Cosmetic diet: Why it's time to abandon multistage care

Text: Daria Burkova

Worldwide demand for Korean cosmetics continues to grow, and instructions for ordering the application of ten funds breed at different sites, like puddles this summer. Meanwhile, the residents of Korea themselves, in spite of the fashion of recent years, are now striving to reduce the amount of face care products, taking care of the skin lipid barrier. In most cases, the seven steps of their ten-step care is the application of a moisturizing tonic in seven layers with patting movements. Such a system is called "7 skin method". Ironically, “skin” in Korean means “toner”.

What can be dangerous is the use of a large amount of funds

The entire multistage Korean care, which includes several stages of cleansing, applying toners, essences, ampoules, lotions, serums, emulsions, creams, oils and masks, is built on a sequential increase in the molecular weight of the products. In cosmetology, such a phenomenon as the “500 Dalton rule” is well known, according to which particles with an atomic weight of more than 500 Da cannot penetrate the skin without additional help.

There are very few low molecular weight ingredients, and they are part of the first stages of Korean care: glycolic acid (76 Da), niacinamide (137 Yes), caffeine (194 Yes), resveratrol (228 Yes), retinol (287 Yes ) and tocopherol (430 Da). Also included are some forms of vitamin C and many peptides. All other ingredients are very hard to get into the skin without additional conductive substances and transport systems. Therefore, high molecular weight oils, collagen, snail mucin and hyaluronic acid (and even the lowest molecular weight hyaluronic acid is too heavy for our skin, except for cross-polymers, which are rarely found in cosmetics in the free market) are always part of the final stages of Korean care. .

"Most cosmetic preparations contain enhancers - they contribute to the delivery of active ingredients to the skin, but at the same time violate the protective properties of the skin," says Elena Pasternak, head of the medical department of the Sesderma representative office in Russia.

In addition to enhancers and a large number of products, the skin itself can also trigger skin sensitivity. Alas, only people with the formation of a chemist can choose the right ten or more means in which no ingredient conflicts with each other. Even if you don’t apply glycolic acid, retinol, vitamin C and niacinamide in layers, it is almost impossible to calculate all the risks that relate to auxiliary ingredients. As a result, despite seemingly great efforts to strengthen the protective barrier of the skin by applying a large amount of products, we, on the contrary, destroy it and provoke an increased sensitivity of the skin according to the classical scheme "we wanted the best - it turned out as always."

Why today is taken to reduce the stages of care

“Sensitivity, or reactivity, of the skin is associated with a violation of the epidermal barrier. On the one hand, we try to restore it using several means at the same time, and on the other hand, we can increase the reactivity of the skin due to improperly chosen products,” adds Pasternak. We think it will not surprise anyone that many Korean cosmetics are being developed taking into account the characteristics of sensitive skin. The tradition to apply a large amount of funds in layers is largely due to the fact that the skin of Koreans poorly retains moisture - that is why hyaluronic acid, snail mucin and aloe gel, which are able to hold water, are so popular.

European skin, of course, is different from the Korean. It is less dense and is protected by a thinner lipid layer, but at the same time it retains moisture better. Of course, the very same “7 skin method” with the use of a light moisturizing tonic can hardly harm anyone, but the subsequent application of several lotions, serums, creams and masks often negatively affects even Asian skin. “In Korea, there is a very high percentage of people with sensitive skin that is adversely affected by the environment, namely fine dust. Many consumers are now inclined to more gentle skin care and use of products with ingredients that are safe for sensitive skin,” says Kelly Choi, a Korean expert. of the brand. - The tendency to the so-called cosmetic diet is very noticeable in the country, when people use fewer steps in daily skin care and prefer multi-functional products. T for one time only ampoule or lotion, and all steps care combined with the same ingredients and functions. "

Do not forget that the 500 Dalton - is the permeability of healthy skin. If the lipid barrier is disturbed, undesirable substances (for example, cream preservatives) can penetrate into the epidermis, which will aggravate the situation and may even lead to atopy. "If a large number of different products are regularly applied to the skin, it can really lead to the development of skin hypersensitivity," said Tatiana Al Sabunchi, Ph.D., dermatologist, cosmetologist, and chief physician of the Tori cosmetology center. - The fact is that the resulting a layer of caring means creates a film, an extra weight, interferes with the daily exfoliation of cells and clogs the pores. As a result, over time, the skin becomes more sensitive to any applied means. "

What to do if the skin has already become sensitive

If the skin has already become sensitive, then half measures can not solve the problem. No matter how you like all your twenty products for daily care, you will have to revise it in the direction of reducing the number of products. With a sharp reaction, it is better to become a supporter of beauty and minimalism. With any type of skin, oiliness or even the presence of rashes, sensitivity is the primary problem, therefore, when choosing a remedy, one should start off from it.

The main thing you need to do when you have already removed the excess from care is to restore the skin lipid barrier. For this cosmetologists advise to use cosmetics with fatty oils (for example, avocado) and ceramides. The simplest and fastest way to restore the skin barrier to a healthy state is to use special regenerating creams that are easy to find in the pharmacy and on the store shelf by the presence of the word "cica" in the title. Such medicinal ointments are widely used in medicine and are effective in breaking the skin barrier of any nature, including burns. Also, cica-creams can be useful for reducing sensitivity after using peels and for shortening the rehabilitation period after laser and photo treatments. Cica-creams cover the skin with a thin breathable film and create comfortable conditions so that the skin can recover on its own as soon as possible. Of course, it is better not to use additional creams and night masks on top of revitalizing creams.

How to build skin care so that there are no such problems

No matter how much we would like to use all cosmetics in the world, cosmetologists agree that you need to select care, starting with the minimum amount of products, which, in turn, must fully fit your skin. Until this harmony is achieved, additional products should not be included in the daily schedule. "When choosing drugs, you need to focus on their quality and functional component (that is, on what specific problem the tool solves), and not on the number of cans on the shelf. The presence of an additional product in home care should be associated with a specific existing problem," says Tatiana Al Sabunchi - For example, at the first consultation of a patient, I recommend three drugs: cleanser, tonic and cream.Further, after a month, when the skin gets used to the chosen means, you can add to the care kit Din drug After another month -. once again complement the new line means, creating thus a unique set of products. "

The boring “washing-tonic-cream” scheme still doesn't sound so boring in 2017. Modern cosmetics often combines several different functions, while the ingredients are chosen so that by default they do not conflict with each other. Another way to brighten up beauty weekdays is to choose all products from the same line. Of course, provided that it suits you perfectly. For Western brands, this is still a rarity, but in the assortment of Asian brands one can often find a set of ten to fifteen products in one range. Do not forget about special care.

“For deep cleansing, you can choose delicate scrubs or acid peels. For sensitive skin, almond and lactic acids are better suited,” says Elena Pasternak. “If you use tissue or propylene masks that do not wash off, then this product will replace serum. Additional application after the mask is not required. The skin works like a sea sponge - it cannot absorb more than it needs. Excess cosmetic products will remain on the surface of the skin and create an airtight film. y "

Photo: RivGosh, Comfort Zone, Chanel, Elise, Ile de Beaute (1, 2), Patyka, Debenhams, Sesderma, Lamoda, Amore Pacific, Pudra