as a blockbuster film. And the fragrance from the hero of yesterday’s perfumes is about the same as biopic for cinema.
When the next perfume or cream presentation is being held, the presenter says "Dear Ladies ...", looks around the room, pauses and adds with surprise: "... and Gentleman". The only gentleman in the company of beauty editors, as a rule, is Arseny Zagulyaev from Fashion Collection magazine. |